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Need help with fuel filter

orrum, are you still set on WVO? After doing alot of reading, I am leaning towards biodiesel. aka taking WVO and running it through to process to turn it to actual diesel fuel.

www.biodieselmagazine.com is where you sign up for a free subscription to a biodiesel magazine. biodiesel.org is a good informative site for biodiesel.
 
GM GUY my issues with biodiesel is the processing and waste products. U r gonna get 25% of ur batch of veggie oil as waste that includes the methanol, caustic lye, and glycerin. Very nasty mess. U get 75% as biodiesel that can be run in the vehicle. U still have to do all the filtering I am doing of the wvo and in addition u have to add heat and agitation to get ur reaction to occur.

My yield is actually about 75% veggi oil I can run and 25% gravy that I can burn brush or feed dogs or take and put back in the oil dumpster when I pick up the wvo. If I put all the gravy in a drum and settle it for a month I get about half of it as usable oil in the vehicle.

If I spill wvo the grass doesnt die and the wvo just disappears since its organic. Spill biodiesel and stuff dies and looks bad cause u cant get all the methanol out or the lye. Some folks use sulfuric acid! U can do a reclaiming thing and get ur methanol back and purify the glycerin and sell it but all that gets time consuming.

I spend 3-4 hours once a month picking up 200 gallon and then I spend two days about 4 hours a day once a month filtering it and get 150 plus gallons of fuel grade wvo. The filtering process takes about 5 minutes every hour to pump the blue jeans full of oil and pump the oil that ran thru the jeans into a tub thru a 5 micron filter and then go do something for a hour and come back and do it again for 5 minutes. Thats all the time I spend on it.

The biodiesel gells just like the veggie and needs heat in the colder weather and needs all the filters too plus the biodiesel eats up latex, rubber seals and hose! U gotta use viton hose and seals and it doesnt last forever. The FFM for a 6.5 has plastic parts....not good.

Plus u gotta test every batch of veggie oil and every batch will require a different amount of lye and methanol and u r gonna get some bad batches where the chemical reaction either did not completely finish or went the wrong way and u got a whole batch of Yuck to find a home for.

I just a dumb cowboy but I took chemistry in college 3 times before I passed and enough sunk in for me to know I cant handle biodiesel manufacture. LOL Lot of peolpe do it tho so if its ur thing I can at least help u get set up to collect the wvo and settle it and filter it. :-) Duh now I gotta do the paragraph thing. Ask Leroy about wvo, he burns it 50/50 mix with diesel in his DB2 truck. Oh yea u cant use either real easy in a truck unless its mechanical IP.
 
Leroy what is $70? Does the new filter mount and filter have a heater?


Here is one of the FFM's. you can see the plastic nut that holds heater.



This could be a very good option for a final filter and a LP pre filter. Available in 5 and 30 miron $70 with the filter and heater. Its a very good value.
 
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the biggest limiting factor for the biodiesel is the equipment. expensive stuff! WVO is basically a few drums for settling, correct?
 
Yep I use Roundup 30 gal drums and lately have gotten hold of two 280 gal square plastic Roundup cubes with a valve in the bottom that I can use to drain the gravy out of the bottom. The key is to settle it for a month and always water test every barrel. Water test by putting a frying pan on the stove and using ur finger write a z like Zorro in the bottom of the pan and turn it on high. If u see a few bubbles that go away u r ok, if u see a lot of bubbles u got suspended water, if it snaps and crackles u got lots of water. If u got water u need to draw the good oil off and let it settle again. I have never had a water problem if I let it settle for a month, but if I get into it early I have found water. Running veggie is easy but u gotta be strict about processing, there are no shortcuts or its close enough! That will get u n trouble!!!! U can spend a lot of money in it by buying centrifuges etc and process it faster but that takes the savings away for me. If u burn it straight ur IP is gonna die according to the gurus. I am burning a blend in my greasecar of 5 gal wvo, 2 qts K-1 kerosene, 1 qt reg gas, 4 oz Power Service in the gray bottle from Wal Mart. If the blend kills my trucks IP I figure as much money as I save I can buy a new evry so often, er rebuilt one.
 
GMguy Here r some pics of my wvo operation. Its very low tech and made from scraps but works. The oil is filtered by a screen wrapped around the intake pipe of the pump when I pump it out of the grease storage bins behind the restaurant and then settled for a month in the roundup barrels. Then I pump it into the bluejeans and they filter it to about 5 microns and then I pump it out of the drip bin thru the 10 micron house water filter and into the storage tank for actual usage in the Mercedes or John Deere tractors. I pump it with a 12 volt $40 diaphram pump I get from Tractor Supply, its meant to pump on a lil garden pull sprayer they sell, b sure to get one with a demand switch. Oh yes dont pump off the bottom of the restaurant tank or of ur barrells, look @ what is being pumped out and decide if u r n the gravy or not. U can start out pumping shallow and lower ur intake pipe as u go. A flashlite shines thru the wvo and u can actually see the gravy layer as u get close to it. The better job u do pumping at the restaurant the better and more yield u get from the oil. I cold filter the wvo thru the jeans cause that way u catch most of the animal grease, it cant pass thru the bluejeans. Some people heat the wvo to make it filter faster but then u will have the animal grease gelling things up. Make sure ur restaurant doesnt use the solid white veggie shortening cause u cant use it1 That kind and another pourable creamy kind will not work!!!! Its all in the details GMguy.
 
I did WVO for the same reasons as Orrum. I don't want Methanol or lye anywhere around me.
I processed my basicaly the same. I have 55 gallon drums at the resturants, when I get there I just dip out the top layler of oil with a 5 gallon bucket. I used to use a pump, but eventualy you are giong to make a big mess. Dipping for me is way faster also.
I let it settle for as long as 6 months sometimes then pump off the top layer & let that settle again. Deppending how the oil looks I'll drip it through a couple coffee filters (using a irrigation drip mist system) or just take it straight to my final filtering drum. I let it recirculate through a 5 micron filter for four hours. When that done pump it through one more last 5 micron fiter into the two tank system on the truck.
Once its on the truck it go's through yet another onboard filter just before IP (DB2)

I've gone 60,000 miles on it with no problems. Again my set up is a heated two tank system, but I would also blend wvo in the diesel tank.
I could travle 5000 miles on oil before I need to fill up on diesel again because I am only burning a quart of diesel on start up and shut down/purge.

The Key is to filter then filter some more, when your done filtering then filter it some more.
 
Where is the heater? I like that better than the 6.5 one cause its a spin on one with water separator and heater nand a drain!!!!! I want that.
 
The heater in post #15 is supossed to drop in the top of it. This is what my supplier told me, but I don't see any wires in the picture. I'll call to make sure he had his info straight and post back.
Also, the filter is not really a spin on, its like the 6.5 ffm with the big plasic nut to hold filter inplace.
 
OK confirmed again, the heater in post 15 will work in the filters in post 20, SO if anyone needs anew heater for the oem FFM it will work or if you want to buy the complete kit.
I think that must be one of the best values I have seen in a long time. You get the mount, 5 or 30 micron filter and heating element.
 
Got some more really cool info. (As an "option"= more money) You can use a hand primer or heater, your choice in the top of mount, but not both at the same time.

And/or you can run a WIF sensor or a clear bowl, your choice on the bottom of filter, but again not at the same time.

I like these items so much I will make a new post about it in the 6.5 section.

$120 WIF sensor
wix wif sensor.jpg
$50 Clear bowl
View attachment wix clear bowl.bmp
$40 Hand primer
View attachment wix hand primer.bmp
 
I am very sorry I will have to eat some of my words. I had a gut feeling I was getting the wrong price. What aggrivates me is I called 3 times to confirm and each time was told the same thing, And that was that the heater did come with the the filter assy. Well now I was told they do not. I knew it was to good to be true.
Anyway here are the prices.

Basic filter assy w/mount and 5 or 30 micron filter with drain and 1/4" in/outlet ports $70

The rest are options.
Heater w/harness & oring $75
Hand primer $ 40
WIF sensor kit w/dash light and harness $ 120.
Clear bowl $50

As you can see the heater cost more than the basic filter w/mount.
Again I'm sorry, I hate when that happens.

Leroy
 
Its still a good value, just not the awesome deal I thought it would be.
I'll let you know when I have Walbros in hand. Should be Sat or Mon
 
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