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New here +motor build up ?'s

Nah I bought a 599 block core from a core supplier. Can't wait for it to get here so I can start this damn machine work and get the block filled...
 
Bill said to let the block filler cure for 70 days , and then do the machine work,I probably won't wait quiet that long.
 
Holy shit when we've filled blocks before it only takes a day or two a side. 70 days really hope your not serious... Lol
 
Maybe it depends of the concrete or just for good measure since diesels have harsher harmonics than gassers? Just thoughts.

Better safe than sorry.
 
Ok so now I'm in kind of a dilemma here now. I've got the chance to buy a long block for a good price and it would be a newer cast block. I'm kind of wanting to use block strengthener that's used in the newer hummer motors. I know this will require some fab work to the oil pan. In what year/model motors did they start using this? Is it in the optimizer or is it in this p400(is that right?) that I've been reading about? Or does anyone know where you could buy this piece from? I'm curious about it now.

I plan on buying this motor which is an ex mil hummer take out and doing pretty much what I'm talking about. Other thing I don't know is would the motor be a direct fit or would I need to change intake and heads doing to the fact it's from a hummer and they have center mount turbos(or don't they?)? I've just been reading quite a bit and it seems they are different anyways. Main thing is is would I need to change heads? I looked at mine today off the junker motor and one head is cracked between the valves on three of the chambers so pretty well toast I guess. So it's gonna be money if I have to swap heads now...

Also another thing I've been wondering about is valve size as well. 6.2 heads have the bigger valves but crack easier in between valves. So I'm thinking I could get the hardened seats put in like on mikey vons heads and save money on getting later model heads machined for bigger valves since the 6.2's are the biggest already... Anyone see any pitfalls to this that I might not be thinking of? I could get the updated heads for the 6.5 but I imagine it would most likely be big money to machine for the valves and for the valves themselves the cost would be high. Basically looking at increasing flow...

I've done a search on cams here but I'm kinda coming up dry with that too. I'm looking to go a little bigger here and I've read most people say it's not worth it due to flow and backpressure restrictions of the stock manifolds but I might have an idea worth working with there. It'll take some more thought for sure though.

Yea I know I'm asking a lot here but any help with this is appreciated
Thanks
Joe R.
 
Maybe it depends of the concrete or just for good measure since diesels have harsher harmonics than gassers? Just thoughts.

Better safe than sorry.

Based on what your saying if you had a 2'x1'x6"(for example but based on approximately one side of block) chunk of concrete you wouldn't touch it for 70 days? That's way way way extreme. I'm going to fill my block with hardblock both sides at least an inch of the waterjacket maybe more and it's going to sit 24 hrs for each side and then back to machine shop... :thumbsup:
 
Ok so now I'm in kind of a dilemma here now. I've got the chance to buy a long block for a good price and it would be a newer cast block. I'm kind of wanting to use block strengthener that's used in the newer hummer motors. I know this will require some fab work to the oil pan. In what year/model motors did they start using this? Is it in the optimizer or is it in this p400(is that right?) that I've been reading about? Or does anyone know where you could buy this piece from? I'm curious about it now.

I plan on buying this motor which is an ex mil hummer take out and doing pretty much what I'm talking about. Other thing I don't know is would the motor be a direct fit or would I need to change intake and heads doing to the fact it's from a hummer and they have center mount turbos(or don't they?)? I've just been reading quite a bit and it seems they are different anyways. Main thing is is would I need to change heads? I looked at mine today off the junker motor and one head is cracked between the valves on three of the chambers so pretty well toast I guess. So it's gonna be money if I have to swap heads now...

Also another thing I've been wondering about is valve size as well. 6.2 heads have the bigger valves but crack easier in between valves. So I'm thinking I could get the hardened seats put in like on mikey vons heads and save money on getting later model heads machined for bigger valves since the 6.2's are the biggest already... Anyone see any pitfalls to this that I might not be thinking of? I could get the updated heads for the 6.5 but I imagine it would most likely be big money to machine for the valves and for the valves themselves the cost would be high. Basically looking at increasing flow...

I've done a search on cams here but I'm kinda coming up dry with that too. I'm looking to go a little bigger here and I've read most people say it's not worth it due to flow and backpressure restrictions of the stock manifolds but I might have an idea worth working with there. It'll take some more thought for sure though.

Yea I know I'm asking a lot here but any help with this is appreciated
Thanks
Joe R.

The Optimizer is the 506 block cast after 2002 by Navistar. P400 is a great block but good luck finding one for cheaP! I think you can get a new optimizer and/or p400 from penninsular diesel (a marine diesel shop), there are some other Navistar/ AMG dealers. As for a used government engine you would have to change from 24v to 12v. The only problem with a hummer engine w/ turbo would be the manifolds, I don't think they would work. Not all hummers or gov. vehicles are turbo equiped.

I wouldn't think there would be any advantage to using a 6.2 head on a 6.5. Most 6.2 guys switch to 6.5 head when they go turbo. Not sure of all of the reasons but I think one has to do with injector angles interfering with the turbo exhaust manifolds. IMHO porting the 6.5 heads is good enough. Head studs can be used to reduce gasket failures.

Someone else can talk about cams, I'm not to that part of my forum education. ):h
 
Based on what your saying if you had a 2'x1'x6"(for example but based on approximately one side of block) chunk of concrete you wouldn't touch it for 70 days? That's way way way extreme. I'm going to fill my block with hardblock both sides at least an inch of the waterjacket maybe more and it's going to sit 24 hrs for each side and then back to machine shop... :thumbsup:

It looks like you will be on the fronteir of quick machining then! lol I see your point and am not sure why it would take 70 days, I could maybe see a week for proper curing. There might not be good airflow in the block to promote drying, heck if I know though.

It is your block go for it, I respect the local experts opinions as most of them have been there and done that. I have just been researching to start my own build soon.
 
With just one inch it shouldn't matter much, I was talking to Bill Heath,he is the perfectionist not me. Are you sure 1 inch of block filler will even help anything ? I am a little worried about mine ,since I want to keep it standard bore,supossedly it is going to have lumpy and out of round cylinders,when cured, and almost everybody but Bill thinks it will overheat.
 
So do you know which one has the main girdle/support from the factory then? Optimizer or the p400? I'd be kind of interested to see if that girdle they make can be fit into the other blocks. Military motors aren't all that hard to convert over as long as you have all the parts from the normal one like I do. It's just the engine basically. No wiring to deal with.

I don't know how fast my machinist is going to be with the stuff but I'll
be filling the block myself and then going from his time table ya know? And with all of the circle track guys around here I'm sure he'll be somewhat busy so it could be a while which means plenty of curing time lol.
 
With just one inch it shouldn't matter much, I was talking to Bill Heath,he is the perfectionist not me. Are you sure 1 inch of block filler will even help anything ? I am a little worried about mine ,since I want to keep it standard bore,supossedly it is going to have lumpy and out of round cylinders,when cured, and almost everybody but Bill thinks it will overheat.

Yea my thoughts exactly so that's why I was considering going up to the bottom of the water pump holes but that's leaves me with the pickle of being in MN with no block heater in the winter :( And 6.2 turbo how come you used Sackrete to fill your block? Just curious is all... And with how much you filled I wouldn't be worried as long as your cooling systems up to par really
 
I don't think they,the p400? have a girdle,it looks more like the entire bottom end is one separate piece ,plus where would you get one?
 
Yea my thoughts exactly so that's why I was considering going up to the bottom of the water pump holes but that's leaves me with the pickle of being in MN with no block heater in the winter :( And 6.2 turbo how come you used Sackrete to fill your block? Just curious is all... And with how much you filled I wouldn't be worried as long as your cooling systems up to par really

Bill said he uses grout,and it only cost me $12 .
 
I have no idea that's why I'm asking though. Sounds to me like it's worth it to look into at any rate at least just to be sure it can't be done. If it strengthens the bottom end and helps keep it from grenading and cracking the block it seems worthwhile anyhow. That and block filling and maybe one other thing I'm thinking of would be good ground work for a strong bottom end in my opinion. I wanna build stout now and mod later when I have more money to play with basically. Plus I thought pulling that SOB was a big pain lol
 
So do you know which one has the main girdle/support from the factory then? Optimizer or the p400? I'd be kind of interested to see if that girdle they make can be fit into the other blocks. Military motors aren't all that hard to convert over as long as you have all the parts from the normal one like I do. It's just the engine basically. No wiring to deal with.

I don't know how fast my machinist is going to be with the stuff but I'll
be filling the block myself and then going from his time table ya know? And with all of the circle track guys around here I'm sure he'll be somewhat busy so it could be a while which means plenty of curing time lol.

P400 has the block girdle, but it is big! Check this out.http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/features/mrp400c.htm

Use ID: tanman_2006 and password: 2705 (this worked earlier today)
 
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