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No oil pressure at idle after rebuild, new block!

turbovanman

I has boost, :O)
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Abbotsford
I have figured it out but this is more of an info post for you guys to avoid this crap in the future. This has cost me $1000's.

Customer has his 96 Dually, auto 6.5 turbo towed in, made a bang and stopped working, engine siezed. I yank the engine, it ripped out 4 main webs and broke the crank in 3 places, ):h

Had a local machine shop redo the engine, nothing was usable except cam so he got a new block and heads out of Ontario, local supplier stocks them, did some searching and no problems found and other shops had used them with no problems. Got it together and first problem was I stripped out the motor mount pads?????????? turned out they were tapped for metric so I redid them in 3/8 course, like the factory block.

Put the engine in, everything seemed fine but after it warmed up, no oil pressure at idle??????? put a real gauge on, verified zero warm at idle, 20 just above idle??? We do some messing around and he didn't know about the oil cooler bypass and plug-no instructions with the block and the other one was long gone, I guess that's 2 bad omens, put those in, still no better. Yank the engine and he tears it down. Can't find any issues but bearings damaged, turn crank, then I find out about the 98 and up pumps having more volume, makes sense as 900 rpm, have oil pressure, 750, none. So now we find this is a 98 and up spec block so we should have used that pump to begin with, :mad2::mad2::mad2:

Wheeling it over to the machine shop, it almost fell off the stand, seems they tapped the bellhousing bolts also metric, so had to helicoil all of those too, :mad2::mad2::mad2:

Put the engine back together and back in, fire it up, now I've got like 75 cold, yay. Get it all done, and again as it warms up, oil pressure starts to drop, I get home and its just above 0, :sad:

Bring it back, rip out the engine again and now using a stock repaired block, I should have it running tomorrow. In the mean time, we found another shop who USED to use those blocks and had the same issues we did.

As an added bonus, his 7 month old IP shit the bed coming to work so I had to get towed in, :sad:

I'lll update as it goes.
 
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That's crazy. I hope the guy who sold you the block is now tied to it and resting comfortably in the bottom of a Lake somewhere.
 
That's crazy. I hope the guy who sold you the block is now tied to it and resting comfortably in the bottom of a Lake somewhere.

Dude, you have no idea, I have spent many a night at work late trying to get it done as he was supposed to go on Holidays towing his trailer, July 4th, he borrowed a truck but his wife is coming back Thursday/Friday to pick it up, :eek:

I will be inserting said block where the sun don't shine if he doesn't anti up.

On the flip side, I can remove the engine and strip it down under 3 hours, lol.
 
So who's gonna pay for the LABOR, to round trip this engine?.........Guy is a real douche!

Send the 6.5 mafia down there! :rocketwhore:
 
So who's gonna pay for the LABOR, to round trip this engine?.........Guy is a real douche!

Send the 6.5 mafia down there! :rocketwhore:

So far, he's dodging. We don't expect we'll see a dime, the machine shop is out about $2000 plus lost work and I am out about $4000+. :sad:

We'll have more ammo when the truck is gone. Just putting it together now and praying I get the IP back tomorrow first thing, makes it easier with the IP on when I install the engine.
 
possibly incorrect main or rod bearings?? had a gasser I was assured was a new crank on rebuild. put standard bearings in and same result-decent pressure and as it warmed it dropped to 1-2psi. just a thought, didn't know if you mic'd it.

sorry for the h*ll you're going through.
 
possibly incorrect main or rod bearings?? had a gasser I was assured was a new crank on rebuild. put standard bearings in and same result-decent pressure and as it warmed it dropped to 1-2psi. just a thought, didn't know if you mic'd it.

sorry for the h*ll you're going through.

Yes, all diesel parts, 3 times now, :mad2:

Just got the pump back, they tested it and said they found nothing, sigh, the nightmare continues. :mad2:
 
?????you mic'd the crank for correct size bearings???? sure its not 15, 20 or 30 over??? That has to be incorrect bearing size if oil pump and bypass are right. I only harp on this because I refused to believe that was my issue on a gasser motor. It sure sounds like your bearing is just 5 over because I was 15 over and could get very little pressure above idle when warm.
 
?????you mic'd the crank for correct size bearings???? sure its not 15, 20 or 30 over??? That has to be incorrect bearing size if oil pump and bypass are right. I only harp on this because I refused to believe that was my issue on a gasser motor. It sure sounds like your bearing is just 5 over because I was 15 over and could get very little pressure above idle when warm.

Yes, numerous times. First time was standard, 2nd time crank was ground 10 under. Trust us, its been checked. :thumbsup:
 
This has happened before and it almost always ends up being the plugs behind he camshaft gear are leaking or missing. oil pressure will be great until the oil gets warm and it will steadily drop to 0.
 
couple other ideas
faulty regulator or bypass-valve
using same oil pump-maybe bad?
trbl w/ pickup tube-cracked?
as mentioned block gallery/ cup plugs
manual mentions faulty cooler core

might be worth rechecking a few things with an open mind, mine closes the more frustrating it gets:mad2:
 
couple other ideas
faulty regulator or bypass-valve
using same oil pump-maybe bad?
trbl w/ pickup tube-cracked?
as mentioned block gallery/ cup plugs
manual mentions faulty cooler core

might be worth rechecking a few things with an open mind, mine closes the more frustrating it gets:mad2:

They have been checked and both are new, we already went that route.

First oil pump was a 96 spec, too small so we put a brand new 98 pump in, 1/2-3/4 taller and the pick up is already included.

We checked the 2nd pickup for cracks etc, nothing seen.

All plugs intact, we triple checked.

Oil cooler-I could blow thru it easily both ways and the oil was clean coming out. Also if it was bad, to my thinking, it would increase oil pressure as there wouldn't be any oil going thru it, or reduced? correct or ?


Well update, drove it home and same thing, no oil pressure at idle, this one is worse so I give up.

I can't see the turbo bleeding off that much oil pressure at idle-never heard of it and even my turbo let go filling my exhaust with oil and it lost 5 psi? There is no shaft play, no and in and out and it spins freely. Oil cooler as above, I am so f*cked.

Going to pinch off the oil cooler lines then remove the turbo feed line, I have nothing left to try, :mad2::wtf:
 
i know you said you check the crank...but did you plasta gauge it and the bearings?....just acts to me as if you have a miss match of bearings to crank....sounds like it looses up when it get warm and the oil is dumpin' out of the crank and rod bearings.......you can't always go by what it says on the box....

wasn't a diesel but a gas 350...had crank turned .010 under and mine got mixed up with a guys that was turned .030 under....fired it up and all was well when cold but when it warmed oil psi was 0....plasta gauge show the trouble after it was pulled apart again...
 
i know you said you check the crank...but did you plasta gauge it and the bearings?....just acts to me as if you have a miss match of bearings to crank....sounds like it looses up when it get warm and the oil is dumpin' out of the crank and rod bearings.......you can't always go by what it says on the box....

wasn't a diesel but a gas 350...had crank turned .010 under and mine got mixed up with a guys that was turned .030 under....fired it up and all was well when cold but when it warmed oil psi was 0....plasta gauge show the trouble after it was pulled apart again...

Machine shop has mic'd and plastigauaged the bearings, this would be 3 times now. I am just lost, :sad:
 
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