• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Need rear brake and seal advice 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel This started because the emerg

Bearings and races are of a matched pair as they wear together. Never leave the old race in and just replace the bearing as this will create an uneven contact face between the rollers in the bearing cage and the race. Its nothing you and I will see by the naked eye, but it has been known to cause premature bearing failure (Can you figure out how I learned that one?)

Bearing races can be removed with a slide hammer and appropriate set of jaws. I do believe even harbor freight sells said kit. Of course, Snap On sells that kit too but... $$$

Which snap ring are you having trouble removing? The orange one as soon as you pull the axle shaft?
 
The snap ring that holds the outer bearing in the hub. I wasn't actually having any problem with the bearings before I pulled the drums.

I noticed the left hub seal was out so I changed that, greased/oiled the bearings and re-installed.

On the right side I took the hub off just because it would be easier to change the shoes with it our of the way. The seal was just starting to go bad. Almost unnoticable leakage had occurred. I didn't notice the leakage til after I pulled the hub and saw the seal wasn't up to snuff.

When I pulled the inner bearing it was excessively loose. Here is where I may have screwed up. I replaced the inner bearing & seal only. No race and no new outer bearing. I just greased & oiled everything and put it back together. It got me to Kansas and back.

We torqued it to 50lbs and backed off to the first key slot available. Specs out of my 1996 GM book.

I am using a a home made socket for the hub nut. Does anybody have a part number or source for a quality unit. I threw this one together rather hastily and without many tools. Not my best work. It's usually cheaper to buy a tool, as apposed to making it, if you figure your time worth anything. The socket works but doesn't seem as stable as it should be when on the nut.

I have a few slide hammers. I think I'm half brain dead. Half the time or more lately. I'm hoping that goes away because I find it highly irritating
 
Well your just having a grand old time aren't you. As far as getting the right spanner socket (which is a good idea), you can go to PepBoys and pick one up from them. Its called a "Spanner Socket" If I remember right, the 14 bolt model has 6 notches on the snapper nut that preloads the bearings right? Do yourself the favor and pick that socket up. It will save you alot of trouble.

As far as getting the snap ring off, one can usually use two small flathead screwdrivers. Use the first one to lift part of the snap ring up, and the other to slide it towards you. It takes a bit of finesse, but it does work. It sometimes helps to put a small "kick" in the middle of the one screwdriver you will be using to pull the snap ring towards you. It makes the work quite a bit easier.
 
That much of a pain huh? More than likely you will damage the spindle by going after that snap ring with a hammer. Can you post some pictures of your progress? I just want some visual to compare against that we are both on the same page. That little orange snap ring really isn't all that hard to get off...
 
:eek: Ouch. Yeah that will usually grab your attention in the wrong way. God to hear you got it off. Any other issues?
 
Back
Top