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Newbie Issues

F

flhtc01

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Location
Knoxville, MD
As I have posted before, I have a new to me 1986 CUCV. I am experiencing some different issues. Any input would be appreciated.

1. When cold starting it takes forever. New Duraterms with bypass relay. GPs are working. When I say forever it take about 4 to 6 cycles of the GPs of 15 seconds each time and it was 38 degrees out today. It has set for two days and it has been plugged in. Am I supposed to be giving it fuel? It will try to start and run for about a second at what seems to be a higher than normal idle. Once the truck is warmed up it fires right up with no issues what so ever. The initial is just brutal.

2. How can you determine whether or not the block heater is working?

3. The water reservoir keeps getting low and I can find no signs of leaks anywhere. Where are the normal leaks in these trucks? The oil is NOT milky and there is no indication of it steaming from the exhaust. After the running the truck and getting it to temperature there is no sign of leakage on the ground. Confused.
 
What rpm is the engine spinning while you crank?

Age of batteries? Grounds? Positive wire corroded?

Weak ip and bad injectors will cause hard starts too.

Check for air in the fuel while running by putting a clear hose on the top of the ip.

Source Unknown
 
tanman_2006 - Batteries and all cabling are brand new. I cannot tell you the RPM that it is turning while cranking but, it is plenty fast enough. I do not know the age of the IP and injectors but, I would assume they are original. The truck only has 47K on it. The truck idles very nice once it gets fired up and runs great. I did just go out and check the continuity on the block heater and it is open so, either the heater or the cord is shot.

Anyone know where to get a new block heater?
 
At 38* you should fire off pretty easy with the 15sec glow cycle.

Look for air leaks.

Did you happen to check compression?

Source Unknown
 
tanman_2006 - How do you properly check for air leaks? No, I did not check the compression yet. What should it be and how is it accomplished?
 
tanman_2006 said:
Start by adding a clear fuel line from the top of the injector pump back to the fuel filter return fitting.

Source Unknown
Click to expand...

Do you to know the size of the hose and is it possible to get clear fuel line that I can leave on? I believe the issue is with air or possibly the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is going bad will it still run or just dead period?
 
1/4" about 6" long. Tygon is transparent and fuel rated. Use new hose clamps. Pick it up from small engine repair shops.
The 1/8" stuff works for injector return lines, but some people have bad luck with it no using it without the little spring hose clamps.
 
I just bought the cheapie clear tubing from the local hardware store. Been on there for years

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk
 
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