Need help wont hot start

[WestVdiesel]

Ok everyone for the past year my truck would not “hot start” if i shut my truck off it will only start if I immediately start it back up or wait an hour or 2 depending on outside temp i do not have this problem in the winter but as summer is coming around this problem has re-risen now as of yesterday my truck is sitting in a parking lot becuase it shut off on me as if someone turned my key off and no matter what it would not start back up now a year ago i replaced the pmd and relocated it to the inside of my bumper well away from engine heat the truck lately has had rough idle but not all the time it would hiccup and almost act as if “cammed out” ....i will attemp to start the truck once i get off work in the morning usually after sitting awhile it will start up what are the possibilities it is an optical sensor problem or possibly the ESS on the pump i know the lift pump is in good working order it has a good flow of fuel to the IP also could it be my PMD again even after the relocation any help is appreciated idk what it could be i dont trust turning my truck off in fear of it not starting back up “only in the summer months” the truck is a 98 gmc k2500 6.5 with marine injectors a team turbo kojo tune 4in straight exhaust 4l80 tans i have been running this setup for a lil over 2 years now

 

[WarWagon]

You can't trust a NEW truck let alone a ~25 year old truck. Shit happens and there is more shit to happen with more electronics. Seriously get AAA/Good Sam/'ins co/ cell phone co offered Roadside tow it home' to solve the trust issues AND get rid of "need" of doing something expensive and stupid to 'get it to start' and or to make it home to save the $100+ tow bill. Call AAA and hook takes it home to where your tools are... Just saying. Done enough parking lot repairs and unlike slushy muddy snow the parking lot is a hot burner here...

You gots two problems. The most immediate is the sudden "shut off" and "It's Dead, Jim."

You may have run out of fuel. Dead lift pump, air leak, Gasoline in fuel, water in fuel and/or plugged filter: smell the fuel and then let it settle in a glass jar. Any water on the bottom or gasoline smell? Jumper the lift pump "on" and take a sample from the water drain.

PMD, heatsink, and extension cable is made/sold by who?

Check all fuses.

Do you have a Service engine and Service Throttle soon immediately at key on? Wait 30+ seconds after key off before you look again for the ECM to completely shut off or the results are random. If you do not have both lamps you have no power to the ECM = game over till you fix that.

Any codes?

Hot start issues:

First off you need 100 RPM cold and 150 RPM hot to start the engine. No, it won't hardly grind over and "Zoom" to life from a spark plug firing. Bad battery connections, bad battery, bad cables, and you can blow a brush or related connections in the starter and have it still crank at a slower speed. It's a 10 HP starter that makes more torque that your lug nuts take: it had better sound like the engine is spinning over fast. You can literally hear slower speed cranking.

Hot weather thins out diesel fuel. At some point the wear on a pump's head and rotor is so great that it can't generate enough PSI to light the fuel.

 

[Will L.]

On any hot start issue, when it doesn’t start-pour a gallon of cool water on the injector pump then immediately try it.

If that solves it, cry. It’s the pump worn out to far. Higher incoming fuel pressure will help buy some time. Usually this dies early from too low pressure via lift pump. Mount a pressure gauge where you can see while driving. Tap the fuel line between the ffm and ip.

If that water doesn’t help there, next pour on the pmd. Water cools it down and can help a bad connection inside, until it heats up again in 3 minutes. Not really a fix, but shows faulty pmd. This isn’t a prove it is good test- there is no test to prove good other than replace with known good unit.

Speaking of which- buy a second one mounted on its own heat sink and mount next to the first one- BOTH on back of the front bumper. Leroy diesel has em lifetime warranty. Then a dummy plug in the new spare to keep Connection clean. Bluehummer sells those premade. When needed for bad or testing, just move the wire over and get rolling again. Spare pmd is like a spare tire- needed.

 

[WestVdiesel]

Ok as far as the hot start issue batteries and connections could be culprit to that ive noticed a slowing down of the starter lately the pmd heatsync and cable are all ss diesel fuses are all good fuel quality and supply are good no air in lines I do have power to ecm but as far as any codes im not sure i will have to check in the morning when i get off work

 

[WestVdiesel]

Also i have tried cold water on IP and it really makes no difference thankfully i will try the pmd and look into getting a spare pmd what have you heard about optical sensor problems

 

[Will L.]

OMG. Another ss diesel victim. My name is Will, and I am a recovering ssd customer.

For the love of 6.5- get the insta-heat-swell-break-hole in piston-valve bender style glowplugs out if you have them. AC Delco 60G or Bosch 80034 ONLY!!! (I still have a couple instacraps from the last optimizer engine they killed with a whopping 21,000 miles on it.)
And ignore the ohms test for glowplugs- proven inaccurate.

Leroydiesel.com Best extension cables, lifetime warranty pmd, good heatsink. And mount it on the bumper, not the frigin intake manifold.

If your crank speed is noticeably lower, remove and clean battery cable connections first.

When you say “hot” start... how hot? You know at 220 the rings are getting smushed in cylinders 7&8, right?

 

[WestVdiesel]

OMG. Another ss diesel victim. My name is Will, and I am a recovering ssd customer.

For the love of 6.5- get the insta-heat-swell-break-hole in piston-valve bender style glowplugs out if you have them. AC Delco 60G or Bosch 80034 ONLY!!! (I still have a couple instacraps from the last optimizer engine they killed with a whopping 21,000 miles on it.)
And ignore the ohms test for glowplugs- proven inaccurate.

Leroydiesel.com Best extension cables, lifetime warranty pmd, good heatsink. And mount it on the bumper, not the frigin intake manifold.

If your crank speed is noticeably lower, remove and clean battery cable connections first.

When you say “hot” start... how hot? You know at 220 the rings are getting smushed in cylinders 7&8, right?

Hot start i mean normal operating temp and as far as glow plugs go i have bosch plugs my current pmd is in the bumper i have heard that ontop of intake is just as bad if not worse and crank speed does infact seem lower than normal what rpm is normal for crank speed perhaps i will switch my pmd extension harness heatsync and pmd its self over to leroy and i belive it is time for new batteries as well in the old girl

 

[WestVdiesel]

Should i start to cry now just got off work got back to the truck hooked up code reader i have codes P0216 injection timing control circuit malfunction P0238 turbo boost sensor a circuit high input P0251 injection pump metering control a P0370 timing reference high resolution signal a malfunction P1216 fuel sol response time to short P1641 mil control circuit....now idk if these were triggered from constant cranking and no start or if this is whats really going on but wow and im getting lots of smoke now but no start still

 

[WestVdiesel]

Ok update cranked it again fired up this time with a lil less smoke been idling now for about 10 mins fairly smoothly apears to be idling right at about 620 rpm according to my scanner dont hear any noises out of the ordinary

 

[MrMarty51]

Did You clear the codes ? If not, do dat and run the truck and see what codes comes back.
Please post back the results.

 

[Will L.]

X2, clear and see what happens.

Ensure crank speed if good, having noticed it is slower means something. The added smoke is most likely extra unburned fuel from more cranking.

Do you have a clear fuel line on the ip return to watch for bubbles? How about a fuel pressure gauge tapped between the filter and ip?

I wouldn’t replace the heat snk and pmd, but consider secondary unit mounted next to them. Swap over harness though. I dont really is expect the harness to be the fix, but I have been surprised by it fixin a couple in the past.

Remove and clean all the engine grounds, replacing ring terminals that are questionable. These being bad can create havoc, and usually at temperature extremes.

Same on battery cable ends- disconnected, cleaned really well and reinstalled to make sure full power to the starter. If you determine the cables need replacement, get a new upgraded set from PTWiring solutions or build your own mimicing his, but imo only use top post batteries. They carry more amperage for cranking, recharge easier working alternator less, and have far less issues ling term.

While the battery cables are off for cleaning, load test the batteries individually.

 

[WestVdiesel]

Ok cleared codes so far none have came back i have replaces the starter batteries and cables today truck fires much more quick will drive around more to see if it solves the starting issue as far as the random shut off goes im still lost on that

 

[WarWagon]

After the above - note, but, ignore most codes. (Except for: P0238 turbo boost sensor a circuit high input. Do you have a turbo master or other tune on it? Overboost may trigger this code.) (MIL Lamp is Service engine soon. Do you have a SES light at key on?) Get a new made in USA PMD extension cable. I suggest a new PMD as well as this looks like a PMD issue. As others above noted I wouldn't use the SSD extension cable you have even for mouse bait.

The only thing I couldn't kill was the PMD and "USA" extension cable from Leroydiesel.com. @Burning oil Just ask: I regularly serve as a bad example and could F up an Anvil.

As you are spinning slow, again, 100 RPM cold and 150 RPM hot minimum. If the batteries test good from the terminals or posts you are using, cables are good, battery ground cable at engine removed and cleaned, last replace starter. I suggest a NEW Made In USA Powermaster starter. Whatever you use make sure the rear starter brace is on or the starter will rip the corner of the block clean off. Rash of Communist China starter solenoids being used on rebuilds and they spin the engine 3 of 4 tries.

One last thought: If you find a bad battery or bad connection you likely found the problem. Still a good idea to have a better extension cable and spare PMD. I regularly blow batteries "open" between the side GM posts and the top posts. Top posts test fine but no voltage at side posts.