What is that little do-dad that comes off the the thermostat housing and looks like some quick push in for coolant to go on to the back of the passenger side engine where the coolant line's Tee's are connected? Mine is leaking slowly...
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Name that part... cooling system thermostat housing
- Thread starter knkreb
- Start date
JMJNet
Recruit
Coolant crossover quick disconnect. You can replace that with 1/2" NPT to 3/4" or 5/16" barb.
I replaced mine with another quick disconnect, it started leaking in less than 2 years again.
Here is from the other site:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138989
I replaced mine with another quick disconnect, it started leaking in less than 2 years again.
Here is from the other site:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138989
Acesneights1
New Member
I'll post a pic later. I used a compression to NPT and then a Hyd hose with a 90 to a NPTxAN. It came out really nice. Those quick connects are junk. There is an oring in there that deteriorates.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
Yes, that feeds the heater,
These little devils can be a real BEOTCH to get out of the crossover.
An easy out will usually not work and can make a real mess.
The best way to get these out is to remove the crossover and get it in a vise so can get at it.
Carefully cut the quick connect off about 1/4 inch out from the crossover.
Now using a die grinder and a small carbide ball bur, cut the quick connect through its length at two places on opposite sides.
Be careful so you dont cut down into cossover itself.
You will start to see the very edge of the threads start to show as you grind the two cuts into the little connector.
Once the cuts are made, use a caping chissel and a small hammer and tap the edge of the pieces and break them out of the crossover.
Once the pieces are out, clean out the threads with a pipe tap (dont Hog it out, just clean the threads)
Install a fresh quick connect from NAPA and use a steel one. Use some high temp silicone sealer on the threads and your good to go.
I have cut out many of these little !@#$%^ and the process described has always worked well without issue.
Doing this on the truck can leave crap in the crossover that you dont want in there.
Your aluminum coolant feed tube may clean up (on the end that fits the connector) and be useable, or if the sealing surface is all corroded you will need a fresh one.
Or you can use a barbed fitting (with a restrictor) and some hose.
Hope this helps.
Missy
These little devils can be a real BEOTCH to get out of the crossover.
An easy out will usually not work and can make a real mess.
The best way to get these out is to remove the crossover and get it in a vise so can get at it.
Carefully cut the quick connect off about 1/4 inch out from the crossover.
Now using a die grinder and a small carbide ball bur, cut the quick connect through its length at two places on opposite sides.
Be careful so you dont cut down into cossover itself.
You will start to see the very edge of the threads start to show as you grind the two cuts into the little connector.
Once the cuts are made, use a caping chissel and a small hammer and tap the edge of the pieces and break them out of the crossover.
Once the pieces are out, clean out the threads with a pipe tap (dont Hog it out, just clean the threads)
Install a fresh quick connect from NAPA and use a steel one. Use some high temp silicone sealer on the threads and your good to go.
I have cut out many of these little !@#$%^ and the process described has always worked well without issue.
Doing this on the truck can leave crap in the crossover that you dont want in there.
Your aluminum coolant feed tube may clean up (on the end that fits the connector) and be useable, or if the sealing surface is all corroded you will need a fresh one.
Or you can use a barbed fitting (with a restrictor) and some hose.
Hope this helps.
Missy
Acesneights1
New Member
i had no problem at all. I disconnected it and then used a 1/2 drive deep 6pt socket on it on the truck. It came right out. That is why I used the funky fitings i did. I sized the ID to match the original QC fearing it may be an issue but I have seen many people use a barb with no restrictor without issue. I would not use another QC. Seen too many come apart at a bad time.
Time now T+ 5hrs from snapping off of the quick connect fitting.... It only takes about 5 nano-ounces to snap one off... it can be accomplished by any handy 4 year old... if you need one, I can rent you my 4 year old for a nominal fee... Of course the clock did not stop for a few phone calls, and two get away Basset hounds that wanted to get a ride in a Chevy 15 passenger back home again. Yes, this is how I choose to spend my vacation....
83GMCK2500
Active Member
Is #4 the doodad you speak of?
GM Calls #4: VALVE, HTR WAT FLOW CONT (INCLS 3) (5/8 FLOW CONTROL) P/N: 15650056
GM Calls #4: VALVE, HTR WAT FLOW CONT (INCLS 3) (5/8 FLOW CONTROL) P/N: 15650056
bobbiemartin
Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide
My old fitting came out easily. Most any barb fitting would work, but I replaced mine with a brass AN fitting. I then used another brass fitting and modified it into a restrictor for the AN fitting, its the same size hole as the original GM snap in fitting. No leaks, easy to R&R if necessary and the water flows like the original.
Brass AN fitting on regular heater hose from crossover to heater Tee.
Restrictor pressed into the new AN fitting.
Brass AN fitting on regular heater hose from crossover to heater Tee.
Restrictor pressed into the new AN fitting.