• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Need rear brake and seal advice 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel This started because the emerg

J

jrsavoie

Recruit
Messages
9,770
Reaction score
8,499
Location
Rural Clifton, Illinois
Need rear brake and seal advice 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel

This started because the emergency brake when released was no longer pulling the brake pedal all the way up.

I tightened the inline adjuster and it snugged the brakes up but it still did not seem as though the cable was being pulled back far enough.

After adjustment the emergency brake was fully engaged at about half pedal.

I pulled the drum off suspecting something amiss with the springs on the emergency brake cable.

The drums measure 12 7/8" I.D.

I found an oily mess.

How do you pull the axle on this truck? Does it just slide out or do you have to pull a clip in the rear end?

What are the best brake parts and seal to buy? And where to buy them? Part numbers?

Is there something that I might need to do to the emergency brake cable? Is it common to have to replace the return spring?

Is there a good thread someplace with pictures?

Last eight of the vin RJ384037

Thanks
 
on a 3500 you should have a full floater axle. pull the 8 bolts from the end of the axle shaft and it will pull out once you break the seal holding it to the flange, the seal is only rtv so a flat head screwdriver will seperate it all.
 
Make sure the breather hose is open,..often the cause of a leaking axle seal.
Pull the hose from the barb at the pumpkin and check,..mine was plugged solid there when i replaced a leaking seal a couple weeks ago.

PS,how was you able to pull the drum and leave the hub on on a fullfloater?
I had to hammer the studs out before i could replace the drums.
 
Bison, the "second generation" of the corporate 14 bolt uses drums that slide over the studs and are held to the hub by the wheel / wheel studs. The first generation was the one that had the drums held to the backside of the hub by the wheel studs and required banging out the studs / pulling the hub to service the brakes.

I do agree about checking the breather element just for safe keeping. Should be mounted up where your steel brake line turns to a flex hose going to the rear axle.

To get the hub off
-pull the axle shaft (8 bolts?) on the outside of the hub. The part that usually sticks through the wheel and or is covered by a wheel cap.
-Get the appropriate axle socket (which I believe is a 6 point...) and back the spanner nut off the spindle. Note thats there may be an orange colored... snap ring...thing that acts as a safety for the outer spanner nut. Pop that off.
-Remove the locking collar that was right behind the first spanner nut (has numerous holes in it along with a grove that fits over the woodrifts key on the spindle.
-Remove the second spanner nut that pre-loads the outer bearing and holds the spindle on.
-Pull the hub.

Install new wheel seal.
Pack bearings with grease for good measure.

For assembly,
-Give a generous coating of high quality grease to the spindle and slide the hub on. It will be normal for the hub to "sag" till you get the inner spanner nut to pre-load the inner bearing.
-Pack the outer bearing with grease and slide it onto the spindle into the outer bearing race. Note the "tit" that stands on the inner spanner nut that was against the bearing. This needs to be facing outward (towards you). Thread the inner spanner nut onto the spindle and run it in by hand with the spanner socket till it seats the outer bearing into the race.
-Spin the wheel (or have someone do this for you) and with the wheel turning you will have to use a dial torque wrench to set the pre-load on the bearing. I don't have the spec with me at the moment but I will see if I can get it for you by tomorrow AM.
-Install the locking ring with all the holes in it(you can stop spinning the wheel). One of those holes is going to line up with the "tit" that is standing on the inner spanner nut. Note that more than likely you will have to tweak the spanner nut just a hair tighter in order to get the "tit" to fit through one of those holes. Because I have never done an axle where that damn thing actually slides right in the first time without needing to be turned ever so slightly :mad2:
-Install the outer spanner nut on the spindle and torque to X ft/lbs.( I will try and get that for you tomorrow unless someone else knows). Install the orange snap ring thing.
-Install the axle shaft (note that you will need to press downward once its about 7/8 of the way in to lift the end of the axle shaft up and into the differential carrier splines. You will also need some rotating action as well to line the splines up. Its a feel thing.
-Install the axle shaft bolts and torque to X ft/lbs.
-Install the wheel and check for any radial play in the hub. There should be almost NO feel-able movement. Should really only be noticeable by a dial indicator.

Enjoy a beer.
 
Awesome. Thanks

What do you know about the emergency brake cable. The cables appear to be in very good condition.

It seemed that rather suddenly, when I released the emergency brake the pedal did not return to the top. I tightened the cable adjuster and that seemed to tighten the rear brakes in general. There was still about 1/2" of slack when pushing the pedal before the pedal grabbed the cable. The brake was tight half way down. And yet when you released it, the pedal still did not come all the way up.
I'm not sure what the emergency brake springs in the drum are supposed to look like. They look OK to me, but I haven't gotten a good look at them yet.

Is there a return spring on the pedal itself?
 
Yeah I've done this a few times. Its really not all that bad. The key with any axle is to 1) Keep your work spotless. Keep things clean as if it was a newborn baby. These are oil bath lubricated bearings. Any contamination you introduce to the system will find its way to your rotating assembly and wreak havoc. 2) Follow all the manufacturer torque specifications and steps. Anybody who tells you "Just snug it up till it stops wobbling" is full of sh*t. Axles don't come from companies like Dana or Eaton and go for hundreds of thousands of miles without ever needing service because someone gave it the German torque Spec. They last because there done right.

My apologies, I completely forgot yesterday morning while I was in class to pull the specs you need for this. Should have made a sticky note. Anyways, here you go:

Torque to preload the outer bearing while rotating the hub:
-Torque to 50 ft/lbs. Back off a 1/4 turn then torque to 13 ft/lbs. (remember this needs to be done with a dial torque wrench. NOT the normal click type)

-Outer locknut is torqued to 65 ft/lbs
(End play should be between .001-.010")

-Axle shaft flange to hubs bolts are torqued to 115 ft/lbs.


Personally, I've been very pleased with Raybestos brand semi-metallic. Good wear characteristics, good durability and tolerates a decent amount of heat. They have stood the test against quite a few heavy loads behind my trucks. I just need to find some rotors now that won't warp so easily, but that isn't the fault of the pads. AC delco would probably also be a very good choice. Have you tried RockAuto yet?
 
I didn't have time to wait for shipping. Something I don't like now and hope I don't regret later. I usually pretty picky about the parts I use. I don't like doing things twice or any more often than I absolutely have to.
More money for parts doesn't always equate to higher quality. But I never cheap out to save a minimal amount of money.

I ended up going with the best that Advanced auto sells because the counter guy was above and beyond the call of duty. He delivered to my wife. Saved me a 2 1/2 hour round trip.

Thanks a bunch for the specs.

My truck only has one nut - not the one behind the wheel - on the axle.

It has the nut, key stock and keeper ring/clip
 
finally found a good number for the front cable Wagner BC130442. I think

Does anybody have the GM number?

Haven't found anybody that has one close by. Guess I'll have to wait.

I went to Rockauto and got confused http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...WAGNER+BC130442&catalog=5&partnum=BC130442&ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=acbn453pfeq8p1104krrqglbs5

AcDelco numbers 15607677, 15735528, 15735525, 15735524 & 18P976 all seemed like they might be for my truck
 
If you have the single nut, woodruff key and snap ring--bring the nut tight, loosen, tighten again then line up the slot with the next notch tighter. Slide in the woodruff key. Snap ring has one end bent, that should go inward against the key.
 
Install hub bearing nut with Socket 8954 (1) and tighten with torque wrench (2) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) while rotating the hub.
Back off nut about 30° and align next hub nut key slot with axle tube key slot and install locking key.
NOTE: End play should be 0.025 - 0.25 mm (0.01 - 0.001 inch)


Read more: 1997 Chevy: bearings..full-floating axle..locking nut?..autozone - JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/5zv...acing-inner-outer-bearings.html#ixzz283mRh7O8
 
GM mech gave me bad info!! Sorry, guess I will go out and re do mine. Thanks. By 'next' I assume you mean next loose? Maybe closest??? Might be a good bit to next loosest depending on where nut is.
 
Now I read in the GM book for 96 that the torque spec is 50 lbs, then back off to the first place the key stock will fit.

That is what we went with. At 22 lbs. the nut was beyond finger loose after backing off 30 degrees and then another little bit to line up the key
 
I'll add to the confusion.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/

I have had very good luck with Wagner Brake Products ThermoQuiet on my 1993 towing. Improved the brakes over stock shoes. Made in USA. Just put them on the suburban as well. Don't forget to turn the drums to true them up.

They will take 500-1000 miles or more depending on drum diameter wear to seat the shoes fully and give you full performance. To see this: Put an old shoe in the drum and note the contact area. then put in a new shoe. Note the contact area difference. Be careful not to re-contaminate the drum or new shoes with the oiled stuff...
 
To change a rear bearing, is it necessary to also change the race? The race looks good

Are there any special tools needed to remove the race?

I am having trouble removing the snap ring. Is there a special snap ring pliers or tool for that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top