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o2 sensor

Rodd

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Location
Antelope, CA
I know this doesn't really belong here but since we can all be inovative sometimes I was hoping to get some advise.

I am trying to replace an o2 sensor in my father's 2001 S10 pickup. The upstream. The stupid thing is frozen on there. I have tried penetrating oil, close ended and open ended wrenches, vice grips (stripped them out), and finally a small pipe wrench. Nothing seems to work. It is a 4 banger w/ tight quarters. I am going at it from underneith the truck. It is on the exhaust manifold/header on the driver side just above the downpipe. I removed the down pipe but can't get anything to work I was hoping one of the great minds hear would have some insight.

Thanks!
 
I have done a few on different vehicles. Usually easier when engine has just been run and pipe is hot. Or put some heat on it. Or when pipe is cold put some WD40 on a rag and wrap the rag around and leave overnight.
 
What i did on mine is start to pre treat (sorry that can't be done now) it about a week or two before working on it. I use PB Blaster. Pretty potent stuff, as it stinks like heck, but mine broke loose easy as pie, and i suspect it was the original.

Good luck!
 
It's tight up in there. I'm not sure. I don't want to heat up the manifold and the sensor, then I am looking for troubles.

So your worried about heating parts that are made to deal with high heat???? Also the only part that could be damaged is going to be replaced so it wouldn't matter if it was destroyed by the heating. Try a little heat and you'll be suprised by the results.
 
They also sell a o2 sensor socket that has accomodation for the wires, perhaps try one of those for a perfect fit, then if pipe-wrench doesn't work try heat.

Also, try cracking it a c-hair tight before cracking it loose. See if that helps.
 
Best bet at this juncture is to drop the exhaust pipe from the manifold, get the perp down where you can deal with it: wearing safety shield or\and safety glasses (both is best!), heat it cherry red to bust-up the accumulated dirt\rust in the threads, work it out with a pipe wrench, being careful not to twist the bung outta the sometimes-thin down-pipe - run the replacement (hopefully new) in with copper-coted threads, reconnect, and yer good to go - oh, and don't fergit to reattach the down-pipe B4 you do go, or it's all in vain....................

p.s.
Dunno why you'da thunk guys with engines on which O2 sensor is a dirty word would know anything about'em, or their inherent hassles, eh............

p.p.s.
Sometimes a 1/2" impact wrench with new 6pt impact socket will spin 'at sucker right out - give'er a whirl...........
 
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So your worried about heating parts that are made to deal with high heat???? Also the only part that could be damaged is going to be replaced so it wouldn't matter if it was destroyed by the heating. Try a little heat and you'll be suprised by the results.

I was thinking that if both were hot the threads would be prone to stripping.
 
Best bet at this juncture is to drop the exhaust pipe from the manifold, get the perp down where you can deal with it: wearing safety shield or\and safety glasses (both is best!), heat it cherry red to bust-up the accumulated dirt\rust in the threads, work it out with a pipe wrench, being careful not to twist the bung outta the sometimes-thin down-pipe - run the replacement (hopefully new) in with copper-coted threads, reconnect, and yer good to go - oh, and don't fergit to reattach the down-pipe B4 you do go, or it's all in vain....................

p.s.
Dunno why you'da thunk guys with engines on which O2 sensor is a dirty word would know anything about'em, or their inherent hassles, eh............

p.p.s.
Sometimes a 1/2" impact wrench with new 6pt impact socket will spin 'at sucker right out - give'er a whirl...........

I did drop the down pipe. It is on the header just above where the down pipe connects. Unfortunately the oil fill tub is about 1/4 inch from the top of the o2 sensor so I can't get a socket on it. Even if I could I wouldn't be able to get a ratchet or impact wrench on it. I tried to get my sawzall up there to cut it off but I didn't have enought room.
 
In that event, you will likely need to drop the exhaust header to prevent damage to yourself and the engine - header-replacement is known to be one of the options in replacing that primary O2 sensor - run the engine up to operating temp, use gloves and 6pt sockets to remove the fasteners - 12pt sockets usually round-off the hex heads
 
In that event, you will likely need to drop the exhaust header to prevent damage to yourself and the engine - header-replacement is known to be one of the options in replacing that primary O2 sensor - run the engine up to operating temp, use gloves and 6pt sockets to remove the fasteners - 12pt sockets usually round-off the hex heads

I was looking at removing the header but I would have to remove the brake master cylinder and the ac compressor. It is very tight in there. I can get a torch up to the o2 sensor from the undernieth the car so I will give that a shot first.
 
Ok - have a 6pt impact socket and your breaker-bar handy - heat the plug, immediately use the socket\bar to attempt to break the rusted threads while heated - you can break-off and remove the ceramic part with the wire lead to make the enterprise go somewhat smoother - don't fergit yer safety glasses, here: ceramic\glass shards cannot be easily seen, nor removed with a magnet, from either eyeball............
 
I got it. Heated it for about 3 minutes w/ the torch and used the pipe wrench to break it loose. I should have bought the torch last night when I was at the partstore. It would have saved me time this morning.

Thanks again for the help guys!
 
good deal!



Make sure to get anti-seize on the new one w/o getting it on the tip.

Also, what brand of O2 sensor did you use?
 
good deal!



Make sure to get anti-seize on the new one w/o getting it on the tip.

Also, what brand of O2 sensor did you use?

It was one from Kragen/o'reilies. It was a bosch oem style. It actually came w/ anti sieze already on the threads.
 
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