packratt
Active Member
Turn the key and no crank. New batteries grounds clean. Accessories turn on. Can hear glow plug solenoid and lift pump. Starter doesn't attempt to move.
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no crank
- Thread starter packratt
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
if you can reach it jumper across the studs on the starter to bypass the selenoid. if it works bad selenoid or bad signal from key
Chief915
915A Maint Tech
Check continuity through the safety switch on the clutch pedal.
jrsavoie
Recruit
No click, no nothing from the starter?
Also can check for voltage to the litlle stud on the starter when the key is in the start position.
If you have voltage there, then check for voltage on the big cable to the starter. You can have voltage but still not carry the cranking amps. You can do a battery load test at the stud.
New batteries do not mean good batteries. I've been fooled before. I bought 3 new bad batteries in the past few years. I'll never buy Napa batteries again. Autozone, Walmart, KMart, Sears or some other nationwide chain store for me.
If the batteries are dual post and you load test them make sure and attach the load tester on the cable ends attached to the batteries. This will verify the connections are good and I've had individual posts go bad.
If you test an easily accessible post you are not using, it may test good while the post you are using will test bad
Also can check for voltage to the litlle stud on the starter when the key is in the start position.
If you have voltage there, then check for voltage on the big cable to the starter. You can have voltage but still not carry the cranking amps. You can do a battery load test at the stud.
New batteries do not mean good batteries. I've been fooled before. I bought 3 new bad batteries in the past few years. I'll never buy Napa batteries again. Autozone, Walmart, KMart, Sears or some other nationwide chain store for me.
If the batteries are dual post and you load test them make sure and attach the load tester on the cable ends attached to the batteries. This will verify the connections are good and I've had individual posts go bad.
If you test an easily accessible post you are not using, it may test good while the post you are using will test bad
packratt
Active Member
No click or nothing from starter.
Will test clutch switch and volts at starter after work tommorow. Will also check the 2 fuses in the system.
Will test clutch switch and volts at starter after work tommorow. Will also check the 2 fuses in the system.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I'd definately check the underhood fuses for continuity and volts.
Have you ever changed the ignition switch yet? I've had to change the ignition switch in the 95, 96 and 98 vehicles.
I had simialar issues in the Tahoe when the ignition switch went bad. It also blew the 40 amp fuse in the underhood fuse box.
Have you ever changed the ignition switch yet? I've had to change the ignition switch in the 95, 96 and 98 vehicles.
I had simialar issues in the Tahoe when the ignition switch went bad. It also blew the 40 amp fuse in the underhood fuse box.
JiFaire
Land Mine Finder
Great advice in this thread... the guys are obviously no strangers to electrical issues in the 6.5!
I always recommend methodical troubleshooting backwards through the system...
Carefully check and clean the dual-cable connection on the positive post of the passenger-side battery. Take it completely apart, make sure there is no corrosion on the copper 'Donut' or in between the cables.
Post #2 is your next step; if you direct-short the solenoid and nothing happens, either you have no power in the starter cable or the solenoid is suspect. If the solenoid clicks but nothing happens, the starter is suspect. If it works, then the problem lies upstream of the solenoid.
If it's upstream, then pull and check fuses and connectors, then NSI (neutral start interlock), then keyswitch.
Do one thing at a time, keep is posted so we don't step all over each other trying to help.
I always recommend methodical troubleshooting backwards through the system...
Carefully check and clean the dual-cable connection on the positive post of the passenger-side battery. Take it completely apart, make sure there is no corrosion on the copper 'Donut' or in between the cables.
Post #2 is your next step; if you direct-short the solenoid and nothing happens, either you have no power in the starter cable or the solenoid is suspect. If the solenoid clicks but nothing happens, the starter is suspect. If it works, then the problem lies upstream of the solenoid.
If it's upstream, then pull and check fuses and connectors, then NSI (neutral start interlock), then keyswitch.
Do one thing at a time, keep is posted so we don't step all over each other trying to help.
packratt
Active Member
Until tonight have been posting with my cell phone(PITA) so apologies for brief posts.
Prior to fail to crank. I'd been experiencing some random hard to start/slow crank occurrences like have occurred in the past with bad connections at the battery. Hook the booster pack up and start with no problem. Had cleaned the connections several times.
Truck is setting in the parking lot at work and I've been going in and getting off too late to do much.
I was able to jumper the clutch safety switch this evening with no luck. Also checked the in cab and under hood fuses, both were good. Didn't want to go slithering around under the truck in uniform. Plan on going in tomorrow afternoon, with jack, jack stand and creeper, and doing the checks at the starter.
Prior to fail to crank. I'd been experiencing some random hard to start/slow crank occurrences like have occurred in the past with bad connections at the battery. Hook the booster pack up and start with no problem. Had cleaned the connections several times.
Truck is setting in the parking lot at work and I've been going in and getting off too late to do much.
I was able to jumper the clutch safety switch this evening with no luck. Also checked the in cab and under hood fuses, both were good. Didn't want to go slithering around under the truck in uniform. Plan on going in tomorrow afternoon, with jack, jack stand and creeper, and doing the checks at the starter.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Take a load tester with you and test the batteries. After you test the batteries you can test tham again after the connections as I described earlier.
What is your volt meter reading when you have had the slow start occurences? Is it reading 14 volts with the engine running?
Have you added additional wire to your alternator? I always add an additional OEM alternator wore to the battery that currently isn't getting one. The OEM wires aren't rated to handle what the alternator is rated to put out.
What is your volt meter reading when you have had the slow start occurences? Is it reading 14 volts with the engine running?
Have you added additional wire to your alternator? I always add an additional OEM alternator wore to the battery that currently isn't getting one. The OEM wires aren't rated to handle what the alternator is rated to put out.
Last edited:
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
The on again off again sluggish cranking is likely a failed starter.
Unhook the batteries and yank the starter.
The asiest way on the GMT 400 trucks is to remove the LH front wheel (place rig on a sturdy jack stand)
Remove the rubber inner fender flap and the starter wiring and tail hook are right there easy to get to.
Ge the starter out on the ground and test it with a set of jumper cables and jump the solenoid stud to the main stud.
The issue is most probably a starter that has headed for greener pastures.
Keep us posted
Missy
Unhook the batteries and yank the starter.
The asiest way on the GMT 400 trucks is to remove the LH front wheel (place rig on a sturdy jack stand)
Remove the rubber inner fender flap and the starter wiring and tail hook are right there easy to get to.
Ge the starter out on the ground and test it with a set of jumper cables and jump the solenoid stud to the main stud.
The issue is most probably a starter that has headed for greener pastures.
Keep us posted
Missy
jrsavoie
Recruit
I agree with Missy, but I would load test the batteries first. I made that mistake once with a new set of bad batteries. I used the same starter for another 3 or 4 years after I reinstalled it.
packratt
Active Member
It was the starter.
Got up under it this afternoon and had juice at the main stud and start signal stud but no motion. Pulled the POS did a direct test with booster pack and just got smoke.
Local store had a new Remy starter. Installed it. Good fast crank and truck fired right up.
Got up under it this afternoon and had juice at the main stud and start signal stud but no motion. Pulled the POS did a direct test with booster pack and just got smoke.
Local store had a new Remy starter. Installed it. Good fast crank and truck fired right up.
Chief915
915A Maint Tech
Glad you got her going again.