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New cooler lines & xover at same time??

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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New cooler lines and Fluidampr are happeneing before any other major upgrades this year, and I think my Xover may be leaking slightly at the donut.

So.

I was thinking that IF I get heaths 2 piece xover, and remove my original xover, then do the oil cooler lines, then install the heath xover, it would make life simple for the cooler lines.

Any thoughts?
 
Sounds like a plan. Have a welder and torch handy for broken off bolts. Most mandrel bent crossovers are 2 piece. You might want to think about stainless steel pipes.
 
Many engines go 300k+ without a Fliudampr. I never saw the benifit vs the cost unless yours is shot anyway. As far as Oil Cooler lines don't expect them to fit perfectly. You will need to do some fancy routing and need extra tie downs and something to cover them in spots where they will rub particularly the dipstick tube. remeber braided lines vibrating are like a mini hack saw and will cut alot of things. PArker hoise makes this cool ABS like stuff that covers lines. I will try it next time around but I used heater hose on my Tahoe. Don't even screw around trying to get the old ones out in one piece. Sawzall them right in half.
 
Well, my HB has 135k on it, and after replacing my crank pully last year with a junk new part, I would rather pay more for a company that is not afraid to charge the money it takes to make a high quality product for something as important as the HB.

Any engine vibration I just envision my rubber all junked up and adding huge stress on the crank...

Hell, I use to blow 400 bux at the strip club and not think twice :)

Where is a good source to get a SS xover? I'm a SS junkie.
 
Hearthrob exhaust makes them for ss diesel supply, JC Whitney and has their own distributers also. http://www.heartthrobexhaustinc.com/ The list of their distributers is on their web site in case you would rather not buy from walt. Warpspeed and diamondeye also make stainless pipes. Find them on e-gay.
The cost of the fluidamper is crazy high but the quality of the parts store and gm[chineese] leaves a lot to be desired. $400 is cheaper than $4000 for a engine. Peace of mind can make it worth it. Now if they only made a desent pulley too.
 
Anybody seen a DIY thread on the pulley and HB removal and replacement?

I just want to do them too.

Sorry for the hijack Matt.
 
Veg_Out said:
Anybody seen a DIY thread on the pulley and HB removal and replacement?
Click to expand...

Replacing the damper is not hard. Basically, you remove the fan belt, then 4 bolts holding the pulley. To remove the bolt holding the damper, you have several options. Some use a chain or other contraption to hold the pulley. I suggest a different method. It does require removal of the crossover & flywheel cover though. My crossover will come right out, if its been in there forever in snow country, well you may not be so lucky. In any event, wedge an old main or rod bearing shell in the flywheel teeth so it will stop the engine from turning. Some use a screwdriver, but the bearing shell really is the way to go. Then remove the bolt from the damper. Any cheap pulley remover from the auto parts store will remove the damper. To reinstall you should use a damper installer. Do NOT beat the damper on! If you don't have an installer, I could sell you one or let you borrow mine for the shipping cost. Next you tighten the nut (200 lbs. Feet, as I recall, but check to be on the safe side.) I use locktite as well. Remove the bearing from the flywheel. Then examine the pulley as its rubber bonded as well and they do go bad, just like the damper. I use locktite on the 4 bolts, torqued to spec. Install the belt, cover & crossover and you are done. See, not hard at all!
 
Sounds good. So I'll plan to do my cooler lines / xover first, that way my xover comes off easy to wedge something in there. SS hardware will be used for this without doubt.
 
bobbiemartin said:
Replacing the damper is not hard. Basically, you remove the fan belt, then 4 bolts holding the pulley. To remove the bolt holding the damper, you have several options. Some use a chain or other contraption to hold the pulley. I suggest a different method. It does require removal of the crossover & flywheel cover though. My crossover will come right out, if its been in there forever in snow country, well you may not be so lucky. In any event, wedge an old main or rod bearing shell in the flywheel teeth so it will stop the engine from turning. Some use a screwdriver, but the bearing shell really is the way to go. Then remove the bolt from the damper. Any cheap pulley remover from the auto parts store will remove the damper. To reinstall you should use a damper installer. Do NOT beat the damper on! If you don't have an installer, I could sell you one or let you borrow mine for the shipping cost. Next you tighten the nut (200 lbs. Feet, as I recall, but check to be on the safe side.) I use locktite as well. Remove the bearing from the flywheel. Then examine the pulley as its rubber bonded as well and they do go bad, just like the damper. I use locktite on the 4 bolts, torqued to spec. Install the belt, cover & crossover and you are done. See, not hard at all!
Click to expand...


as a side note if you have a manuall tranny all you have to do is put it in gear and use an impact to break the HB bolt loose dont spin it to far you will end up with a leaking radiator dont ask how i know:nonod:
 
I did my oil cooler lines before i did the solid axle swap and it was a pain. I dropped the front diff and it was much easier.
 
chevyCowboy said:
as a side note if you have a manuall tranny all you have to do is put it in gear and use an impact to break the HB bolt loose dont spin it to far you will end up with a leaking radiator dont ask how i know:nonod:
Click to expand...

Tried all the recommendations to hold the HB in place while removing or torquing the retaining bolt, stopping short of messing with the flywheel. I then came up with a simple solution anyone can do. Using one of the bolts used to hold the pulley install it through the flat end of a demolition pry bar with the curved end braced against the frame cross member on the side of the HB the force will move it towards. That will lock your HB against the frame and you will be able to break the bolt free or torque it to the requisite 250 lbs. All done from the front of the engine with no need to get underneath and remove crossove to get at flywheel and all that entails.:thumbsup:
 
Acesneights1 said:
I've always gotten the Damper bolts right out with an IR 231 Gun. Obviuosly don't use that to put it back on.
Click to expand...

My "shop-air" only gets to 125psi and it doesn't stay there long, just a 10 gallon good sized construction compressor, but poor automotive compressor. Small bursts its fine.

I use my buddies shop air large 220 at 160psi and its scary in comparison.

Many people install HB's with impact.

I've seen the ol'd starter chirp a few times back in the garage days too...
 
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