New carpet install ?

[hookedup50]

I have the entire interior out of the truck with the exception of the dash, which has been reinstalled after HVAC blend door replacement. This is the first vehicle I recarpeted, that the old carpet is completely intact, and could be used as a pattern for cuts for seat mounts, center console, rear air ect. Is there a reason I should not precut the carpet indoors and take out to the truck, thats sitting in sub freezing temps. The new carpet will cut like tree bark if done outside. What do you think? Thanks.

 

[ak diesel driver]

most carpet is molded to fit the contours of the vehicle. I take it your not using precut/molded? Won't lay very well

 

[hookedup50]

Its molded, but not precut. Thats usually how the ACC carpets I've gotten in the past come as well. I'm gonna mark pattern from old one with chalk or mask tape and play it safe by cutting in truck.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Why would it be molded and not precut? Sounds odd

 

[hookedup50]

I've always wondered that, but all the mass backed molded carpets I've gotten over the year are just that. Molded but not precut.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Out in the cold say below 70 deg f is a bi__h. I recently did my Burb flooring w/polyvinal after about 2 years w/just DuraBac install on floor. The DuraBac is MILSPEC naval deck coating with UV protection and non skid surface.

The heat load from the diesel exhaust required I used a good quality heat barrier so DEI tunnel shield "1.750 deg f direct heat rejection" was installed in front footwells and under seats then down passenger side followed by seal cell sleeping mats 6 all toll then the polyvinal flooring over that. I did not use the jute as it absorbs water and causes all kinds of issues from mold to rust if water does get into the mix then I just remove the door opening floor sills and laet blower sit on for awhile to dry it up!

 

[hookedup50]

FT, thanks for reply. I was thinking on scapping the jute for the same reasons you stated. It causes more trouble than the sound it deadens. My rear window was leaking and the old jute weighed 80 ish pounds,and was frozen to floor. I'm going a similar route as you on the install. I might see 60 degrees today, so today may be the day. I won't see 70 till the end of April. I'm at a standstill on welding in cab corner as I have to get a better cab corner stamping. Seem LMC planned on me to glue panel over rust. I'm hoping sherman panels have a little more metal so I can plug weld properly. If I had known, I would have ponied the cash for the whole GM panel, cause the extra work I have for fitment would have offset the GM cost for OEM. Live and learn, have a happy New Year.

 

[FellowTraveler]

The closed cell sleeping pads come in a variety of thickness and insulate much better! As the metal panels go do it right and don't look back. I find using salt neutralizer is the best defense against rust it can be had through marine supply and even eastwood.

Happy New Year back to you!

 

[hookedup50]

IMO welding in panels is only way to go. I've seen videos were SEM p[anel glue holds better than a weld, but don't care. Even though I live in the rust belt, the panel and inner structure rotted cause the rear windowseal leaked while the truck sat awaiting repower. I would have seen wet carpet otherwise and tracked down source. I'm torn as whether to reinstall a new ratwire and foam sound proofing back in that panel. Everyone blamed that foam, but not the water source. I'm gonna do the other side in warmer weather as its just bubbling and will save lots of work getting on it now. Then have the truck reshot. Then I can get back to 6.5 repower on my Jeep in my sig. I'm gonna go and get sleeping pads tomorrow, thanks for the input.

 

[FellowTraveler]

If foam is not closed cell it will act like a sponge and rot everything around it. A good barrier like DuraBac or other bed-liner will increase quality of repair and complement the closed cell foam insulation or whatever else you decide on.