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need help with GMC / Chevy rear differential

C

coffeeman

New Member
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New Efing Jersey
Hey yoo what's up! New guy, first post. Ok, well I have a 1995 suburban that the pinion seal went and the rear is now making noise. Refilled with fluid, and still noise. It's my wives daily driver and I am trying to find a junkyard rear. The junkyards want around 800 bucks. Thats just crazy for a who knows how many miles rear. So my question is this. Does anyone know what rears from what models are interchangeable? Can I use a rear from an S 10? Or a Impala? Or what ever? It is a 4X4 6lug 5.7 1500 with the GT4 code 3:73 gears. I have found lots of 3:73 rears on craigslist for a couple of hundred bucks, but am unsure of the fitability. Fitability? Ummm Yah, that's not a word, but hey, I make up my own words all of the time. Especially after some beers. I become a drunken dictionary! Lol...Any help will be huge! Thanks guys, COFFEE
 
You can rebuild it cheaper than putting a different rear end under it. First push up and down on the driveshaft near the pinion and see if the pinion bearing is loose.
 
Hey, thanks for your answer. OK, there is movement at the pinion bearing. There is alot of play also in the pinion gear when I turned the yoke left and right. I just (last week) had the transmission out and rebuilt. So I checked everything while under the truck.
I hear it is very difficult to set up a rear. I would be nervous to spend a couple of hundred bucks and ruin the gear set. I am a pretty good mechanic, I've worked at dealerships and small independents for a long time. However, I have never had the opportunity to rebuild a diff. We always just swap them out. Nobody seems to know how to rebuild them properly, so they just get changed out. Pretty sad really.
Also, I can swap a rear out in about 4 or 5 hours and off I go. I can't afford to have the truck off the road for long. Kids have hockey all over jabip and wifes job and blah blah blah..
So if I was going to rebuild it, about how long does it take and what are the steps involved? Thanks, COFFEE
 
The hardest part is setting backlash. It's a good all-day saturday deal. You want to set the backlash, then use some marking compound on the teeth and make sure the gears are contacting in the proper spot. I would google "How to properly adjust a rear end" or something (Maybe something that won't be taken the wrong way by google?) and read up.

Second or third result on google: http://www.thedirtforum.com/differential.htm
 
For application info. Get the part number for your rear end. You might be able to call a dealer or check compnine.com

The if you put in the part number it will give you application information - years and vehicles.

I bought a complete rear differential rebuild kit from Summit for $400 For the 89 8900 GVW C2500.

If you are concerned about milage you might want to consider going with a higher gear like`` a 3.42
 
Oh nice, another guy that also has a hatred toward Jersey, that just made my day :D

Sounds like the guys have you pretty well taken care of. More than likely if you have a sloppy rear your best bet is to rebuild it yourself. Its less expensive, and ultimately, if you know what your doing, you know that everything is getting installed to your own standards... not someone else.

This should help you out some, This is assuming that your truck has the 8.5" rear to it. Otherwise you will just need to search for whatever rear you have at the top of the page. Reason I chose Yukon gear VS the other "el cheapo kits" Randy sells is simple. It comes with all the parts you could possibly need(shims, locktite, making compound / brush), all the bearings are Timkens, and the quality of the parts has always seemed better to me But that's my personally recommendation.:
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=1593

And here is another outstanding guide by Billavista over on pirate:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup
 
Cool! You guys gave me alot to chew on. I ask for compatibility, and I get motivational support to rebuild mine! I love you guys! I'm gonna do it. Definately nervous, but if I run into a problem, I have youz guyz! I'm going to check the links out and order the parts. Jr, if I change to 3.42 or anything, I would have to overhaul the front also. I'm just gonna go stock. 3.73. Blue, and DAD..thanks for the links. Huge help. The only tool I think I will need is a big ass torque wrench for the pinion bolt. I might as well do axle bearings and seals too while I have it apart. Oh, fun fun!
Ya Blue, gotta love Jersey. I just today had to pay an $11.00 toll to get back into this State. WTF? Our state motto should be New Jersey, come with cash in your pocket. I'll keep you guys updated on my progress. Thanks again, COFFEE
 
jrsavoie said:
Blue,
Thanks for the links. I've always shied away fro tearing into differentials. And it seems to be a pretty good buck to pay somebody else to do it.
Click to expand...

No problem. I've done about 3 or so diffs as far as setting them up. Its really not all that bad, and I'm with COFFEE when I say the first time is a real nerve wrecker. I'll be doing my forth and fifth gear change next year. Big Blue needs it. The rear AAM is getting 4.10's in place of the stock 3.73's with an air locker and the front axle will get an air locker as well, the Dana 60 already has a nice set of 4.10's in it.

COFFEE, as far as tools go:
-seal puller(looks like an ice pick, Pepboys has them for $10 bucks and its well worth it)
-Torque wrench (up to 200ft. lbs... best get the "click" style one for maximum accuracy.)
-Good sized pipe wrench (anything longer than 24" should be fine)
-longest breaker bar you can afford. (DO NOT use the torque wrench as a breaker bar... its a fast way to kill it)
-Wheel bearing grease (personally, I like LUCAS brand.)


Jack up the truck as high as you can get it, then support it with either 6x6 wood blocks or some solid jack stands as wide apart as you can get them without interfering with part removal. Keep in mind, the factory tends to torque the pinion nut to around 200ft.lbs. So its going to take ALOT of force to get that thing to break free. Its easiest if you slip the pipe wrench over the pinion yoke and brace it against the driveway or the surface your working on, when focus your weight on the breaker bar and pinion nut. PB blaster is your friend too.

Make sure when you unbolt your drive shaft that you tie it up against the frame so its not drooping on the U-joint and that there is no pre-load on the drive shaft. If you unbolt the drive shaft and the truck has its weight on it the truck is going to roll forward over you. Just be safe.
 
OK. That 4x4pirate article is crazy indepth. I was just reading it as this reply came in. Man, I'm nervous as hell! It's my wifey's truck and she carts the kids around all over, I don't want to screw it up! Man! The Yukon overhaul kit doesn't include the gear set, and I think that's what I need. Or, I should probably replace. The rear has an angry growl on both sides...accel and deccel. I really don't have the time to remove the pan, check the wear pattern and order parts..and put it back together. My wife is still driving, only slow short trips. I need it to be a one day event. I know it will wind up being more, but I am hopefull. I am worried about if there is a spun race, then I'm screwed.
 
BigBlueChevy said:
No problem. I've done about 3 or so diffs as far as setting them up. Its really not all that bad, and I'm with COFFEE when I say the first time is a real nerve wrecker. I'll be doing my forth and fifth gear change next year. Big Blue needs it. The rear AAM is getting 4.10's in place of the stock 3.73's with an air locker and the front axle will get an air locker as well, the Dana 60 already has a nice set of 4.10's in it.
Click to expand...

Are you saying you have two different ratios in the front and back? Don't they have to match?
 
Does anybody have anybody have any use for the 4:10 differential rebuild kit I bought for the 1989 14 bolt?
The engine locked up and I sold the truck before I got the kit installed.

I'm going to put the kit on Ebay soon - I've been meaning to for a year but I keep forgetting. The box is out of sight out of mind. If anybody's interested I will open the box and find the Summit part number.
 
coffeeman said:
Are you saying you have two different ratios in the front and back? Don't they have to match?
Click to expand...

My truck is a bit of an oddball :D:evil: No independent suspension here, I have a Dana 60 Solid front axle. I recently grenaded my 14 Bolt rear and upgraded to a newer AAM 11.5" rear. The 14 bolt had factory 4.10's in it. The AAM has factory 3.73's in it. The front axle is still not connected(no driveshaft yet), so gearing is irrelevant for the time being, but by next year I'll have all 4 tires under power finally.


Be sure to mention the year of the rebuild kit you have there. Believe it or not there are 2 different corporate 14 bolts. The newer ones have more ribbing on the diff as well as the brake drums sliding over the front of the hubs rather than being held on the back by the wheel studs. Not sure if there is a difference inside but the outside is quite a bit different. I just can't remember what the year cuttoff was at the moment
 
Ok, got it. Another quick question....I have found a low mile 3.73 rear for 300 bucks, but it is an 8 lug. I need a 6 lug. It is from the same model year as mine. Do you know if I can just change out the axels from the 8 lug to my 6 lug? Are slpines the same? I'm still going to rebuild mine, but I need a quick fix. This way, I can rebuild it properly without time constranets. I read that whole article and am confident that I can follow all the directions, but I see this as atleast a two or three day job. Thanks Blue, COFFEE
 
don't know if I can answer your ? exactly but there are some 1/2 ton burbs with diesel engines that came with 8 lug. If the rear end assy is the same one would think the axle shafts might swap
 
That wont work in New Efing Jersey...Communists here. I found a damaged 1995 suburban, but it was a 2500 with 8 lug. I need 6 lug..trying to find if I can use that rear and change the axles to mine. Thanks for the input.
 
Have you posted ads on the forums stating what you are looking for?
If you are planning to rebuild what you have for the time being gear ratio shouldn't be an issue. You could go with what you find.

Do you have you pull it junk yards nearby?

Here they have 1/2 price Wednesday and Sunday
 
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