• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New Years WE, Part1 - Injector replacement

Gulfsurfer

Member
Messages
42
Reaction score
3
I'll be posting a several threads of some work I did over the New Years weekend. I'm not going to rehash a lot of what I've seen here and other forums, mainly because I've got limited time to do this web publishing. I will focus on points I have not seen discussed.

Pardon the photo quality, they were taken with my PDA and I accidentally changed the mode from sunlight to B/W a couple of times.

I changed the injectors out to make sure the mixture was atomized correctly. I don't know how old the injectors were but they were Bosch made in Germany. They did not appear to be leaking when I removed them. The new ones from NAPA-Eichlin are stamped India.

1Inj00.jpg 1Inj01.jpg

The pics above show the NAPA/OTC injector socket I purchased. It's a little more costly than a 30MM axle deep socket ($47 vs $30), but it has two features that I think make it worthwhile: 1) 7/8" wrench flats so you can use a wrench in tight spots 2) a cavity that precisely fits the protective cap that these injectors came with (see pic at right with cap off the injector and in teh socket). This protects the injector nipples while you're tightening the injectors in the head.


1Inj1.jpg 1Inj2.jpg

The pics above show a foil tape wrap I decided to use on the passenger side injector return lines (Dipac clampless type). Once I wrapped each line, I bent it to shape before installing. This was easy to do and may help prevent premature line deterioration. We'll see what happens in time.


1Inj3.jpg 1Inj3b.jpg

The pics above show the return lines and injectors installed. BTW, leaving the glows off and spinning the engine over without compression is THE way to purge the injectors quickly. Thanks to MGW and others for that tip.

The new injectors and AC 60GS glow plugs have improved the cold start and throttle response. It was a worthwhile project and I did it in conjunction with exhaust system replacement, turbo removal (replace return gasket, 1" return line hose coupling, install Heath Turbomaster). I suppose if I had to, I could have replaced the injectors and return lines from above after removing the turbo heat shields. My back would have ached though. I've gotten pretty good at removing passenger fender liner quiclky, that gives really good access to everything on the passenger side lower part of the engine.

The next thread will cover the exhaust system replacement.
 
Last edited:
Nice.I used the convoluted plastic tubing[like wiring harness] over my return lines for added color and to stop some of the heat from getting to the rubber. I was thinking the thermo sheilding like used on spark plug wires would be the ultimate.
 
Back
Top