Hello All, I'm new here, I currently have a project 94 GMC 6.5 Diesel Project, It was actual barn find in 2016 after being parked in 2001. I acquired the truck project incomplete, midway of recieving a new engine and transmission. The owner had lost interest. Many parts were missing, and the motor/trans install was incomplete. The truck was very clean for its age, but missing a lot of parts under the hood. So I bought the 94 Chev as a donor truck, but have since cleaned it up, and been driving it. Seems that its going to be hard to take the parts from now, so another donor may be int he future. I'm looking forward to getting the GMC back on the road next spring if all goes well.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
New Here-
- Thread starter Hookem9
- Start date
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Hello No.9.
Welcome to the forum.
You are in the right place for all the advice and guidance that You could ever need to get, and keep, Your truck on the road.
If You get a chance, post in some pics of Your truck.
Welcome to the forum.
You are in the right place for all the advice and guidance that You could ever need to get, and keep, Your truck on the road.
If You get a chance, post in some pics of Your truck.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Welcome! We love pics. Add any modifications into your signature line to help with future diagnosis help.
So, I am the guy that talks too much, tells about the sky is falling, and will help you spend all your money on the truck.
So there is a res things to warn folks about to keep you from having issues.
These items age out not just by mileage.
1. Oil cooler hoses start to weep a tiny amount before the blow out ruining engine faster than you can shut it off. Inspect and prepare to replace. Most get ones from Leroy diesel which are better than stock, I prefer the hydraulic hose like backhoes use for high pressure lines being custom made and replacing the factory cooler with a slightly larger one that uses normal fittings instead of the junk the GM bean counters made.
2. Inspect harmonic balancer and the rubber body belt drive pulley in front of it. These are a major cause of broken crankshafts and fracked main webs. If you see the rubber in either cracking, bulging, etc. replace them IMMEDIATELY. Do ot buy the cheaper ones- they fail within 30,000 miles. Get the AC Delco brand ones and only from a trusted source- not amazon or such. There is a ton of knock off parts that ruin engines often. The Delco ones should be replaced every 100,000 miles or roughly 15 years depending on your environment. Here in the dry desert heat it’s 10 years. If you can invest in better parts that will help the engine run smoother- the ones that last lifetime is a Fluidampr balancer (not misspelled) and the Leroy’s billet pulley. Working in high mileage large fleet of 6.5s,i had a habit of grabbing the outside ring of the balancer and trying to rip it free with my hands. If you can do it (and aren’t some super human muscle man) then it was gonna fail.
So every truck I went under got this test every time from habit.
3. The rubber fuel lines in the truck- they were designed for old diesel fuel before the addition of ethanol/ methanol. The original fuel line can not withstand it long term and deteriorates from the inside out. Many people have replaced good working ip (injection pump), LP (lift pump) and injectors all because a $5 chunk of hose failed. You need SAE30R9 for the hose everywhere. 3/8 from tank to FFM (fuel filter manager) then 5/16 from FFM to ip. The 1/4” return line coming out of the ip thats about 5” long in an upside down U shape- should be replaced with clear line preferably from fuel-line.com (it is rated to 25psi and good for all the alcohols in the fuel). In a bind you can get the clear pvc line from hardware stores but that needs replacing every 3-5 years. Having the clear line becomes critical for diagnostics in the future, so best suggestion is have that part clear all the time. There is nothing rubbing it so the higher friction rating isn’t necessary on that spot.
The 1/8” that goes from one injector to another can be bought as a set as needed or you can buy the Mercedes Benz push on hose from a dealership near you by the foot for a 1970s diesel. That stuff is rated for the alcohols and seems to last for over 50 years no issues.
Never run it over 220f. Do tons of reading and ask questions. Let us know your use and goals so we can tailor responses to your goal.
So, I am the guy that talks too much, tells about the sky is falling, and will help you spend all your money on the truck.
So there is a res things to warn folks about to keep you from having issues.
These items age out not just by mileage.
1. Oil cooler hoses start to weep a tiny amount before the blow out ruining engine faster than you can shut it off. Inspect and prepare to replace. Most get ones from Leroy diesel which are better than stock, I prefer the hydraulic hose like backhoes use for high pressure lines being custom made and replacing the factory cooler with a slightly larger one that uses normal fittings instead of the junk the GM bean counters made.
2. Inspect harmonic balancer and the rubber body belt drive pulley in front of it. These are a major cause of broken crankshafts and fracked main webs. If you see the rubber in either cracking, bulging, etc. replace them IMMEDIATELY. Do ot buy the cheaper ones- they fail within 30,000 miles. Get the AC Delco brand ones and only from a trusted source- not amazon or such. There is a ton of knock off parts that ruin engines often. The Delco ones should be replaced every 100,000 miles or roughly 15 years depending on your environment. Here in the dry desert heat it’s 10 years. If you can invest in better parts that will help the engine run smoother- the ones that last lifetime is a Fluidampr balancer (not misspelled) and the Leroy’s billet pulley. Working in high mileage large fleet of 6.5s,i had a habit of grabbing the outside ring of the balancer and trying to rip it free with my hands. If you can do it (and aren’t some super human muscle man) then it was gonna fail.
So every truck I went under got this test every time from habit.
3. The rubber fuel lines in the truck- they were designed for old diesel fuel before the addition of ethanol/ methanol. The original fuel line can not withstand it long term and deteriorates from the inside out. Many people have replaced good working ip (injection pump), LP (lift pump) and injectors all because a $5 chunk of hose failed. You need SAE30R9 for the hose everywhere. 3/8 from tank to FFM (fuel filter manager) then 5/16 from FFM to ip. The 1/4” return line coming out of the ip thats about 5” long in an upside down U shape- should be replaced with clear line preferably from fuel-line.com (it is rated to 25psi and good for all the alcohols in the fuel). In a bind you can get the clear pvc line from hardware stores but that needs replacing every 3-5 years. Having the clear line becomes critical for diagnostics in the future, so best suggestion is have that part clear all the time. There is nothing rubbing it so the higher friction rating isn’t necessary on that spot.
The 1/8” that goes from one injector to another can be bought as a set as needed or you can buy the Mercedes Benz push on hose from a dealership near you by the foot for a 1970s diesel. That stuff is rated for the alcohols and seems to last for over 50 years no issues.
Never run it over 220f. Do tons of reading and ask questions. Let us know your use and goals so we can tailor responses to your goal.