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Oil cooler lines

figment

figment

A junkie for the purr of a 6.5L
Messages
113
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1
Location
Canadian prairies
Well the Tahoe spewed oil all over the ground as of 20 minutes ago coming from the oil filter and cooler line area, waiting for tow. I've spent that time looking for the remedy for this problem and can't find it using the search on this forum, can someone point me in the right direction.
 
greengreer said:
http://www.pmdcable.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=6

I am about to replace mine with this setup, hopefully before I too am waiting on a tow (or worse).

Anyone have any experience with this kit. There are several vendors, lubrication specialists etc, but he seems to have the best price.

Good luck with the tahoe
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Got it on my truck.

No issues.

Just be careful running the lines not to "kink" them. Keep your loops large.

They're teflon lines and, if kinked, may not give you the service life you expect from them.

I build the same types of lines for aircraft at work.

Just the nature of the beast.
 
How long without oil pressure and what RPM and load? You may need to overhaul the engine before replacing the oil cooler and lines. You don't want trash from scored bearings being the first thing to ruin an unflushable "new" oil cooler.

I would bypass the oil cooler lines with a heater hose and test run the engine then sample the filter for debris.

X2 on PMD cable's kit being outstanding- Have it on the burb.

Although GM's hoses on my 1993 have improved enough to get 50K of service over, 3 engines, and 1 truck... But they still started leaking a warning of failure.
 
WarWagon said:
How long without oil pressure and what RPM and load? You may need to overhaul the engine before replacing the oil cooler and lines. You don't want trash from scored bearings being the first thing to ruin an unflushable "new" oil cooler.

I would bypass the oil cooler lines with a heater hose and test run the engine then sample the filter for debris.

X2 on PMD cable's kit being outstanding- Have it on the burb.


Although GM's hoses on my 1993 have improved enough to get 50K of service over, 3 engines, and 1 truck... But they still started leaking a warning of failure.
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I was fueling up at the station when it blew out, I noticed oil spray on the fresh snow behind the Tahoe. There was about a quart laying under the engine. Just before I shut it down the oil gauge was still pulsing. I'll drop the oil to see how much is left, I think the bearings will be ok, but ya I'll have the oil looked at to see if there was any internal damage. No noticeable leaks for a warning, meaning no puddles on the driveway before hand. I was about to take a 30 min. trip down the highway so I'm glad I was stopped and it was at idle.
 
figment said:
Well the Tahoe spewed oil all over the ground as of 20 minutes ago coming from the oil filter and cooler line area, waiting for tow. I've spent that time looking for the remedy for this problem and can't find it using the search on this forum, can someone point me in the right direction.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys for the referals.
Figment, I have them in stock. Check out the web site and see the options. You can save some money by ordering just the hose kit if you want to reuse your stock cooler. I also use a real nice 45* swivle instead of a rigid one and machine my own fittings for the cooler.
 
Well I crawled underneath today and to my surprise this is what I found.

What's wrong with this pic.?
GetAttachment.jpg

What I saw when I rolled it over!
GetAttachment3.jpg


The source of the leak.
GetAttachment2.jpg Yes, that's the hole through the oil filter.....


One of the 2 owners before me already had problems with the oil cooler lines, and cut them off and installed plugs into the block, but left the cooler in place.

I run Royal Purple engine oil all the time, But with this unexpected oil change I'm running their engine break in oil just incase anything was running dry.
 
Wow, that's a strange one. Your the second guy in like the last 2 months to have that happen. Deffinately get the oil cooler kit from leroy once you know everything is good and get the oil cooler replaced. And buy a new strap and bolt kit for that front joint. Don't bother with just the bolts, those straps do stretch over time and are supposed to be replaced any time they are removed. Your local parts store should have the kits in stock.
 
Crankme69 said:
WOW you might wanna go play the LOTTO!

Though you already may have used all yr luck up already...?

Yipes did you get lucky in more ways then ONE!
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A real good illustration of the fine line between lucky and unlucky. You seem to have been a gnat's ass from crossing over to the 'UN' side.
 
I always use Blue Locktite on the Ujoint strap bolts, on the race cars we safety wire them, when you are tightening them don't be afraid to put a good pull on the wrench
 
you need to hook the cooler back up. oil will get too hot and cause probs down the line.
 
racedaymechanic said:
I always use Blue Locktite on the Ujoint strap bolts, on the race cars we safety wire them, when you are tightening them don't be afraid to put a good pull on the wrench
Click to expand...
I did.


1995yukon65 said:
Wow, that's a strange one. Your the second guy in like the last 2 months to have that happen. Deffinately get the oil cooler kit from leroy once you know everything is good and get the oil cooler replaced. And buy a new strap and bolt kit for that front joint. Don't bother with just the bolts, those straps do stretch over time and are supposed to be replaced any time they are removed. Your local parts store should have the kits in stock.
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I've bin working on my '51 changing all of the U-joints and had an extra set on hand already. But thanx anyway.

deejaaa said:
you need to hook the cooler back up. oil will get too hot and cause probs down the line.
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I would but this thing doesn't do any towing and no stop and go traffic at all, and plus I run nothing but full synthetic oils.

Crankme69 said:
WOW you might wanna go play the LOTTO!

Though you already may have used all yr luck up already...?

Yipes did you get lucky in more ways then ONE!
Click to expand...

Lucky is right, just last week a friend of mine used a cutting torch to remove the old U-joints on his truck and nicked the one side of the yoke and thought nothing of it put in the new U-joint, and didn't make it 15 miles when the front driveshaft fell out bounced off the road ripped the oil filter open and went right through the converter. Both engine and tranny are toast.
 
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Just as a historical point. The Olds diesels had the same oil line crack and catastrophic leak problem the 6.5 trucks do. Many had the cooler holes on the block plugged as a "fix". These engines didn't live long without a cooler. Duh huh, if GM thought they could keep the cost of a cooler in their pocket with no ill effects til the warranty was out hey would have. I have seen on the Olds if you don't route and attach the lines (oil and trans) with the brackets and rubber isolators exactly the way the factory did it they will crack in few thousand miles. Its a sympathetic vibration thing, I believe. The Olds didn't even have a oil pressure gauge. :eek:
 
L98TPI said:
Just as a historical point. The Olds diesels had the same oil line crack and catastrophic leak problem the 6.5 trucks do. Many had the cooler holes on the block plugged as a "fix". These engines didn't live long without a cooler. Duh huh, if GM thought they could keep the cost of a cooler in their pocket with no ill effects til the warranty was out hey would have. I have seen on the Olds if you don't route and attach the lines (oil and trans) with the brackets and rubber isolators exactly the way the factory did it they will crack in few thousand miles. Its a sympathetic vibration thing, I believe. The Olds didn't even have a oil pressure gauge. :eek:
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Oils 35 yrs. ago were not as advanced as the full synthetics of now days that can take extreme heat that regular oils can't plus the diesel fuels now days are more refined and cleaner burning, and bearing manufactures are always making advances in design to make them last as long as possible with the full synthetics and products like Purple ice, and Z-max also help. So there are a lot of factor's that have changed in the last 30-35 yrs. As far as oil lines and fuel lines go advances are also taking place to last as long as possible with the drying effects of oils, uv's and the ethanol fuels, such as teflon and other synthetic rubbers. It also helps when you running a aluminum radiator and cooler thermostat's and Purple Ice antifreeze treatment. I've used these product's out there with the attitude they can't hurt. Since I bought this Diesel engines it not only run's quieter to the point that my neighbors have commented how quiet it is when I leave it to warm up at idle first thing in the morning, even on hi idle it's quieter than my 440 BB Chrysler. Also it runs smoother in all situations I've got the clacking down to a minimum and the oil samples have come back cleaner than the first sample when I first bought it. To top it all off my fuel milage is a little better than average now that I've changed all the fluids to synthetic's.
 
After just breaking and by passing my oil cooler I will report the following.

I run Rotella T6, 5/40 synthetic. Normal idle oil pressure at full operating temp and 80F to 90F weather is 35 to 40 psi. 1800 rpm pressure is 60 to 65 psi.

In 40F to 50F weather, after reaching operating temperature: Oil pressure dropped 10 to 15 psi below normal operating pressures while the oil cooler was bypassed. I saw idle pressures just above 20psi and max pressure below 50psi.

I would not run the 6.5 with a bypassed oil cooler any longer absolutely required!

But of course, its your motor and your money.

6.5 Carnage

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