bison
Well-Known Member
nope
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
no fuel to injectors
- Thread starter Jason63
- Start date
nope
Jason63
New Member
thanks i'll run codes tomorrow, yeah a little, mainly in the diesel fuel delivery system, ive worked on a lot of gas engines, but they are a lot more simple, and when something in fuel delivery goes bad its cheaper, but that was something i was willing to give up for the power and fuel economy of a diesel.
buddy
Active Member
Actually, once you get to know your 6.5, youll find its very easy to understand, simple logic, and easy to maintain, but knowledge is power, and ignorance is how we get these trucks so cheap and mechanics make all their money. Stick around and participate, and you'll never need a mechanic.
Jason63
New Member
i ran the codes, i got 13 as the beginning and end code, but then they are 29 62 96 and 98
buddy
Active Member
So your SES light is working? This may solve your issue.
13 is fuel shutoff solenoid, the cylinder sticking up from the top of the IP. make sure its plugged in. It can set the code just by not having it plugged in and cranking once. That could be the issue though if it is not working. verify by clearning codes and checking again making sure its plugged in.
Much the same with 29, your glo plugs are working, so it must have been you took out the GloPlug fuse and it caused the 29. No big deal.
The 62 could be your issue. Turbo sensor Low, but the 5V reference from PCM also feeds the crank sensor, which could cause the issue. With IGN ON, check the voltage to gournd on the harnesses at pin C of the crank sensor, and at pin C of the boost sensor on the intake manifold, should have 5V. If the 5V is there, then you might have left it unplugged when you cranked once and cause the code, so clearing and rechecking might get rid of the code.
96 is cylinder #3 balance fault, so maybe with old engine you had a balance fault, clear codes and see if it goes away. Since youre not getting fuel and it wont run I dont think this engine could have thrown that code.
98 is also a balance fault but for cylinder #8
clear codes, crank, and see what comes back. Make sure your sensors are all plugged in.
13 is fuel shutoff solenoid, the cylinder sticking up from the top of the IP. make sure its plugged in. It can set the code just by not having it plugged in and cranking once. That could be the issue though if it is not working. verify by clearning codes and checking again making sure its plugged in.
Much the same with 29, your glo plugs are working, so it must have been you took out the GloPlug fuse and it caused the 29. No big deal.
The 62 could be your issue. Turbo sensor Low, but the 5V reference from PCM also feeds the crank sensor, which could cause the issue. With IGN ON, check the voltage to gournd on the harnesses at pin C of the crank sensor, and at pin C of the boost sensor on the intake manifold, should have 5V. If the 5V is there, then you might have left it unplugged when you cranked once and cause the code, so clearing and rechecking might get rid of the code.
96 is cylinder #3 balance fault, so maybe with old engine you had a balance fault, clear codes and see if it goes away. Since youre not getting fuel and it wont run I dont think this engine could have thrown that code.
98 is also a balance fault but for cylinder #8
clear codes, crank, and see what comes back. Make sure your sensors are all plugged in.
Jason63
New Member
cool, yeah 3 and 8 had holes in the pistons, so i will go clear codes and see what happens
Jason63
New Member
i cleared and i have 62 only now, still wont start, where do i go with that, i tested the voltage and it looks like its only getting 2V had to tell, multimeter needle isn't on 0 so i just counted how much it went up
buddy
Active Member
If you can get a digital multimeter, borrow one or something that would help.
If you test the battery do you count it go up 12V?
You still get the 62, so it would seem as though that voltage could be low, and a DTC 57 will set if it below 1V, which it is not.
You might have a short or a bad sensor somewhere pulling too much current and dropping the load. disconnect the BARO sensor on the firewall, with IGN ON check the harness at pin C for 5V to ground, then try it from Pin C to pin A. Is there a difference?
Then try unplugging the crank, BARO and Boost sensors at the same time and checking the voltage at their pin C locations of the harnesses with IGN ON. Those all tie into one grey wire that goes in to the PCM behind the glove box to a Pink 24 pin harness at pin C10. So if the voltage is low you can make sure there is good continuity to that point, by seeing how much resistance is on the line, need less than 1 ohm for good continuity. A digital multimeter could check that, and youd have to subtract the amount of resistance in the leads that you use.
If it really is low coming out of the PCM, then the resistor in the PCM on that line might be messed up.
Although your not starting probably has a lot to do with the IP installation issue.
If you test the battery do you count it go up 12V?
You still get the 62, so it would seem as though that voltage could be low, and a DTC 57 will set if it below 1V, which it is not.
You might have a short or a bad sensor somewhere pulling too much current and dropping the load. disconnect the BARO sensor on the firewall, with IGN ON check the harness at pin C for 5V to ground, then try it from Pin C to pin A. Is there a difference?
Then try unplugging the crank, BARO and Boost sensors at the same time and checking the voltage at their pin C locations of the harnesses with IGN ON. Those all tie into one grey wire that goes in to the PCM behind the glove box to a Pink 24 pin harness at pin C10. So if the voltage is low you can make sure there is good continuity to that point, by seeing how much resistance is on the line, need less than 1 ohm for good continuity. A digital multimeter could check that, and youd have to subtract the amount of resistance in the leads that you use.
If it really is low coming out of the PCM, then the resistor in the PCM on that line might be messed up.
Although your not starting probably has a lot to do with the IP installation issue.