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No Start Help

Big T

Well-Known Member
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Location
Fullerton, CA
Towed my boat from Fullerton to Ventura this AM (100+ mi). While slowing for a stop with the engine at idle, it stuttered twice and threw a code (SES light came on). We continued on to the boat yard and shut it down there. After going over the boat, could not restart, even with jumpers. It was like it was not getting fuel. Occasionally it seemed like it would light, but never got there. Did not have code reader with me. Pull batteries as they're 4 years old and had been cranking slow of late. Rented a van to get back home to retrieve code reader, tools, new batteries.

Any ideas?
 
We did not make the return trip.

Batteries were Sears Die Hard and they had to recharge them before they could confirm their status. Both were dated 2/14 and One ended up being bad. Continuing the shit show, they did not have replacements. Would have to travel 25 miles in peak traffic to the next Sears that had them. That will happen tomorrow.

If I can get the guy to open his yard, I will go back to Ventura tomorrow with PMDs, batteries and code reader.
 
I have swapped pmds, and started chasing electrical only to find out later no fuel was getting to the ip. A simple gauge gives an instant go/nogo to swap a pmd on nostart or die.
Harbor freight sold a vacuum/ fuel pressure gauge for years used to be $4.99 that we installed in all the 6.5 fleet for a driver to know when it "acted funny" to look at. If it was over 1psi, they would move the pmd cable from one pmd to the other, and just notify us they did it. Never stop their route. We just swapped in the replacement pmd next oilchange.

Here is what harbor freight carries currently:http://m.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Vacuum+tester
Mounting a permanent fuel gauge is best.

Having a fuel pressure gauge tapped to input fuel of ip and 2 mounted pmds made the entire fleet go from headache to dream land. The only other thing that I say made a massive difference was a big red light on dash and a loud buzzer that turned on at 220f ect and wouldn't shut off until 205-210 range. If my wife drove my hummer, it would have them on there already too. I will add them while I do my other upgrades, because I know my son will talk me into barrowing the hummer soon.
 
I have swapped pmds, and started chasing electrical only to find out later no fuel was getting to the ip. A simple gauge gives an instant go/nogo to swap a pmd on nostart or die.
Harbor freight sold a vacuum/ fuel pressure gauge for years used to be $4.99 that we installed in all the 6.5 fleet for a driver to know when it "acted funny" to look at. If it was over 1psi, they would move the pmd cable from one pmd to the other, and just notify us they did it. Never stop their route. We just swapped in the replacement pmd next oilchange.

Here is what harbor freight carries currently:http://m.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Vacuum+tester
Mounting a permanent fuel gauge is best.

Having a fuel pressure gauge tapped to input fuel of ip and 2 mounted pmds made the entire fleet go from headache to dream land. The only other thing that I say made a massive difference was a big red light on dash and a loud buzzer that turned on at 220f ect and wouldn't shut off until 205-210 range. If my wife drove my hummer, it would have them on there already too. I will add them while I do my other upgrades, because I know my son will talk me into barrowing the hummer soon.

Got new battery and the HF fuel pressure pressure gauge, plus a spare Standyne PMD and long cord. Where does the fuel pressure gauge install?
 
Put new batteries in. No start. Plug in spare PMD and it started right away. Left it running for 10 minutes while I put stuff back together and it shut off. Now each time I try to crank it, it lights for a fraction of a second, then nothing.
 
It will start, run for a short period and shut off.

Plugged scanner in and get DTC 06. This is on the '99 with OBD II
 
What's your security light doing?

Security light has always been on with this Heath flashed ECM.

So I got it running and left it run for like 20 minutes. Thought I could try to make it home, but it died right outside the yard. Now I'm getting water in fuel light. Guess what, I drained diesel from the boat and filled up the Burb with it. Boat has 200 gallons in it, diluted red dye diesel. 2/3s was put in at $1.89 gallon highway diesel.

I left the truck there. I will rent a flat bed trailer and haul it home next weekend.
 
Bad fuel?

That's my assumption. I had siphoned it out of the boat directly into the truck. The boat has a Racor water separating filter, as it should. So undoubtedly some water got into the truck tank. It couldn't be a lot.

My plan is to suck the fuel out of the FFM with a turkey baster and replace the filter. I will then try to run out a couple gallons through the T-valve in the hopes of clearing it. Then try to see if it will run without stalling. If that fails, call AAA and get it towed home where I will work on draining the tank.
 
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