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Oil filtration - Bypass system

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

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What is the consensus on a bypass system these days? I see Leroydiesel has (or maybe had) a centrifuge system, others have what looks to be a standard bypass with external filters - what is recommended? I'm tired of new oil being black.

I ran across these guys, too - they're just a few miles from me, as it turns out and I never knew it.

www.hotshotsecret.com

Universal Frantz Oil Filter System | Gas & Diesel Oil Filter

Install the Universal Frantz oil filter system to your vehicle today. This gas and diesel oil filter system is also great for home & RV standby generators.
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These were talked about on another thread due to their filter media being a toilet paper roll. I'm pretty sure it's different now, but I'm not certain.
 
Only way I am seeing to prevent new oil from instantly turning black is to drain the oil cooler along with sump.

In my experience, simple filtration (including bypass) does not prevent soot accumulation.

Will defer to Leroy and Will about how much centrifuge helps. Am not convinced that this will completely cure soot either though.

Seems the best thing for the stated goal (no soot) is gapless rings.

I saw that Chris had good experience with TriboDyn lowering soot, although do not remember whether he also installed gapless rings.


My personal preference remains to use bypass filters whenever possible even when the motor creates soot.
 
I have been using F2-2500 since almost new. I really notice a difference in the oil. It does get black, but when you rub between your fingers there is zero grit. Just feels like black honey. I get great UOAs as well.
Downside is proprietary filters. And they are not cheap...

I would love to try a Centrifuge system, but don't really want to pay another $500 or so just to try it.
 
I'm kind of with you.. I'd love to find a way to not have to change the oil so often. With as many miles as I rack up on my truck I'm changing it constantly. Of course I just run rotella 15w 40 do cost isn't too bad. Once I get some of the leaks fixed I'd like to run a better oil considering the mileage it has on it, but if it's going to turn to pure soot every other week that's going to cost a fortune
 
FWIW, based on UOA, I could never get over 10K in the 6.5 as it was always something other than soot that forced an oil change.

I have run synthetic oil for 50K miles in a direct injection diesel. Replaced ~1 - 2 quarts every 5K miles from evaporation and primary filter change. Changed the bypass at 20K intervals. Stuff got black, but UOA remained good.
 
I change my oil once a year. Usually around July 1. Regardless of miles. I usually do 11- 15k per year.
In fact I do all preventive maintenance once yearly. I rotate tires every 7500k.
I havevhad great luck with my bypass oil setup. Except the hose ends keep rotting away from road salt. So I have changed hoses a few times.
 
They work even on a tired ol 6.5 and having it is better than not. But how far down it filters is the question. No oil driven centrifuge can hit 1 micron under 90 psi that I heard of.
yes a drive motor gets it there. That's why I am thinking doing a 120v plug in the house unit and just 2 hoses with hydraulic quick disconnects.
Then I could do multiple vehicles and even black diesel if need later if prices get stupid after the shipping requirements go ulsd world wide.

Having some form of secondary filtering is always better than not. cost/ reward is the issue.
 
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