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No start then it started???

Bigburban

Bigburban

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Stop by walmart ran in got a few things ...........when I came out it wouldn't start Turned over like it always does nice and fast. Went home got another truck came back after 30 or so minutes and it fired up like nothing was wrong and no SES light.
Did this while not starting...Changed the pmd with a good one still no start so pmd good because it fired up when I went back to get it.
New glow plugs installed
pmd only a year old outside the engine bay
IP rebuilt with only 26,000 miles on it
Replaced the ops about 2000 miles ago
lift pump is working and good fuel flow and vibration when engine running
Possible I got a bad ops?
 
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I've been having the same problem with a 96 burban after load testing the batteries and cleaning every ground twice I'm thinking ignition cylinder???
My question to you is what about the dash lights? on,off,or dim?
 
Dash lights seem fine no changes in brightness at all. It was weird like someone shut the fuel off and turned it on again in 40min???? I have replaced /cleaned every ground possible new batteries, heavy gauge alt. wire, napa heavy duty fuel relay (square one in the fuse box) all bought 5 months ago, it would turn over at good rpms just no fire. I did buy an ops 2 months ago from o'reilly's that was a Borg Warner anyone ever used one of their ops? Maybe a symptom of a fuel shut off solenoid? I have fuel and no air in the lines I replaced the return line with clear braided line so I could check. Maybe it just hickuped? I drove it home fine shut it off then fired it right up and let it idle for about 20 minutes with no problems.
 
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I have somewhat the same problem. It started like this and just got worse from there. Now it starts maybe half the time I try. And if it doesn't want to go, it won't go unless I wait at least 10 to 15 minutes. Then It's another flip of the coin. In the last week, it started cutting out randomly. like a hiccup. If the engine is running at over 1500 RPM, it just stumbles a bit ad recovers. If it's idling or running under 1500, it just quits, as will restart easy. If I stop the engine more than five minutes, it's another flip of the coin. I can be a half an hour rolling down the highway, then 15 minutes city driving, stop to pick up the kid at preschool, get back in and it won't start. Sit in the truck 15 minutes, and it will start. It does this hot, cold, plugged in or not.

Just like the OP, I have a remote mount PMD in the front bumper. Lift pump works, tested via water drain. WTS light operational i can even hear the glow controller clicking when it cycles)

Right now I strongly suspect a bad ground somewhere... But it's too cold outside to be playing with wires and ohmmeters.

I will be watching this thread with great interest.
 
Well it did it again! I have checked and double checked anything I can think of. Any help is needed can't figure this one out. Any one ever had a ecm go out? I am starting to think that may be the cause but I just don't know. I checked thinking it was the fuel shut of but getting plenty of fuel, not glow plug or ground related unless I missed something. Truck runs great no fish bite, stumble or any IP related problem. Took it out on the hwy just after it happened and drove it like a wild man and it ran great, boost good, lots of power. Made several stops along the way and it started fine every time. Please help if you can.
 
Thought of that to but why would it crank over so good? No dim or flickering lights. I am going to pull the cover off the steering column tomorrow what should I look for or how to test it?
 
I would do a simple test before you start replacing things. Do a voltage test on the fuel shutoff solenoid on your injection pump. The DS4 injection pump is "energize to run" -meaning voltage present at the solenoid = main fuel shutoff valve open, -unless you have a faulty solenoid valve of course. I would confirm that you don't possibly have a faulty fuel shutoff solenoid before you start changing out ignition switches and chasing electrical gremlins..-just a thought.

Fuel supply would be a good second check, -make absolutely sure that the lift pump is working, -and make sure the fuel filter isn't plugged and that you have adequate fuel coming out of the fuel-tee located near the thermostat housing (this test can be misleading if the problem is intermittent).
 
Checked all fuel supply and getting plenty of fuel. Possible intermitten problem with the lift pump? Sock good to go. Filter new. checked fuel shut off and it seems to function fine. Has not done it again so? Started fine in 10 degrees this morning! After checking everything I am leaning towards getting a new lift pump to see if that cures it. Found a air tex? Anyone use this kind? Should I stick with acdelco?
 
I'd check that lift pump before replacing unless you want to have a spare around.
I always stick with AC Delco Lift pumps except when in a bind.

Our 96 had very intermintent dieing and no start issues that were cured after we put in a new ignition switch.
The ignition switch didn't look bad when I tore it apart.
The 95 tahoe was fixed with an ignition switch but it was obviously bad when taken apart.
The 94 dually had oak leaves in the tank. Apparently sometimes just getting in and out of the truck would cause the fuel to slosh enough for the leaves to move off the sock and allow the vehicle to get fuel again.
I have had several bad fuel problems. Sometimes I couldn't tell anything by any other method than hooking a hose to the LP input and running from a can. Most times I just added what I hoped was good fuel. and more additive. Bad fuel doesn't always plug the filter.

I don't have a clue how several full sized oak leaves got in the tank but it may have had something to do with a certain 2 year old.

I
 
I would remove the Fuel/engine shut off solenoid and take the plunger out and reinstall it so that you know it cannot cut off fuel. Its not necessary. It spins off easy enough and the plunger slides right out after removing a snap ring. If you never have that problem again that was it. If that wasnt it you can put the plunger back in. It may cause a DTC13, but wont slow you down at all.
 
buddy said:
I would remove the Fuel/engine shut off solenoid and take the plunger out and reinstall it so that you know it cannot cut off fuel. Its not necessary. It spins off easy enough and the plunger slides right out after removing a snap ring. If you never have that problem again that was it. If that wasnt it you can put the plunger back in. It may cause a DTC13, but wont slow you down at all.
Click to expand...

Is there any possibility with engine run on doing that?
 
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