PawPawtruck01
Member
Ok. Yes, the Lb7's are under the covers. I have kept a cloooose eye on the engine oil twice a day for 'making oil" where the fuel would be going into the head and to the engine oil. So far, so good. No fuel in oil at all.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
No Throttle Response
- Thread starter Flyboy207
- Start date
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I've been getting an average of 14 on mine. mot the best. I think Marty get up around 18 or so. I love the clatter they make, there almost as loud as an old 12 valve Cummins if there timed with a little advance. Mine isn't timed much, still within factory spec, but I have to shut it down in the drive though ordering food LOL. not good when you have a weak starter HAHA. I spent the extra for a power master gear reduction starter now it sounds like a Dodge cranking and barely have to hit the key!
PawPawtruck01
Member
Yes, they DO have a "clatter" but it sounds so good....
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Love that sound and also the sound of the turbo along with the unrestricted exhaust to accompany it.
Its like moooozik.
PawPawtruck01
Member
Oooh yeaaah!Love that sound and also the sound of the turbo along with the unrestricted exhaust to accompany it.
Its like moooozik.
PawPawtruck01
Member
Ok..update..worked half the day, cane home had an idea. There are 3 wires to BARO sensor..found what I think is the 5 voltage hot, and the ground, and I spliced a long piece of wire into the 3rd wire "redish color" and put a toggle switch on that wire to cut the signal, or so I thought. Plugged it back up, switch was on, so it was normal. Went for a spin..boost gauge on monitor worked, and the baro sensor worked as well...but, it again, at not even a quarter throttle, was demanding 19k to 21k rail pressure, gagged on it, and poof, limp mode, threw the P0093 code....reset everything, turned the switch off, but, both gauges still worked lol..went for another spin, finally, the desired rail pressure was matching my placement on the throttle! 5k, 10k, 15k, 18 then 21.5 to 22k at WOT. NO CODES, BOTH GAUGES STILL WORKED CORRECTLY, TRUCK RAN LIKE A STRIPPED APE....I'm stumped lol. Just PLUM stumped. But, it's a good thing I reckon. I can haul my equipment now without reseting codes every 30 seconds lol. No smoke, haze, bad sounds etc, and much lower EGT...go figure lol.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Post a pic of what you did and what pins you used to the switch. I am curious but me is thinking you bypassed something or provided a ground to the system where it wasn't getting when it should have been?
PawPawtruck01
Member
I was thinking the wire I spliced would be the signal wire, but, with switch on or off the gauge still works and no codes....only different is the the rail pressure acts right. I'll go get some pics now. Thanks.
PawPawtruck01
Member
Ok. I indone my previous work to show what wires, color etc. Switch broke also while disassembly lol, so I'm using connectors till I get another. Anyway, I just spliced that wire, made it longer where the sensor could stay plugged in, and I had the ability to break the circuit of that wire only. When it is not plugged, truck runs like a new one. When plugged in, as in "normal" is when it throws the P0093 code and demands too much rail pressure, too soon. Go figure lol.
Attachments
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Yeah I think that's the +5v feed line you spliced into. maybe this is that programming issue they were talking about with the ECM?
I noticed what looks like some ground leads with wires bare smashed under a bolt. what is that in the pic I circled?
I noticed what looks like some ground leads with wires bare smashed under a bolt. what is that in the pic I circled?
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I would say if this inline switch works and doesn't throw a code. I would run it for a bit and see what it does. something you might do too is connect in a mechanical boost gauge too just to make sure your not gonna over boost too much. on our IDI's too much boost can lift heads and blow head gaskets unless we have upgraded to head studs and things to keep the engine held together LOL.
PawPawtruck01
Member
That is a spare "ground cable" I ran from battery to engine couple months ago when I started chasing this issue lol. I tried everything lol
PawPawtruck01
Member
Also, that wire I spliced into did not have any power on it at all. The white and black wire was the one showing 5.3 volts.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
ok so that was ether the signal or ground wire.
PawPawtruck01
Member
Not sure, all I know is even when that wire is disconnected, the baro sensor still reads, along with the map sensor reading the boost.
PawPawtruck01
Member
Update. I put this wire on a switch on the dash where I can switch it on, in normal mode, I'd somthimg was to go wonky. But I run it with the switch off, with the circuit of that one wire disconnected. Baro sensor still reads, 13.8 to 14, and boost signal still works. With it off, the desired rail pressure now comes up gradually as I get into the throttle, instead of demanding 20 to 21k at only quarter throttle. Blows my mind, how and why this "fixed" it, but considering all I been thru last 8 weeks, I'll take it! Lol. Trucks runs great. It isn't de fueling, no codes, no lights etc. I appreciate all yalls help also. Much respect.
