• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

No Moog Front bushings for Forged LCAs

Big T

Well-Known Member
Messages
11,794
Reaction score
25,952
Location
Fullerton, CA
I was ordering an interior door handle from Rockauto and the shipping was more than the cost of the part. So I was looking to add parts to the order and could not find the Moog front bushings for the forged Lower Control Arms. I added 2 ball joints for the LCAs which barely increased the shipping and made me feel good about the order. Should have thrown in a timing chain. But I’m concerned about finding the forward LCA bushings.
 
Well dang. I don't see it on Moog's website or any listing with Advanced Auto Parts for other brands. Do still see it on Energy Suspension's site in Black and Red.

We must be at the classic restoration stage now. Should be expected my truck is 22 yrs old and starting to see fewer on the road in general.

I am going to have to seriously think about my next truck. I don't plan to part with this one even if I do get a newer one. It might go over the hump shortly and start a little appreciation if it stays decent.
 
Well dang. I don't see it on Moog's website or any listing with Advanced Auto Parts for other brands. Do still see it on Energy Suspension's site in Black and Red.

We must be at the classic restoration stage now. Should be expected my truck is 22 yrs old and starting to see fewer on the road in general.

I am going to have to seriously think about my next truck. I don't plan to part with this one even if I do get a newer one. It might go over the hump shortly and start a little appreciation if it stays decent.

Why are just the rear bushings available? Does anyone have a Moog Part # for the fronts?
 
I assume commonality with several other vehicles and market demand is why some are offerred but not all. On moog’s site they have application contact form.
 
Well dang. I don't see it on Moog's website or any listing with Advanced Auto Parts for other brands. Do still see it on Energy Suspension's site in Black and Red.
Energy Suspension had in the past advertised that the black bushings were graphite impregnated this is what I have used for sometime now and have seen no down side with polyurethane.
 
Energy Suspension had in the past advertised that the black bushings were graphite impregnated this is what I have used for sometime now and have seen no down side with polyurethane.

I actually have a set of Black Energy Suspension bushing for the Forged LCA. I never understood the instructions about using part of the old bushing???
 
I actually have a set of Black Energy Suspension bushing for the Forged LCA. I never understood the instructions about using part of the old bushing???
Take a hacksaw blade insert into old rubber bushing bolt hole and saw the rubber down to the outer steel sleeve section remove the rubber and insert the poly which may have to be pressed into outer steel shell making sure you use the lube supplied during assembly. Before tightening any control arm bolts set the suspension to proper height then tighten.
 
Take a hacksaw blade insert into old rubber bushing bolt hole and saw the rubber down to the outer steel sleeve section remove the rubber and insert the poly which may have to be pressed into outer steel shell making sure you use the lube supplied during assembly. Before tightening any control arm bolts set the suspension to proper height then tighten.
Take a hacksaw blade insert into old rubber bushing bolt hole and saw the rubber down to the outer steel sleeve section remove the rubber and insert the poly which may have to be pressed into outer steel shell making sure you use the lube supplied during assembly. Before tightening any control arm bolts set the suspension to proper height then tighten.

Well, the bushings for the forged LCAs do not have an outer steel shell. The bushings for the stamped steel LCAs have an outer shell. Thus the confusion.
 
Well, the bushings for the forged LCAs do not have an outer steel shell. The bushings for the stamped steel LCAs have an outer shell. Thus the confusion.
Well, I've done them on both type of control arms on my 95 K2500 Burb stamped steel control arms & 99 K2500 forged control arms and honestly don't remember if the outer shell was not present on the forged units...so from what you have stated they go in w/o the sleeves on the forged units which makes thing quite easy for install.

I recently did the complete Energy Suspension kits of my daughters Miata's and what a PITA removing the rubber from the sleeves or outer shell's.
 
Here's what the rear bushing looks like for the forged LCA:

1547605050181.png

Compare that to the Energy Suspension kit:

1547605179183.png

I see that the kit includes bushings for the upper and lower LCAs. Maybe the instructions are referring to the upper LCA bushings which do have outer steel shells?
 
Revisited the ES bushings and it looks like I don't use the shells. I tested them in the LCA and they are a snug fit. The rubber Moogs are a bit wider, but look like they're designed to compress when pressed in. Guess I'll use the ES.
 

Attachments

  • Moog vs ES (2).jpg
    Moog vs ES (2).jpg
    52.9 KB · Views: 5
That is a silicone-based grease. Essentially the same thing as silicone dielectric grease. Whenever I replace the shot rubber sway bar bushings on vehicles with poly, I always coat the inside of the bushing before slipping it over the sway bar for two reasons. First, yes to prevent squeaking, but second and more importantly is to prevent the poly bushing from tearing from frictional interaction with the bar. From my experience over the years, while rubber will rot, collapse or wear, poly will last almost indefinitely as long as the bolt or bar can slip freely inside the bushing - hence the silicone lube. Do NOT ever use a petroleum-based (ie: GL5 molybdenum chassis grease) lubricant with polyurethane bushings as it degrades and breaks down the bushing material.
 
Back
Top