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Nasty Clunk From Front Driver Side Area

It's probably somewhere in the steering. I've got some loose stuff in mine that make a few clunks on turns into parking lots and on slow turns over rough patches. I think it's the nature of these IFS trucks. Especially with the T-Bars up. Next time I'm due for tires it'll be time for a front suspension rebuild. 'Course I just turned 190k today so I EXPECT wear...
 
Ball joints are checked by jacking up the truck and then using a crowbar under the tire prying up and letting off while feeling the tire for movement. Lots of grease to hide movement with so little weight applied... thus the need for a prybar.

Idler arm or pitman are was showing wear at last alignment on mine so I will check that closely.
 
I'll try to get a Video of it Tomorrow.

While I was Under the Truck Today, I Looked at the Front DS Shock, and the Lower Bushing is Dry Rotted and Cracking, but the Sound that the Truck makes, just doesn't Sound like it would be Made by a Shock.
 
Ok, so the Clunk is happening more often now. Whatever it is, is obviously Wearing more. The Noise isn't Louder and I can't Feel it anymore than before, but it's happening more.

I'm starting to Think it may be the Pitman or Idler Arm.

How do I Check them for Wear? I have the Cognito PISK as well.

IF it turns out to be one of them, I'm gonna Replace them with MOOG Parts, and prob. get the Super Diesel Straight Center Link so I can get rid of the Cognito PISK.
 
On the Last Page, it looks like he Found his Clunk, and it Turned Out to be a Shock Mount Bolt that was pretty damn Worn, in an Unusual Way.

I'm 99.9% mine Sound isn't Shock Related, but I'll take a Look.
 
Mad Maxx said:
On the Last Page, it looks like he Found his Clunk, and it Turned Out to be a Shock Mount Bolt that was pretty damn Worn, in an Unusual Way.

I'm 99.9% mine Sound isn't Shock Related, but I'll take a Look.
Click to expand...
With the amount of rust you are getting from salt I wouldn't be surprised if it was something like his.
 
I'm getting a very similar "clunk" noise from up front. I'm going to have to go under the truck and see if I find anything. But my first guess is it might be my steering shaft. Borgeson makes an aftermarket upgrade for it if that is the cause. I'm getting mainly when I come up to a parking space or to my driveway, and I back up into it (which I do almost anywhere I park at). The truck comes to a complete stop, shift from Drive to Park, and the wheel turned to the right when I hear it. It's not everytime, but I'll guess I hear it 6 or 7 times out of 10.
 
GM came out with an updated version a while ago. I had mine done at the dealer, and they replaced the original with the updated version. I heard that the same thing was happening to the Borgeson shafts.
Just FYI.
 
I Replaced my Steering Shaft Last Year with the Updated one because that's what I thought my "other" Clunk was, which turned out to be the Caliper Slide Pins not having the Rubber Bushing.
 
Ok, so now I'm Leaning towards this being a Torsion Bar Problem.

While Power Washing my Frame, I Hit the LCA's where the Torsion Bars Seat in them. I Blasted them as Good as I could to get whatever Crap there might be in there, out.

Today, I didn't get a Clunk from the Driver Side, but now I did from the Passenger Side. No Louder of Different than it's Clunked before.

So I Jacked the Truck Up, took the Torsion Adjuster Bolts all the way out on Both Sides, Drove the Truck Down the Road and Back to let the Suspension Settle. Still Clunked...Lubed the Hell outta everything on the Torsion Support Bar in the Middle of the Truck, put the Bolts back In the way they were, and while I was Tightening them, I could See the Keys Moving, Front to Back, rather than Rotationally, a Decent Amount.

Are the Torsion Bars and Keys a "Wearable" Item? Meaning could they get Wore Down enough that they are Causing the Clunking I'm Hearing & Feeling?

If so...should I Order New Torsion Bars and Keys in Hopes that it will get rid of the Clunking?

If I do get New Torsion Bars, should I get the Upgraded OE ones? I Currently have the GL Bars (8782 Max TQ). Should I get the XG Bars (9054 Max TQ) to help Compensate for the Weight of the Winch Bumper?

I'm so Lost over all this, my Head is Spinning.
 
Looks like the XG Bars are a Bust.

I Found some Threads that People have Problems Installing them on 2500HD's (they are 3500HD Bars). They said they had to Spin the Bars 180* (Install the Front-End of the TB into the Cross Member) and Install them on Opposite Sides (L Bar on R, R Bar on L). Then when they Loaded them Down with a Plow or Bumper, they actually Sagged MORE than the GL Bars, and needed even MORE Cranking to Level the Truck.
 
I don't really know how those wear so I'd try to get educated as best I could before making a call on repair/replace.
I do know the OEM stuff seems to last pretty long.
 
Ordered New Green Keys for now to See if that Fixes it.

They are the Cheapest Option so far at $60 for New OE's.
 
Well...it's Fixed.

Since it's actually kinda Cold here and I won't Die from the Heat, I Decided to REALLY Poke and Look around as to WTF this Clunking is.

Long Story Short, the 2 Motor Mount Bolts (that I had "Checked" by a Shop 2x and were told everything was Tight), were Loose. 1 was Hand Tightened, the other one was Snugged.

Tightened them Up, Checked the Pass Side, Started the Truck, put it in Gear, no Clunk.

So...let's Hope those 2 Loose Bolts were what was Causing it.
 
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