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Need EFI live explained

rmlbzduramax

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Hi all, Bought a 06 LBZ Duramax about 2 months ago. Came with EFI live and dsp5 switch. Seemed like it had no power at all and was black smoking bad, checked for boost leak only to find the cold side pipe wasn't even in the rubber coupler and had to get a new turbo clamp. Once I fixed that problem it had a lot more power and didn't black smoke as much. It is still not running up to par though, some pulls still lug black smoke and still feels like its at a loss of power. I want to get it retuned but idk how with the efi live, whether its self tuning or just buying a whole new efi live setup. I think I have the autocal that plugs into the truck and I could read codes and clear them but when I click on download tunes or anything it doesn't do a thing. (It has a good amount of codes throwing at me like U0100,P0101,P0405,P0700,U0106, and P0118) Also when I click on the data option or other button it gives me the names of previous owners who payed efi live for tunes. I would think if they already paid shouldn't the truck be running pretty good, but again I know nothing about tis efi live. Owner that I bought it from knew little of what was done to it, but from my discoveries and there knowledge, it has a egr delete, shifter kit in transmission, and S&B Intake(I put new filter on). + it is straight piped. I also thinks it needs at least 1 injector because it white/blue smokes and then stops after warm. Could attach pics of engine bay, as there is wires that were supposed to lead to a speaker system but previous owner looks like stopped midway.
 

Rockabillyrat

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EFI live has two pass though devises. The Autocal which is loaded with a tune and flashed into the truck. And the Flashscan which allows the user to read the ECM calibration, modify it, and reflash it into the vehicle using the EFI live software. I have a Flashscan at work and we use it quite often.

You can purchase a new tuning file from a tuner and load it onto the truck with the Autocal. But if I'm writing over an existing tune with a new one I like to reflash the truck back to stock THEN reflash it with the new tune file to avoid any issues.
 

rmlbzduramax

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How would I Reflash? Taking into to dealer? Now that I'm remembering I believe the previous owners said they either got a new ECM because it was "fried" or flashed it. Do you know of any reputable shops that have good tunes I can flash in without breaking the bank?
Maybe I'm just running the truck without a tune and just the delete because of flashed/new ECM.
 

MrMarty51

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I have noticed that there is a bunch of files on the front/home page. Scrolling all the way, almost to the bottom. Latest resources.
Are those files for a tune ? Something that could be loaded into an ECM ?
I think one of them says for 2004 LLY without EGR or some such.
 

Rockabillyrat

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The dealer or any good aftermarket shop can reflash the ECM back to stock. I use a Snap-on Pass Through Pro 2 which allows me to do factory reflashing and programming. But if your ECM has been replaced and no one ever tuned the new ECM you can go ahead and reflash it with a tune file with no issues. I only go back to stock if I'm writing a new tune over and old one that I didn't originally flash into the truck.

The old ECM is licensed to the old tune on the autocal so you will need to purchase a new vin license to retune the truck. As far as tuners go I write my own, but I've has good luck with tunes from Dans Diesel Performance, and Starlight tuning on customers trucks that bring their own parts.
 

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Efilive, wether it is a V2 or an autocal is a tool that allows you to read what is currently in the ECM, and flash in custom tunes. The tunes are as good or as bad as the person writing them. Efilive does not do tuning, only offers the tools to do custom tuning, so you are not seeing where people got tunes from them, but from other custom tuners. And be VERY careful just loading tunes in as you can brick your ecm or do serious engine/trans damage doing so.

The main difference between a V2 and an autocal is the V2 allows you to either flash in pre-made tunes or build your own. The autocal gets linked to a tuners V2 to flash in that tuners tune files, if you want to flash in different tunes, you have to get the tuner your autocal is linked to unlinked, and then linked to the new tuner. Right now with the EPA crackdowns, finding tuners is getting difficult as they are getting shut down left and right, so efilive offers an unlocking service to unlink your autocal for $50.

I've never had problems loading in new tunes to flashed ECM's, doing extra flashes just increases your chances of something going wrong or messing up an ECM during flashing, so just make sure you do a full flash with the new tune so that all writeable portions of the chip are flashed over. The important part is to make sure a clean base file FOR YOUR TRUCK is used for your modified tune to be flashed in(not all tuners did this, many fly by nights would use the same tune for dozens of trucks that they stole from a different tuner, high end tuners tended to make sure the correct files were used). And I would avoid the dealer as there flash process is well known to not play nice with tuned ECM's.

There is a very steep learning curve with efilive as small changes can make big differences, change the wrong table, and say bye bye to your trans, or engine. Judging from your code list you have some data com issues with the U codes, p0101 is a maf correlation error, p0405 is an egr flow code, p0118 is dealing with the coolant temp(most likely t-stats), but the p0700 means the tcm has requested the service engine soon light to come on meaning you need to check the tcm for codes, but from the sounds of things and the black smoke, it sounds like you've overpowered the trans, and limped it.

I would start by reading ECM AND TCM codes as the p0700 tells me you have codes you haven't read yet. Then find out if the ECM in it is stock or tuned, and if it is even linked to your efilive device(also make sure what you have, V2 or autocal). Efilive has a forum and they can walk you through the steps to check what you have.
 

rmlbzduramax

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Efilive, wether it is a V2 or an autocal is a tool that allows you to read what is currently in the ECM, and flash in custom tunes. The tunes are as good or as bad as the person writing them. Efilive does not do tuning, only offers the tools to do custom tuning, so you are not seeing where people got tunes from them, but from other custom tuners. And be VERY careful just loading tunes in as you can brick your ecm or do serious engine/trans damage doing so.

The main difference between a V2 and an autocal is the V2 allows you to either flash in pre-made tunes or build your own. The autocal gets linked to a tuners V2 to flash in that tuners tune files, if you want to flash in different tunes, you have to get the tuner your autocal is linked to unlinked, and then linked to the new tuner. Right now with the EPA crackdowns, finding tuners is getting difficult as they are getting shut down left and right, so efilive offers an unlocking service to unlink your autocal for $50.

I've never had problems loading in new tunes to flashed ECM's, doing extra flashes just increases your chances of something going wrong or messing up an ECM during flashing, so just make sure you do a full flash with the new tune so that all writeable portions of the chip are flashed over. The important part is to make sure a clean base file FOR YOUR TRUCK is used for your modified tune to be flashed in(not all tuners did this, many fly by nights would use the same tune for dozens of trucks that they stole from a different tuner, high end tuners tended to make sure the correct files were used). And I would avoid the dealer as there flash process is well known to not play nice with tuned ECM's.

There is a very steep learning curve with efilive as small changes can make big differences, change the wrong table, and say bye bye to your trans, or engine. Judging from your code list you have some data com issues with the U codes, p0101 is a maf correlation error, p0405 is an egr flow code, p0118 is dealing with the coolant temp(most likely t-stats), but the p0700 means the tcm has requested the service engine soon light to come on meaning you need to check the tcm for codes, but from the sounds of things and the black smoke, it sounds like you've overpowered the trans, and limped it.

I would start by reading ECM AND TCM codes as the p0700 tells me you have codes you haven't read yet. Then find out if the ECM in it is stock or tuned, and if it is even linked to your efilive device(also make sure what you have, V2 or autocal). Efilive has a forum and they can walk you through the steps to check what you have.
Thanks! this will help me a lot. I have a couple questions that i have an idea what the answers are but not 100%. I feel like there were tunes once in the truck and in the autocal, is there any way I can figure out who the tuner that provided those tunes to the previous owner? Also how do you know if your ecm is flashed or stock? Is there any way to do it rather than going to dealer or buying a new ecm?

For the codes...
p0101= I cleaned the MAF so wondering if its because it needs to be correctly tuned.
p0405=No clue what to do for the egr flow code
p0118= as i drove the truck home the thermostats got stuck and heated the water temp high but shut it off immediately before it blew, it did blow up the gauge so I'm wondering if its something to do with that.
p0700= I had an idea that it was because of a positive lead hat led to nothing, ultimately shorting it out. This weekend I may change the oil and filter in the transmission and see if there is any positive effect there.

I'm pretty sure I have the autocal. How would i know if the autocal is linked to the ecm?
 

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FRANKENBURBAN
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Okay. That is what I was thinking.
I see there is a factory tune for the 2006 GM diesel. One for the van and one for the trucks.
@rmlbzduramax might be able to download that file, clear out his ECM then load in the factory files.
If he has an autocal, that is a negative. The autocal can only flash what is sent to it by the V2 or V3 it is linked to sends it. Think of it as a handheld tuner, but it loads custom tunes from a tuner instead of canned tunes from the manufacturer.
 

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Thanks! this will help me a lot. I have a couple questions that i have an idea what the answers are but not 100%. I feel like there were tunes once in the truck and in the autocal, is there any way I can figure out who the tuner that provided those tunes to the previous owner? Also how do you know if your ecm is flashed or stock? Is there any way to do it rather than going to dealer or buying a new ecm?

For the codes...
p0101= I cleaned the MAF so wondering if its because it needs to be correctly tuned.
p0405=No clue what to do for the egr flow code
p0118= as i drove the truck home the thermostats got stuck and heated the water temp high but shut it off immediately before it blew, it did blow up the gauge so I'm wondering if its something to do with that.
p0700= I had an idea that it was because of a positive lead hat led to nothing, ultimately shorting it out. This weekend I may change the oil and filter in the transmission and see if there is any positive effect there.

I'm pretty sure I have the autocal. How would i know if the autocal is linked to the ecm?
P0700 can be bad. You need to scan the TCM specifically for codes to see why it requested the mil. You will need to read out the tune that is in it currently, then you can check the operating system number for starters, if it ends in a 05 it is an efilive dsp5 tune file. Most of the checking needs to be done with the autocal and the ecm. I never did anything with the autocal as all the trucks I tuned were with my V2, or with there V2, that is why I recommended going to there forum as they can look up the serial numbers and walk you through how to check everything.
 

Rockabillyrat

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Thanks! this will help me a lot. I have a couple questions that i have an idea what the answers are but not 100%. I feel like there were tunes once in the truck and in the autocal, is there any way I can figure out who the tuner that provided those tunes to the previous owner? Also how do you know if your ecm is flashed or stock? Is there any way to do it rather than going to dealer or buying a new ecm?

For the codes...
p0101= I cleaned the MAF so wondering if its because it needs to be correctly tuned.
p0405=No clue what to do for the egr flow code
p0118= as i drove the truck home the thermostats got stuck and heated the water temp high but shut it off immediately before it blew, it did blow up the gauge so I'm wondering if its something to do with that.
p0700= I had an idea that it was because of a positive lead hat led to nothing, ultimately shorting it out. This weekend I may change the oil and filter in the transmission and see if there is any positive effect there.

I'm pretty sure I have the autocal. How would i know if the autocal is linked to the ecm?
Is your EGR cooler deleted or blocked off? If so that's why the p0405 is set. It can also set the p0101 because the ECM looks at MAF data to determine if the EGR valve is working. The p0101 can also set if you have a high flow air cleaner and a straight pipe exhaust. The extra flow can cause the MAF to think there is an issue. Alot of times I change parameters or tune out the P0101 code all together on a Duramax. Both those codes can be fixed with tuning.

The p0118 is coolant temp sensor circuit. Bad thermostats set a p0128. That could be an issue with the wiring or the sensor its self. You said it got hot on the gauge. Did the engine seem like it overheated? It could be a sensor issue telling the ECM is running hot when its really not. That can also cause alot of running issues if the ECM thinks coolant temp is higher than it really is.

and I agree with Ferm you need to look into that p700 more. you could have some transmission issues going on

I've also never done too much with the Autocal but I would think you can read the calibration and operating system information off the ECM that's currently in the truck. All my EFI live experience is with the V2.
 

rmlbzduramax

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Is your EGR cooler deleted or blocked off? If so that's why the p0405 is set. It can also set the p0101 because the ECM looks at MAF data to determine if the EGR valve is working. The p0101 can also set if you have a high flow air cleaner and a straight pipe exhaust. The extra flow can cause the MAF to think there is an issue. Alot of times I change parameters or tune out the P0101 code all together on a Duramax. Both those codes can be fixed with tuning.

The p0118 is coolant temp sensor circuit. Bad thermostats set a p0128. That could be an issue with the wiring or the sensor its self. You said it got hot on the gauge. Did the engine seem like it overheated? It could be a sensor issue telling the ECM is running hot when its really not. That can also cause alot of running issues if the ECM thinks coolant temp is higher than it really is.

and I agree with Ferm you need to look into that p700 more. you could have some transmission issues going on

I've also never done too much with the Autocal but I would think you can read the calibration and operating system information off the ECM that's currently in the truck. All my EFI live experience is with the V2.

Not sure if its deleted or blocked off. Possibly blocked off. It is straight piped and has a S&B Intake. Therefore, proper tuning would prob eliminate a lot of the codes like you said.

On the way home from driving the thermostats were getting stuck and finally got stuck for good causing the water temp to reach max on gauge, I then pulled over and shut the truck down, let it cool and then installed the thermostats I bought the day before. Started the truck back up and the water temp gauge was then not working and was reading what the temp was when i shut it off. Went to a NAPA and bought a manual gauge and directly wired it to where the sensor for the water temp gauge went. The manual gauge works and shows correct running temp of truck. You might be onto something with the ECM thinking the temp is higher than it really is. I already bought a new sensor for the water temp and tried it thinking it would fix gauge but didn't so i put old sensor back in. What im wondering is if i put the new sensor for water temp back in, it might help the ECM not think that?

As far as the transmission goes, im going to try and change the transmission fluid + filter this weekend and see if the fluid is dirty or has anything in it. From what im finding this is the cheapest pray-for-fix solution.

I also checked my autocal again tonight, and it gives me the name of the 2 previous people that got it tuned and then when i hit ok it says $ and then a number... ex. $0502. Also when i hit view recorded data or anything like that nothing happens and i can only use the autocal to view codes/clear them and see the previous owners names with the $number.
 

Rockabillyrat

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ECT is a major input for the ECM. It will adjust fueling, timing, ect.. all based on coolant temp. I would inspect your wiring if s new sensor didn't fix it. I see alot of issues with wiring on the front part of the engine on these.

Never a bad idea to confirm what the ECU is seeing for ECT in data and not rely on the instrument cluster. Gms are known for cluster issues especially the gmt800.
 

rmlbzduramax

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I'm guessing to see what the ecm is seeing for the ECT dat, I would have to take it to a diagnostic shop. Today, i checked transmission fluid, looked pinkish and wasn't very dirty, and nothing was it in. Still contemplating changing the fluid and filter. I also took out the rear seat because there was a aftermarket subwoofer installed which was very moldy and not connected but had a couple live wires just sitting under the seat.

I am thinking that those wires trace back to engine bay and ultimately effect the wiring to tcm or the wires for tcm are damaged because of the installation of subwoofer. The wires under the hood look pretty discouraging as there is a positive wire ran to nothing covered by tape just sitting over the middle of engine, and there is a computer box for all the wires near the driver side battery.
 

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$0502 is set because not all of your autocal software is up to date. You probably downloaded newer software than the autocal was last used with and haven't updated all of the autocal files.
 

rmlbzduramax

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$0502 is set because not all of your autocal software is up to date. You probably downloaded newer software than the autocal was last used with and haven't updated all of the autocal files.
Oh ok, i think i understand. My autocal didn't come with a USB wire to plug to computer only to the truck so im out of luck there.

I do have some pretty key info on the trucks codes in a few hours. My dad took the truck down to a friend of his who does diagnostics and scanned the ECM and TCM. There were 16 codes, he printed those out and then reset all of them and 9 came back immediately so im guessing those are the more urgent/significant ones. A couple that i know are the globe plug module and the right-front ABS sensor. Ill update on the others.

Plan to tale out front seats and maybe console and trace back all wires to engine and see if that is the issue or if theres just random stuff under there, which i have a feeling there is.
 
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