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Need advise asap truck starts then stalls

Rocky059

Rocky059

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
27
Location
Walnutport Pa.
I had a friend replace my fuel lines and fuel cooler on my 2004 LLY 6.6 DURAMAX it ran for 12 miles stated fine several times then a day later i went to start it up it immediately stalled then couldn't get it to start. I primed it but had to pump fuel peddle to eventually get it started have no clue on where to start and even worse living on a disability income. tried to save money having a friend install now i wished i spent the extra at least they might have looked into why it won't star anyone have a clue? thank you for any information have a great day!
 
Don't crank over 30 seconds with a 2+ min cool down or you will add a starter to the repair parts cost! If it doesn't start in three 10 second tries it needs repair before it's gonna start. Again "Hope it magically starts" while grinding the starter and batteries down gets expensive and you tow it anyway. At least prime it between starting attempts if you are desperate and replacing the starter and ruined batteries is an ok cost risk.

If the priming procedure is releasing air you have something sucking air that still needs to be fixed or fixed again.

I assume you had a problem starting before this work was done and 1) Created additional air leaks. 2) Didn't fix the original air leak problem.

Are you using a Krap Wix plastic body fuel filter? Wix fuel filters suck air at the weak assed WIF sensor threads.

The fuel filter housings crack often and suck air. The primer seals also fail and suck air. The primer seals are available as an aftermarket kit. GM sells you the entire housing only.
 
Will L. said:
Undo and redo the connections. Chances are thats where it is sucking air.
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the guy that tried to save me money said oh probably fuel pump but in cant go sinking money after parts that it could be although wouldn't be bad idea to get new one i wouldn't even know how to disconnect line i looked he didn't even put return line in mount to keep it off motor i think i need to find someone willing to come and scan for codes this mechanic never worked on diesels he doesn't understand it could be several different things thanks for advise though ill mention it to him to see if he'll come over n reconnect lines
 
WarWagon said:
Don't crank over 30 seconds with a 2+ min cool down or you will add a starter to the repair parts cost! If it doesn't start in three 10 second tries it needs repair before it's gonna start. Again "Hope it magically starts" while grinding the starter and batteries down gets expensive and you tow it anyway. At least prime it between starting attempts if you are desperate and replacing the starter and ruined batteries is an ok cost risk.

If the priming procedure is releasing air you have something sucking air that still needs to be fixed or fixed again.

I assume you had a problem starting before this work was done and 1) Created additional air leaks. 2) Didn't fix the original air leak problem.

Are you using a Krap Wix plastic body fuel filter? Wix fuel filters suck air at the weak assed WIF sensor threads.

The fuel filter housings crack often and suck air. The primer seals also fail and suck air. The primer seals are available as an aftermarket kit. GM sells you the entire housing only.
Click to expand...
no i never had problem with it starting before repair i just seen fuel drip on front of tank and cooler was rusty had lines patched in past so i figured i wanted to do it right got the line kit n cooler from GM and i have AC Delco fuel filter i don't cheap out on such thing because truck must last for my life i just wish i had checked response before i tried cranking it again today i did prime it in between but i believe i cranked an few seconds over 10 not many thank you for your advise i really appreciate it I'm just at witts end here
 
WarWagon said:
Don't crank over 30 seconds with a 2+ min cool down or you will add a starter to the repair parts cost! If it doesn't start in three 10 second tries it needs repair before it's gonna start. Again "Hope it magically starts" while grinding the starter and batteries down gets expensive and you tow it anyway. At least prime it between starting attempts if you are desperate and replacing the starter and ruined batteries is an ok cost risk.

If the priming procedure is releasing air you have something sucking air that still needs to be fixed or fixed again.

I assume you had a problem starting before this work was done and 1) Created additional air leaks. 2) Didn't fix the original air leak problem.

Are you using a Krap Wix plastic body fuel filter? Wix fuel filters suck air at the weak assed WIF sensor threads.

The fuel filter housings crack often and suck air. The primer seals also fail and suck air. The primer seals are available as an aftermarket kit. GM sells you the entire housing only.
Click to expand...
War wagon i checked no code but the primer bolt is leading original plastic i ordered brass replacement i'll check it tomorrow thank you for your info
 
Rocky059 said:
his mechanic never worked on diesels
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You going to pay to "educate" this mechanic on diesels? Find a local diesel shop that knows a diesel from their sisters t#@%&. Read the reviews of the shop on Google. Even ask your local GM dealer. Frankly it's cheaper to pay more per hour for less hours from good experience.

IMO this is a simple air leak, but, this rig lacks a "fuel pump". The fuel pump is in the injection pump. So the entire line from the CP3, fuel filter, to the tank is under suction. Here is where you are paying a gas mechanic to learn diesels. :facepalm:

As you have a fuel leak and rust it's likely the fuel pickup pipe may have a rust pinhole in it. The tank may need to be dropped.
 
WarWagon said:
You going to pay to "educate" this mechanic on diesels? Find a local diesel shop that knows a diesel from their sisters t#@%&. Read the reviews of the shop on Google. Even ask your local GM dealer. Frankly it's cheaper to pay more per hour for less hours from good experience.

IMO this is a simple air leak, but, this rig lacks a "fuel pump". The fuel pump is in the injection pump. So the entire line from the CP3, fuel filter, to the tank is under suction. Here is where you are paying a gas mechanic to learn diesels. :facepalm:

As you have a fuel leak and rust it's likely the fuel pickup pipe may have a rust pinhole in it. The tank may need to be dropped.
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Thank you after i had it done i realized saving 350.00 dollars will now cost me twice as much lesson learned
 
I finally got her running just hope it stays running a friend told me to prime the hell out of it with bleeder valve closed I did plus I had put a boost on batteries so i'm going to get 2 new batteries before i put interstate batteries in because there is a distribution center up the street unless someone has a better choice . i however never really had a problem thank you for all you advice everyone I really do appreciate it beyond what you can believe .
 
It's cranking slow due to bad batteries? That's a good catch as diesels need a minimum RPM to start, period. Not spinning fast enough means not enough heat to light off the diesel.

You are better off with AGM batteries as the crank faster and charge faster after extended cranking attempts. I am NOT a fan of Optima batteries in diesels because they can't take the heat. Many of mine have cracked and leaked at the unused posts.

You will have to fix the air leak if you still have one.
 
Rebuild that primer head. As to batteries, I've had good luck with interstate for 15 years on my Duramax trucks. I know there are several other good brands but if you have a local distributor that has blems, you can save a bundle.
 
btfarm said:
Rebuild that primer head. As to batteries, I've had good luck with interstate for 15 years on my Duramax trucks. I know there are several other good brands but if you have a local distributor that has blems, you can save a bundle.
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btfarm someone told me to prime the hell out of it with bleeder nut closed for like 30 times crank it then repeat i did then hooked up battery boost it cranked over so far so good I did use blem batteries from interstate had them in since 2017 i was going to go back up when i get paid and get 2 new ones just not sure if i should stick with blems for 40.00 or spend twice as much for none blemished ones money is an issue but I don't mind spending a little more to make sure truck runs when wife takes it to work on snow days, i to had luck with them other then one occasion with my lemon i mean Pontiac torrent . can anyone tell witch battery is the main crank battery on 2004.5 driver side or passenger side . Thanks again everyone!!!
 
Does anyone recommend doing an EGR delete or isn't that necessary ,i didn't do any modifications with the exception of removing catalytic converter an muffler . Or will that cause any damage ?
 
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