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New to diesel 1999 gmc 3500 6.5l turbo diesel

993500

993500

New Member
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Location
Lake Geneva WI
Hello everyone I bought my first diesel truck about a month ago, 1999 gmc 3500 6.5l turbo diesel. I'm trying to learn as I go. So far I've removed the soot collector, put on a homemade turbo master, removed air box and installed spector filter. Today I replaced the o ring on the optical sensor, Then found out my fuel bowl is leaking from the bottom probably the water sensor. Is it possible to get the bowl out without taking the whole intake off? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Do not throw away your 1999 air box. I would re-install that ASAP.

What is a Spector filter?

Just as well pull the intake and run new fuel lines while you are there. Also give the engine wiring harness a twice over. I have been replacing them as I go anymore. They are all missing clips or have spots that do not look so spiffy anymore
 
The air box is as good as you can get. The filter bowl can be removed without removing the intake. Install new fuel hose, use a hose barb and connect the new and old hose together. Pull the new hose under the intake when the old hose is pulled out.

Welcome to TTS
 
Welcome!

The Homemade Turbo master is a MPG lowering device. Better to get a tune and let the ECM open the WG for MPG when Turbo Boost isn't required. Boost out of range or high IAT's will defuel the engine another disadvantage to a homemade TM to be aware of. Best to just get rid of the Asthma Attack GM turbo for a bigger one.

Air filtration is CRITICAL for a diesel engine. Poor air filters will dust the engine requiring a ring job in a short time depending on how dusty your area is.
 
Thanks for the warm welcome. Sorry I don't have pics yet. I have decided to take it to a shop to have the fuel leak fixed, won't cost too much about $120-150. She'll be down till next week sometime. A tuned computer and new turbo aren't in the budget right now that's why I did the turbo master.
 
993500 said:
Thanks for the warm welcome. Sorry I don't have pics yet. I have decided to take it to a shop to have the fuel leak fixed, won't cost too much about $120-150. She'll be down till next week sometime. A tuned computer and new turbo aren't in the budget right now that's why I did the turbo master.
Click to expand...
Better of just leaving it OEM unless something wasn't working
 
In that case just run it, make some $ and start saving. The ATT will pay for itself in fuel savings. The extra power and cooler engine is icing on the cake.

Believe WarWagon, he been there done that in your state for many miles.

Get 4-6" of 1/4" clear line on the ip return line, then if there is air getting sucked in you will see the bubbles. Instant diagnoses for life, at $5 cost and 10 minutes work.
 
Pic of turbo master and air filter I have plugged the hole in the intake tube.
 

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Going to pick up the o rings today from the dealer. About $10 for both. Still wanna try fixing it myself but not sure if I wanna try or not. Also probably needs injectors or the ip is out of adjustment smokes alot on start up and now while accelerating.
 
Did it smoke on acceleration before you modified into the turbomaster? Smoke at start up isn't abnormal. Where's your compression and what blow by? Video?

Do not start "playing" with ip, until you know everything else is like it should be. Compounding problems is an easy way to burn through money and add headaches.
 
Smoke on startup. Likely glow plug or two is burned out. The New self limiting plugs take longer to heat up then the old ones. A tune helps with this.

When running black smoke means not enough air (Sometimes timing). White smoke is timing, blown head gasket, and rarely oil.

Injectors last 30-100K. Anything over 100K on them, at a cheap $550 set, is risking an engine meltdown.

On a budget I suggest going back to stock by removing the homemade TM and going back to the vac system. Without a boost gauge and ECM tune it's going to cause you more trouble than it's worth via turbo over/underspeed, ECM defuel to save the engine, smoke, MPG loss, etc.

At 65 MPH I can run 0 boost so cranking up the boost just to have it is not required and sucks fuel to spin the turbo and heat up the intake air.

To be clear: you got to pay to play. Only a larger turbo with tune will give you better MPG and power and is the exception to this rule.

Otherwise to get more power that you appear to want a tune is the cheapest start on stock or little more money with a 'engineered' Turbo Master and boost gauge. These engines are capable of pulling hard to the redline vs. the anemic power they have from the factory. Not a high power modern diesel, but, they can get out of their own way.

It can quickly get insane from there and some of us have tested and gone beyond the limits of sanity and budget. "It's only a $2000.00 engine swap if it blows. So what are we worried about again?" Damn... another Carnage Thread entry...
 
I will put the waste gate and air box back on before it goes in the shop next week. Not driving it now because of the fuel leak.
 
Don't have money right now for new injectors about $900 for the job. Getting the leak fixed first so I can at least drive it. Will post pics asap.
 
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