• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New Lift Pump Needed, Which To Buy? Delphi? AC Delco? Carter? Airtex?

CORVAIRWILD

CORVAIRWILD

Member
Messages
176
Reaction score
10
Location
In Arizona, buying another diesel Suburban
I just switched the one on my '95 Sub, it was a Delphi I bot somewhere. Now I'd like to keep a new one handy.

Here's a copy of RockAuto...

PRECISE Part # 402P3309
Pre-Pump -At Frame

Part Image
$27.79
SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # SP1127
(Only 9 Remaining)

* Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day
$39.79

AIRTEX Part # E3309 Electric Fuel Pump One of our most popular parts
Frame Mounted

Part Image
$52.89
CARTER Part # P74143 Electric In Line One of our most popular parts
In-line

Part Image
$55.79

RETECH Part # AFS0384P Electric Fuel Pump
Frame Mounted

Part Image
$55.89

DELPHI Part # FD0031 Electric
In-line

Part Image
$64.79

ACDELCO Part # EP309 {#25117340} FRAME MOUNTEPUMP,FUEL (ELEC) FRAME MTD

Part Image
$68.79
 

Attachments

  • CIMG9465 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9465 (Small).JPG
    55.4 KB · Views: 10
My little fuel pump cemetery has just about one of each of those.

I recommend the Walbro FRB-5 as I can't kill it followed by the FRC-10 although I killed one of the 10's along with the injectors and IP with buggy fuel.
The factory style pumps can't take any biodiesel as leftover menthol eats the valves. I even had one leaking fuel through the power wires. You can get up to 5% biodiesel at the #2 pump without a label saying so. Warranty or not I got sick of changing lift pumps and the Walbro's have mostly relived me of this chore. Worth the extra money.

The FRB-5 you can rebuild the FRC-10 you can't get parts for.

http://www.leroydiesel.com/Fuel_Delivery.html
WALBRO FRC-10 LIFT PUMP.
Leroy can get the FRB-5 on request.
 
AIRTEX Part # E8153 Solenoid; 12 volts; 10-14 PSI; 35 GHP; 3/8 hose; Diesel Engines $39.79

It's the only universal they list for DIESEL and blended fuels, I suppose it means it's OK for biodiesel too. I'd check before I ordered it.
HOWEVER, it's the same basic design as the crap oem pump. If it's the way you want to go, I'd say have one ready to plug in and bolt on.
No mater what you do for a FP, get a fuel pressure gauge. It's an instant warning of many different problems that can kill the Injection Pump.
I put a T inline from the FM to the IP, and hooked the line to the gauge there.
That way you know if the filter is too plugged or the pump is failing, or the tank sock is clogged, etc.

Personally, I have good success with the Walbro from http://www.leroydiesel.com/
He's a good member here, and has done right by everybody I know of. I've bought many things from him.
He's a better source than Rockauto IMHO.

Just got back tonight from a tow over the grapevine; 2 axle trailer and the Burb loaded. 17 mpg avg , no overheating problems, not much smoke.
Of course the Burb acted as the air foil for the trailer, REAL aerodynamic ;)

God's good grace on over 260k miles... so far.:tiphat :thumbsup:
 
I run Delco for plug and play, but have heard of folks getting along good with the walbro. (I assume it fits without modifications?) and Leroy has been great. any issue and he goes above and beyond to solve it.
 
I don't wanna diss Leroy, I only hear good things about him, but the Walbro is totally different, and requires a new mount, fittings, rubber hose. So I wonder if it's worth the effort??? Leroy sent me clear pix of his install, I'll see if I can post them here
 
Is the Walbro "plug and play"? Almost:hihi:
You need to fab up a bracket or some have mounted it right to the crossmember. I like to see them mounted verticaly though.
I was making a bracket at one time, but it became a PITA because every cab type is different (4 door, ext cab, reg cab....ect)
Then is all different from 2wd vs 4x4 again.
A great material to make a bracket from is called UniStrut. Its used in plumbing and electrical to hang conduit/plumbing overhead. Its about $15 for 10' of it. Any hardware store should have it They have special purpose nuts that slide/adjust to anywhere along the strut. Very adaptable stuff.
The Walbro FRC10 is prefect for the 94-2000 trucks w/ds4 ip. I have a LP bypass fitting kit that screws onto the factory hardlines. I include a new connector that you can use to plug into factory harness.
So it kind of is a "plug and play" its just not a direct fit replacement.
The Walbro FRC10 has become my #1 recomended mod for the money and they are outlasting the stock pumps.
 
They are designed to be vertical, it's in the factory tech info. I had installed mine horizontally at first, then remounted it vertically and it ran better.

When you install the pressure gauge, get all the air out of the tube AND the gauge; that improved my readings by 2-3 psi. it's not the easiest thing to do, but it's worth the accuracy.
 
I went to my warehouse to look at my '93 Silverado, and discovered that the fuel filter is a nicely installed aftermarket, and I can't install a dual tstat outlet, throttle cables are in the way

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjoOJNBFiw4
 

Attachments

  • CIMG9759 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9759 (Small).JPG
    32.8 KB · Views: 3
  • CIMG9760 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9760 (Small).JPG
    34.7 KB · Views: 3
  • CIMG9772 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9772 (Small).JPG
    33.9 KB · Views: 2
  • CIMG9774 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9774 (Small).JPG
    49.4 KB · Views: 3
  • CIMG9770 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9770 (Small).JPG
    25.8 KB · Views: 2
  • CIMG9765 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9765 (Small).JPG
    32.4 KB · Views: 2
  • CIMG9766 (Small).JPG
    CIMG9766 (Small).JPG
    49.5 KB · Views: 2
we will see the genral consensus here, but in an article bill heath proved the most efficient colling system was a single t-stat coupled with the 99.5-2000 model year water pump. this unfortunately means its time to buy a new fan clutch, as it changed from the 4 bolt mount to one big thread on stub. I personally like the 9 blade steel fan, but most folks squeeze a duramax fan in there. depending on engine mount condition, shroud trimming may need to occur.

so, in short, dont do the dual t-stat upgrade.
 
You can convert to a dual, but as mentioned it seems the latest and gratest is using the single Tstat. Back a few years ago I converted my 96 to a DB2 ip with dual tstats. I have a 96 single tstat to go in, but those are fairly rare, one year only thing.

Below are a couple pics of what you could do if you were set on dual stats on your 93.

DS4 to DB2 swap 003.jpgDS4 to DB2 swap 001.jpg
 
The dual stat and the single stat are two totally different animals. The dual stats are smaller diameter than the single stat. Therefore, using a single stat housing, with the correct stat, will flow more coolant than using just one of the dual stats, and blocking the location for the second stat, in the dual stat housing. In addition, the single stat has a temperature controlled block for the bypass built into the stat, and the dual stats do not have the built in bypass block.

Don
 
what is on there now? I assume the single is still on there? leave it! :) its way cheaper!! if you really want to help the cooling system, get the 88894035 water pump and thread on clutch and upgrade the fan.
 
Tell me why the 99.5 fan is better? It doesn't get very hot here, and my '93 Silverado survived 283k. It's FP is a jobber, and very noisy. I'm so curious to see the actual FP pressure. I've heard the storys, can't wait for the movie lol.

I just installed a new Delphi pump on my '95 Sub when the pump failed after I changed my fuel filter, which also has a regular PMD. I will install a remote PMD, just in case. I was going to buy a glowshift FP gage, but the reviews are revealing. What should I get?
 
Leroy you just need some more :redneck: and do away with a fancy bracket. A 1/4" grade 8 bolt, 1 nut and 2 washers will do the job. Just bring the pump back to the 1st open frame rail hole, tilt the pump so it fits and snug the bolt down. Similar to the photo below. The FRB-5 is mounted here now.

RIP Carter...
PICT9227.jpg

The thread on fan clutch isn't required, but, the thread on pump has balanced flow to both banks and is the top of the line. A 20" steel fan with a HO pump does the job esp with a low temp fan clutch. Job = at or below 210 towing. The 21" plastic fans pull more air at idle for AC and have less inertia. They also are quieter. I pushed the limits on several fans including a 21" with too little pitch that ran hot. All with a single t-stat housing on the 1993.

Personally I hate the thread on clutch design for the PIA it is to get on or off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top