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New 6.5 owner from Australia

R

Rams

New Member
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Location
Australia
Gday all, as the title says I'm new to the forum and am keen to learn the in and outs about the Chevy 6.5.

I have a Nissan GU Patrol down here in Australia of which I have installed a Chevy 6.5 turbo P400 into. My biggest problem is that down here no one knows much about these motors and it is extremely difficult to get good and correct advice in regards to correct parts and tips in regards to them. The motor itself is fitted with the DB2 injection pump and Garret turbo. Even the little things like which water pump etc is hard to confirm the right parts as the auto shops here in Aus ask for the year and vehicle type but I have no idea what the P400 was actually out off as it appears the normal 6.5 was in them all. Haha.

Anyway I look forward to finally getting some real experience from you all and some good how too tips
Cheers And merry Christmas, Rams
 
Welcome to TTS

AFAIK the water pump from a factory 6.5 will bolt on to the P400, people in the know will give their input. Order the 98 HO bolt on fan, pump or the 99 HO balance flow screw on fan, pump, depending on what you need. The 99 pump delivers a better balance of coolant to each side.
 
NVW said:
Welcome to TTS

AFAIK the water pump from a factory 6.5 will bolt on to the P400, people in the know will give their input. Order the 98 HO bolt on fan, pump or the 99 HO balance flow screw on fan, pump, depending on what you need. The 99 pump delivers a better balance of coolant to each side.
Click to expand...

Cheers this is the sort of information that I love. Haha. Nice to just be able to chat and get the right info from people that know. I believe that I got the right pump as the motor has the high output water pump which I believe is different to the majority of the normal 6.5 engines as its a serpentine belt as well as the high output (Rhein thermostat) It would appear that I can't screw this part up as I'm told that the pump will not plum up correctly of its the lower capacity pump as the hoses etc come out in different areas. (I was worried that they would supply the lower capacity pump and as a result I would start to have over heating issues. I hope the info I got was correct.

Cheers again
 
The pumps are the same, they will bolt on to any year 6.5. What is different is single or dual thermostat housings. 96 is the year where they went from single to dual T stats. Some say the older single actually worked better. I only have a running truck with the single, hopefully I'll have a running dual setup soon.
 
NVW said:
The pumps are the same, they will bolt on to any year 6.5. What is different is single or dual thermostat housings. 96 is the year where they went from single to dual T stats. Some say the older single actually worked better. I only have a running truck with the single, hopefully I'll have a running dual setup soon.
Click to expand...

I have been told, right or wrongly that the 6.5 water pumps can be reverse flow as well and the standard pumps are designed to pump like 80gph where the HO pumps pump around the 130gph hence why I was concerned haha. I believe they also have different fan bottling depending on the model/year eg. 4 bolt fan and 6 bolt. I'm lucky as I believe mine came with the Duramax fan installed. I was of the belief that the output pipe of the HO pump was in a different position to the standard pumps but I'm most likely mistaken.
 
IIRC the reverse flow is the difference between the "V" belt and serp. belts. V belts were used on the older 6.2. The 4 or 6 bolt difference is with how the clutch bolts to the fan. IIRC
 
Sweet thanks. So is there a easy way to tell the HO 130 gph pump from its lazy cousin do you know
 
I have a 98 HO pump on my 95, It has a raised "HO" on the pump. I believe it is 130 gpm, just not a balanced flow pump.
 
The only way to know is if the fan screws on it is the ho & balanced flow. 4 bolt can be regular or ho, but not balanced. If the front of the pump says "h0" it is. Otherwise you're I have to remove the pump and measure the diameter.

Being a p400 and not the same radiator as the pickups, you could run either the single or dual thermostat, but may have to play with it to ensure proper flow.
 
Rams said:
I have been told, right or wrongly that the 6.5 water pumps can be reverse flow as well . . .
Click to expand...

The only thing that I am aware of as 'reverse' about your truck and the rest of the 6.5L world (including the P-400) is that y'all have the steering wheel on the wrong side :)

Yes, there are some differences from a Detroit 6.5L and P-400 motor, but they are pretty much all on the inside of the motor and the block's metallurgy composition. The externals of a Detroit and P-400 will port back and forth, so in the example at hand, the water pump from a Detroit 6.5 will mate to the P-400. So will the intake manifold (IIRC except for the military version), exhaust manifolds, harmonic balancer, injection pump, injectors, glow plugs, valve covers, etc . . .


Seeing as you are in the Land Down Under, might consider getting rid of the Garrett and going with this:
http://bulletcars.com/superchargers/chevrolet/chev-6.5-litre-diesel-supercharger-system.html

Given it fits within a Toyota with the 6.5L, am sure it will fit under a Nissan's bonnet :D
 
JayTheCPA said:
The only thing that I am aware of as 'reverse' about your truck and the rest of the 6.5L world (including the P-400) is that y'all have the steering wheel on the wrong side :)

Yes, there are some differences from a Detroit 6.5L and P-400 motor, but they are pretty much all on the inside of the motor and the block's metallurgy composition. The externals of a Detroit and P-400 will port back and forth, so in the example at hand, the water pump from a Detroit 6.5 will mate to the P-400. So will the intake manifold (IIRC except for the military version), exhaust manifolds, harmonic balancer, injection pump, injectors, glow plugs, valve covers, etc . . .


Seeing as you are in the Land Down Under, might consider getting rid of the Garrett and going with this:
http://bulletcars.com/superchargers/chevrolet/chev-6.5-litre-diesel-supercharger-system.html

Given it fits within a Toyota with the 6.5L, am sure it will fit under a Nissan's bonnet :D
Click to expand...

Thanks but having the steering wheel on the wrong side still beats riding kangaroos to the shops. Haha. The people that originally started to put the 'Eatons' supercharger on the 6.5 was the same people that did my motor. They had so many issues with the screws chipping etc that they ended up going broke. After they did my motor they actually started doing twin turbo and single turbo setups as a result of my conversion. Mine was the first turbo they ever did as prior they were all supercharged. I must admit they do look neat and tidy with the supercharged. The company that took over is like the parent company even though they were separate business.
 
I just check my water pump and it's got "M 01" on the front. I assume it's a 2001 pump but can anyone tell me what the 'M' is all about. I can't find any "HO" on the pump so I'm thinking that this pump is the standard capacity pump hence why I am now having heating issues when towing a big load.
 
Welcome to TTS, cooling systems on these 6.5's vary as mentioned in previous posts once you determine what setup you have there are other issues that need attention like airflow around radiator stack top & sides that I've found should be sealed, is there a fan shroud, air flow through the cooling stack at speed is a consideration too open wheel wells and any open area behind front bumper to radiator can and does allow air-flow to stall through cooling stack once issues like these are determined to be your issue then consider the venting of hot under hood/bonnet air at speed is important too.

Coolant is a consideration; standard ethane glycol and water (EGW) the water boils quickly around valves in IDI diesels that causes steam inside the IDI diesel which causes steam pockets and cavitation as the heat builds beyond acceptable limits.......this is why I use water-less coolant (EVENS) no water to boil however you need a good cooling stack to remove the heat pulled from waterless coolant.......however consider turbocharge turbine size if too small can cause unwanted back pressure and compressed air charge w/o properly sized CAC can cause super heating leading to excessive coolant temps..
 
Do you have egt and iat gauges? To see what FellowTraveler is saying, first your egt goes up, then iat, then ect.

I've done many stuff big engine into smaller vehicle, and our desert heat here is intense. If you measure ect going into and out of radiator, that can help work out if it's a flow issue.

Can you post pics of radiator, fan, Etc. with tape measure in place to give us an idea of cooling capacity for comparison?

I know you said duramax fan you think, let's make sure. How old is the fan clutch? 5 years from new to the trash can is standard anywhere in our desert area on any engine.
 
T
Will L. said:
Do you have egt and iat gauges? To see what FellowTraveler is saying, first your egt goes up, then iat, then ect.

I've done many stuff big engine into smaller vehicle, and our desert heat here is intense. If you measure ect going into and out of radiator, that can help work out if it's a flow issue.

Can you post pics of radiator, fan, Etc. with tape measure in place to give us an idea of cooling capacity for comparison?

I know you said duramax fan you think, let's make sure. How old is the fan clutch? 5 years from new to the trash can is standard anywhere in our desert area on any engine.
Click to expand...
hanks guys. I'll get a few photos when I get off night work. I've had the engine in for a few years now and the mechanic found water coming out the tell tale hence he put a new pump on it. I never had a issue with the heat until the new pump went on so I was thinking wrong pump or loose belt. I've got egt and boost gauges and they are in the normal range. The only time it previously got hot was if I pushed up hills and the egt rose high but as it gets hot now there in the normal area. It just seems to be a flow issue. The fan clutch was on my mind but the mechanic said it was ok. Wats the best way to test them guys? The motor would be about 3 or 4 years old. Sounds like I should get a spare. Haha. What's the best heavy duty/ hot climate towing fan used up your way? It I get a part number/ vehicle- year I can order it from the States when our dollar becomes valuable
 
Hello, glad you joined TTS and good to email with you the other day.
Got any pictures of your engine? Id like to see the Tstat set up.
Ive not seen the M1 markings? maybe an aftermarket pump?
I can get you the balanced flow pump, clutch and Dmax fan, but like I said the shipping is going to be a killer.
You might look into a freight forwarding service. I ship all the time internationally to customers that use them.
 
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