• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

new here, with a 6.5L Camaro

i should go to sleep, but...



price list updated:
-slave cylinder (Free)have
-pedal assembly (free, sorta)have
-Clutch master ($50)
-Quick bleed clutch line ($35)
-driveshaft yoke intalled ($50)
-trans ($700-800)
-crossmember (Free)
-Clutch/PP ($200-300)
-Flywheel ($100-200) depending on machining/mod
-am i missing something?

minus the several hundred from selling the TCI 4l80e trans controller, I should come under 1k.
 
Sounds like a good plan, and will probably keep you busy. It would be great with the manual. If you want it to be better MPG just make sure the final ratio is higher. Or perhaps go to the 3.08 gearing even though it would be slower off the line.
I have tall 285 width tires on my Z28 but unfortunately on turns the passenger rear rubs, must be sagging over there.

A more narrow tire and I could have gone taller to reduce RPMs, but I was an idiot and got wide wheels.

here's a pic of some recent additional inner fender "mods" that i did.

you want to focus your energy on the spots i highlighted, these areas cause the most issues with wider tires. enjoy sir!

DSC03410paint.jpg
 
in response to a few questions regarding the current turbo system/radiator relocation/wMI setup on the car, here are some pics of the hot/cold side and some other cool stuff.

DSC03216.jpg

DSC03217.jpg

DSC03218.jpg

DSC03209.jpg

DSC03208.jpg

DSC03195.jpg

DSC03198.jpg

DSC03200.jpg
 
thanks for stoppin by 3500GMC.
the front bumper crash pad was removed. upper/lower core support removed and replaced with 1" dom steel. radiator position went from angled to true vertical. I feel the front is lighter and more ridgid than factory. the k-member was seamed welded when first built. front chassis seams welded. the strcuture of the front half of the car was given much attention during the original build.

motor/trans mounts were not easy considering the 4l80e itself is not meant to fit in the F-body chassis. steering rack, k-member, steering arm, firewall clearancing(just a bit), cowl modifying. the starter also conflicts with alot of things. what else....the height of the engine/trans in relation to the chassis height. ground clearance(big hurdle). Engine offset(big hurdle). among other obstacles.
 
Would like to see some pics and details of your WMI....:)

there isn't much to see. the pressure pump is tucked behind my headlights, the controller(just a box),reservoir is on my radiator(1 gal) and the nozzle is plumbed right on the upper intake manifold(vinf)

I also driled/tapped a second nozzle hole for more wmi if I get itching for more power. the current single 625cc nozzle is enough for me though.

fwiw I run 18 psi, one 625 wmi nozzle, db2 4911 maxed out, shift at 3400 rpm, 2.5" unwrapped hotside, 4" to 3" downpipe and I can never push over 900 deg EGT's.
 
there isn't much to see. the pressure pump is tucked behind my headlights, the controller(just a box),reservoir is on my radiator(1 gal) and the nozzle is plumbed right on the upper intake manifold(vinf)

I also driled/tapped a second nozzle hole for more wmi if I get itching for more power. the current single 625cc nozzle is enough for me though.

fwiw I run 18 psi, one 625 wmi nozzle, db2 4911 maxed out, shift at 3400 rpm, 2.5" unwrapped hotside, 4" to 3" downpipe and I can never push over 900 deg EGT's.


Is it store bought or a home grown setup?
 
Back
Top