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New intake

Nice!
Forgive me for asking, but is this cooler meant for fresh cool water from a add-on tank or from the engine coolant to run through?

I'm guessing it could be work for ether or depending on the climate maybe?
 
Just a thought on having colder than ambient temp water for the cooler. placement on the water tank would be better in an area under the truck away from the sun. and maybe having a small radiator with a mounted fan under the bed to circulate and cool the water before it's run through the cooler in the intake. honestly depending on the flow rate and size of the cooling radiator, you might not need a tank to hold water.

but that was just me thinking outside the box lol.
 
Just another thought... though I might be barking at the wrong tree again.

this is something you'd have to experiment with, but I was reading up on the idea of liquids passing through an orifice similar to how our air conditioners work to raise and lower temps. it's called the Joule-Thomson effect. it only works at high pressures for water to change temps but what if you were to somehow aireate the water flowing through the cooler at low pressure using a pump like the ones used on the WMI systems or an AG sprayer, having some sort of orifice before the cooler. Adding things like alcohol to the water making sure to keep it non flammable and non corrosive for the cooler. you might be able to drop the temp of the liquid an extra few degrees more than what an external radiator with a fan can do alone.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Joule-Thomson effect
Click to expand...
That is exactly an air conditioning system. The orifice would be an a/c orifice or txv. If the ‘water mix’ is say r134a or whatever r12 replacement he is running- that way they are the same. It would make the little heat exchanger in the manifold an evaporator and the outside radiator into a condenser. Then only the compressor is missing in place of the little water pump.

To actually make it work- using a suburban with rear air set up in the pickup, only the ‘rear air’ pwrt would be the evaporator in the intake manifold. And using the rest of the existing a/c system like normal.
 
Will L. said:
You would only want colder water, always. Even freezing temperatures outside and a cold start, the ambient temperature water wouldnt make it any colder starting than just straight air.

Now if only that was an evaporator.... haha
Awesome Chris!
Click to expand...
FORD holds a patent on AC evaporator intake for motor vehicles...it is the best way to get down cold performance...only other way is high pressure 1k or more water injection so the timing never needs to be retarded but actually advanced for even more performance.
 
Wow, that is snug. I remember them saying the spacer is phenolic so it stops a lot of the heat transfer from the heads to the intake- toral genius move there imo.

If the db2 had an aneroid, do you think it would clear the intake?
 
DieselAmateur has one of my pumps that had the aneroid, but I doubt it would, there isn't room, and this was all designed to use the spacers, it won't fit without them.. And look at the room without the cooler and the runner design, I would bet it flows very well over the stock stuff...
 
Is the Bullet cast manifold compatible with 60° van/hmmwv heads or just 90° truck/suv?
Looks like the fastener holes in the manifold and spacer would need re-drilled vertically, and 30° beveled washers installed between the manifold and nut/bolt head.
 
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That would be sweet! I'd be interested for my p400 hmmwv block. Look forward to seeing your finished installation, very innovative
 
@Twisted Steel Performance I understand that. I have a center turbo oil block off plate from Unique Diesel, and a peninsular intake with the idea of bolting that to a Bullet or used Marine Diesel AB Sweeden manifold with custom top plate. Banks side mount exhaust manifold. I think ford 6.4 vgt compounds with a fabricated t3 adaptor and a controller similar to banshee would make for a good power band
1627148478974.png
 
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