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no rear lights, I'm pulling out my hair

N

NintendoKD

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Location
29 palms, CA
I have no rear lights. I changed all relays and fuses, although none were bad, all had .02 ohms. and relays worked with a hot from the battery, and tested good. I have a feeling that some of my other problems may have a common denominator. at exactly 40 mph my rear abs light comes on, but goes away if driving under 40 for long enough. the volt indicator doesn't work on the dash, and the roof running lights do not work.:mad2: I have a metric crap ton of disconnected wires, and crap that I don't know what it is. I have an impulse trailer brake controller installed "I didn't do it" but I don't think that is the problem as it is only one wire going into the rear harness for trailer control.
pink in the diagram is for grounds, and the green highlight is for the voltage/charge indication on the cluster. the green X doesn't apply to diesel models I think.
IMG_1052[1].jpgIMG_1053[1].jpg
I am concentrating on ground "H" which is (behind bottom of right cowl panel) I have no idea where that is. anyone provide a picture of it?
 
Have you checked the plug in the back drivers side corner under the bed/lights area?

If it comes un-plugged nothing in the back will work.
 
yes, just checked it again, something interesting, I just checked the fuse, no7 and with it disconnected the illumination lamp stays on for left turn front. very slightly, but stays on. I have followed the wires from the back all the way to the front and checked the grounds, but still no dice, my money is on the multi function switch, but without a suitable replacement, I cannot be sure.
 
still no clue

I have a new MFS coming in to Autojunk tomorrow. I cut the black ground wire coming from he rear lights under the cab area. I pulled all the ground, all the way to the connector in the rear of the truck. there is another ground that y's into the one for the rear lights, and makes a bigger cable. this runs to the top of the rear tank. Ohm'd out this one cable shows resistance from it to ground when the chassis is touched, about 5 ohms. Why would they tie this into the rear lights? anyway, I'm going to ground it directly to chassis at both places, so there is no short for sure. to re-cap, I have no cab running lights "ones on the roof" no brake lights, no tail lights, no license plate lights, no blinkers, no flashers, no license plate lights. my underhood light also doesn't work even if a good bulb is put in. I have a consistent rear abs light come on at exactly 40 mph. I have no cruise control. I am PISSED!!!:mad2: I need to pick up a trailer tomorrow, so I can move, or else. I HAVE to pull everything out of storage and I have no way to do this. I do not have the time or money to take it to a mechanic, nor the time or money to get another truck. I am really freaking out here. Nothing should be this damned complicated. I rewire high tech radios for the military, WHY IS THIS SO DAMNED HARD!!!???:mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2:
 
picures

IMG_1057[1].jpgIMG_1058[1].jpg
the picture is of a wire that I found under the dash, it is a black wire that runs in the same harness as those running to the slip ring in the steering column. I don't know what it does, and can't find a connector where it should be. when I run it through the multimeter to chassis I get about 11.5vdc and a couple of milliamps. I also hear a popping noise, sounds like when you suck on a vacuum diaphragm and let it go, like a wooden spoon on tin type of sound, but very quiet. only wire I can't figure out. I am trying to find the common denominator in all this stuff, but no dice. I have tow severed lines in the rear harness a black with green stripe and an orange one, I think. all wires, when probed and connected to ground for the rear lights in the harness running the length of the truck show resistance/continuity to chassis, even without the MFS connected. THIS MAKES NO SENSE!!!??? they shouldn't be grounded, they are all inside plastic conduit, and I followed the harness all over the truck with no breaks in the line. all front lights work, so it must be something they have in common. I want to sleep and attack this fresh tomorrow.
 
the brown wires are a splice that I found, and repaired, going into the steering wire harness connector, someone tapped into the red green wire on this harness for some nefarious purpose.
 
Reconnected that black wire, to a ground somewhere. The big ground under the truck had high resistance, I connected the rear smaller black wire to the trailer ground by the bumper. I still have a rogue black wire from around the rear tank that y'd into the bigger one.
 
Ok, so my trailer wires are hot when they aren't supposed to be, I disconnected all of them, and am starting over. Still no blown fuses or relays, I got my new mfs and nO change, at all. I figured out why my roof markers don't work, they are aftermarket. I'm going to wire them seperately to a toggle. I have discovered yet two more wires that aren't connected to anything. They are gray and gray black located under the drivers kick panel just behind the hood release. My patience is thin. If I don't figure it out I'm going to set fire to it and warm myself by it
 
For a 92' f350??? Military doesn't service international harvester/NAVSTAR engines, besides it won't help me re wire this thing
 
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