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oil leaking from dip stick

p38js

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Location
York, PA.
I have an oil leak for sometime now and i'm starting to narrow it down, some back ground driver side valve cover starting leaking changed that with a cork gasket found that was not such a good idea. Removed that and changed with ultra gray rtv did this 3 times with the leak at the same place. Installed a new valve cover. leak still in the same place. Today installed a new dipstick tube and "O"ring still had leak in the same place. placed bag over dip stick itself and and drove truck for about 25 miles, bag was filled with oil. Does anybody have a suggestion as to what the next step would be I'm at a lose right know. Oil does not seem to leak when engine is at idle only seems to happen after it has been driven for a while.
 
Check to be sure the crankcase vent is not stopped up - in any case, the surfaces to be RTV'ed must be cleaned with lacquer thinner to remove all oily residue - Autozone engine cleaner and water flush works well, also, on the valve covers but not on the heads with valve covers off - so, it's lacquer thinner, not paint thinner, for good flush and quick evaporation without the cleaner leaving it's own residue
 
I installed a new cranck case vent can about 500 miles ago. Do you think that is not operating properly.
 
Could be the pre-screen inside the valvecover is plugged - un-vented crankcase will blow oil out the
point(s) of least resistance

Could also be something odd stuck in the dipstick tube at the pan, like from an earlier o'ring - must pre-lube the new o'ring for it to slip in and seal

"Repaired" valvecover (and other) leaks usually releak due to lack of proper initial cleaning - RTV of any color won't stick to oily surface(s), therefore no seal
 
I have heard nothing but great things from 'right stuff' gasket maker by Permatex. I used it on my recent oilpan and no leak. Not cheap, but somehow that makes you even more confident.
 
after more trouble shooting oil is only coming from the top of the dipstick the rest of the engine is clean as far as I can tell. Been all over it with a mirror and flash light.
 
More and more points to plugged crank vent system - engine hot and running, pull the tuna can from the turbo-side valvecover - should begin blowing oily vapors thru the hole in the 'cover - if not, call roto-rooter.................
 
performed the water in a jar test here are the results
1st run: had good vacuum 1to2 inches of water and bubbles devolped at 2500 rpm
2cd run: removed the screens from the passenger side valve cover same
results as the fisrt run.
3rd run: removed cdr valve no vacuum or bubbles all the way to red line.

Is this telling me I have a bad cdr valve or craked piston broken ring??:(:(:(
 
Bubbles indicate excessive crankcase pressure, usually from worn rings\cylinders - lots of bubbles would indicate broken piston(s)\ring(s)

CDR is just a low-vacuum regulator - the large size is due the large diaphragm required to activate under the way low levels of vacuum available in Diesel engine intake system - there's no way you can decrease blowby by removing the CDR, unless it is stopped up, and it's spring loaded contruction makes that physically impossible - the diaphragm is good, it's wide open - the diaphragm ruptures, it's wide open - only time it can close is during event of high vacuum, as with a wet air filter, or horribly plugged dry air filter - pull it off, take a deep breath or three, blow thru it from either direction, see whatcha got.............
 
Had to call in the big guns for this one after talking to Bill Heath, come to find out that my home made cold air box was the problem. Removed box and went back to stock setup all is well again. Can't hardly wait for is cold air box to come out.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Had to call in the big guns for this one after talking to Bill Heath, come to find out that my home made cold air box was the problem. Removed box and went back to stock setup all is well again. Can't hardly wait for is cold air box to come out.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

What happened, No flow?
 
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