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New Gray PMD Failed after 11,000 Miles

I bet we would have a lot less PMD and glow controller/plug issues if we regulated and conditioned 14V to them.

That very well could be true. However, the blips I've experienced recently were all after my charging/low voltage problems were cured. In the time my new PMD has been in use I've never had any more voltage fluctuations than what the glow cycle and a quick click to the starter has caused. I don't know what the volt variance would be in that situation but it can't be very much.

Don
 
I think buddy's point is you could damage/shorten the life of the unit without there being any immediate affects
 
I think buddy's point is you could damage/shorten the life of the unit without there being any immediate affects

That would sure suck!.....evertime somethin electrical goes haywire that it would be shortening your PMD as Well!

Maybe it needs some kind of isolation device ;)
 
Yes, perhaps a plug and play regulator/surge arrestor to go inbetween IP harness and the remote cable.

That and make sure the heatsink itself is well grounded, use arctic silver thermal paste instead of normal white thermal paste or that thermal pad. The arctic silver will help electrical continuity as well as thermal, so the PMD can be grounded through the heatsink. that may help any extra energy find a good short path to ground, rather than having to go all the way through the 6' cable and whatever traces on the circuit board to get to the ground on the IP.
 
Great I happen to have some artic silver (cpu stuff)....I hope I have enogh...that stuffs not cheap either.....but neither is the cost of a PMD....
 
Hmm I just went and checked...I think it might not be as good as you think....

Negligible electrical conductivity:
Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity. NOTE: Even though Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive is specifically engineered for high electrical resistance, it should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. The cured adhesive is slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridged two close-proximity electrical paths.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
 
That description does not make any sense. not conductive, but capacitive, what the heck? and it could bridge two electrical paths? Sounds CONDUCTIVE to me. They arent winning me over on technical expertise, or at least technical writing. Silver, if it is in there, is the best electrical conductor.

Here is one that claims both electrical and thermal conductivity for heatsinks
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CH...bricants-_-1UYE2&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=1UYE2

I dont think there will be much resistance between the heatsink and the PMD metal plate, as long as youre not using the themal pad. The paste/grease fills in uneven surfaces but should still get plenty of metal to metal contact. I'll pull my PMD and heatsink off this week and see about measuring if any resistance has built up over time.
 
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Funny I just found Stanadynes Sales Pitch on their Grey PMD

Stanadyne is the maker of the injection pump and has come out with an updated version of the PMD. Stanadyne has termed their new DS Pump Mounted Driver as "Bullet-Proof ", since they incorporated a series of new features for added durability and reliability.

Gold Plated Terminal Pins in connector and its mating wiring harness to maintain electrical contact integrity by reducing possibility of fretting corrosion caused by vibration.

Connector reconfigured to prevent mismatch of previous harness.

Resistant to Elevated Temperature Issues via extended temperature range components.

Steel Compression Spacers in mounting screw holes eliminate distortion, providing for consistent mounting screw torque and ease of screw removal.

Loctite® on Power Transistor Mounting Nuts to maintain nut torque, ensures efficient heat transfer.

Softer Potting Compound reduces thermally induced stress to electronic components.

Gray Plastic Housing for easy identification
 
Funny I just found Stanadynes Sales Pitch on their Grey PMD

Stanadyne is the maker of the injection pump and has come out with an updated version of the PMD. Stanadyne has termed their new DS Pump Mounted Driver as "Bullet-Proof ", since they incorporated a series of new features for added durability and reliability.

Gold Plated Terminal Pins in connector and its mating wiring harness to maintain electrical contact integrity by reducing possibility of fretting corrosion caused by vibration.

Connector reconfigured to prevent mismatch of previous harness.

Resistant to Elevated Temperature Issues via extended temperature range components.

Steel Compression Spacers in mounting screw holes eliminate distortion, providing for consistent mounting screw torque and ease of screw removal.

Loctite® on Power Transistor Mounting Nuts to maintain nut torque, ensures efficient heat transfer.

Softer Potting Compound reduces thermally induced stress to electronic components.
Gray Plastic Housing for easy identification

And that took them 17 years to figure out.:rolleyes5:

And they still fail :rolleyes5:
 
Actually, Stanadyne still have not admited that the IP location is BAD.

JK posted a cut and paste on the Stanadyne warranty statement in the other forum.
 
Actually, Stanadyne still have not admited that the IP location is BAD.
JK posted a cut and paste on the Stanadyne warranty statement in the other forum.

Actually i think the stock location is fine as long as the IP ain't starving for lack of fuel cause the supply ain't up to par .
Relocating the PMD makes swapping the thing in case it gives up the ghost an whole lot more agreeable though.
 
I think the PMDs have gotten better, and we are likely doing worse to them. Especially with the advent of the jump starter chargers, cheap rebuilt alternators that suck, higher duty cycles with powerful reflashed PCMs, ect..... I avoid jump starting like the plague and not had an issue with it on the intake for 4 years. I also noticed that Walt at SSD says about the same about jump starting, but in relation to the glow system. So although he may not realize it, it may be his secret as to why the ones he puts on his intake dont fail.

Duty cycles on it also increase with loads, towing, ect....towing heavier than before with newfound power. But they still fail even without that. On the intake or the IP may be better for really cold places where it may freeze and become brittle in the bumper with less engine heat and safety from elements and may get a warm up with a block heater, ect.... before being called into action.
 
Try as much as possible, to keep fuel tank topped up, to act as much of a heat sink as possible , just in case there is some truth to Stanadynes fuel cooling theory.
 
My Old Tahoe had it on the IP as well. I had relocated it for PM but the old one was working fine when disconnected. The D Tech I replaced it with acted glitchy.
 
mines been on the ip for a year since the chevy dealer replaced the ip. no problems yet. but i got a black dtech on the bumper just in case it does fail
 
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