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My truck is trouble. code BOMB

duramaxdude

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Location
Carberry, Manitoa, Canada
This has been a bad day for me today. Yesterday my truck shut of on me a few times and it was a bitch to start. Anyway It cleared up so I drove home and it did the same thing again. I was driving down the road and it just shut off so I started It and it jerked around but kept running. 10 sec later same thing except I put it to the floor and the RPM just slowwly dropped. When I started it up again it made this really loud rattly sound cleared up and it was good after that.

So when I went home I immediatlly checked the codes. Here is what they are.

15, 17, 18, 19, 29, 32, 33, 35, 36, 45, 54, 57, 62, 78.

I plugged in my spare PMD for a bit but it didnt make a difference. My lift pump is 6psi at idle.
 
You need to do some reading in the 6.5 Technical Reference Library.

Specifically:

a] What those pesky DTC Codes mean (look under D)

b] how to read (and clear) your codes by using a paper clip. (without disconnecting your batteries)

The link to the 6.5 Technical Reference Library is in my signature. Happy reading!

If you have more questions, c'mon back here to this thread and ask!
 
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Well I cant hook a scanner up tonight but I dont get what these codes mean.

DTC 17 - High Resolution Circuit Fault

DTC 19 - Crankshaft Position Reference Error

DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error

DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)

DTC 54 - PCM fuel circuit error

DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted

THe other ones I can see why they are on because I blocked my EGR.

I will go out and reset them and see what happens.
 
I'm not saying this is whats wrong but my 95 k2500Ld spit out a pile of codes like that the ecm was fried. Check all grounds and connections before condeming the ecm. Mine drove me crazy because the ecm was only a few months old. Luckily I didn't turn the old one in for core charge. Popped the chip in and was back in business. I feel for ya.
 
Well I dont know how to explain this but I will try my best. I drove to my buddies house and when I got here I checked my codes again. There was none other than the EGR ones that I will get till I get the chip.

The truck has been stalling in that exact same way before I bought it from my dad. Every time it stalled it would throw out basiclly the same codes I just listed. My dad originally bought the truck from my friends dad so I went to talk to him today. He said it did the exact same thing to him and all those codes would come up as well with him. He gave me a 1995 service manual with a ton of info.

What I did was take the codes and I found out that it could be a short in the harnness. Basiclly all those codes/sensors showing up are mostly in the D harnness going into the PCM. So i am going to take the dash out so I can unwrap the harness and have a good look at everything. This has been going on for a good five years already.

Also he did replace the PCM and said it didnt make a bit of difference.
 
Since you have the scematics look for a common ground or reference signal that is connected to the sensors. Sometimes several sensors use a common 5 volt reference signal from the ecm. Make shure all power supplies[there is more than one] to the ecm have power. A bad fuse connection can do all kinds of weird things also. Check all connectors for bent or pushed out pins and sockets. Be shure to read the diagnostic aids in the dtc section. Some codes trigger other codes. If you still have the filter harness for the ip on the truck ,try running without it. Heat and vibration degrade the filter harness. Try that first since most of your codes are ip codes.The filter harness is a 8 inch long inline harness that connects to the ip. It has a black rectangular box over the center of it that all the wires run through. I can get a picture of one if needed.
 
What I did was take the codes and I found out that it could be a short in the harnness. Basiclly all those codes/sensors showing up are mostly in the D harnness going into the PCM. So i am going to take the dash out so I can unwrap the harness and have a good look at everything.

Exactly the only code you need to work on.

DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted

Everything else code wise is "DUH" no 5v to work with so the sensor is not going to work. :mad2:

I would not start at the dash though. Look at all the stuff that has the 5v reference signal given to it. Unplug every sensor (that gets this 5v reference). Clear codes and see if the 57 code goes away - forget the rest of the codes. If it has one of the sensors shorted. Plug in one at a time, key on, then check for that code. Otherwise you get to start chasing a harness short to ground.

Of course check your grounds for these sensors.
 
I would start with the harnesses that are in the engine bay, they connect behind the engine up on the firewall and go under and around the intake in a high heat and vibration areas. Can start with the 8 pin connector, and then a 15 pin connector.

The EGR codes should not be present unless you have a vacuum leak, or someone took the vac hoses off or unplugged the solenoids. But one of those 5V references goes to the EGR solenoids and Baro sensor on the 8 pin harness. The fuel solenoid closure ground is also on the 8 pin harness, and you have the 35 and 36. So I would start with that 8 pin harness and pull loom back to see if its ate up somewhere. Or investigate the EGR wiring, are they unplugged?
 
I'm with bk and buddy... start in the engine bay, and my prime culprit is the wiring under the intake - the IP filter harness and the PMD harness.

Those codes only show up when things stall - makes it an intermittent short... look for a wire that's rubbed, and look INSIDE those plastic looms - they can rub wires, too. The problem was there before you did the EGR delete, so that isn't related.

We had one of these on here recently; one thing wrong can bring up a million unrelated codes; the system is not designed to properly report when there's a ground or short problem.
 
But what was the EGR delete? On a 95 EGR doesnt code unless vacuum is gone or wiring is messed up, just have to plug the vac line to the EGR and it wont code. Was vacuum pump removed? Nothing in signature to suggest.
 
But what was the EGR delete? On a 95 EGR doesnt code unless vacuum is gone or wiring is messed up, just have to plug the vac line to the EGR and it wont code. Was vacuum pump removed? Nothing in signature to suggest.

I know, but that's another question. If the truck did this with the PO, before the EGR delete was done (regardless of how it was done), then it's not the primary issue.

:D I confuse easily, so I tend to want to eliminate extraneous things...
 
I would start with the harnesses that are in the engine bay, they connect behind the engine up on the firewall and go under and around the intake in a high heat and vibration areas. Can start with the 8 pin connector, and then a 15 pin connector.

The EGR codes should not be present unless you have a vacuum leak, or someone took the vac hoses off or unplugged the solenoids. But one of those 5V references goes to the EGR solenoids and Baro sensor on the 8 pin harness. The fuel solenoid closure ground is also on the 8 pin harness, and you have the 35 and 36. So I would start with that 8 pin harness and pull loom back to see if its ate up somewhere. Or investigate the EGR wiring, are they unplugged?

I did unplug the EGR solinoid because there is a loose conection there and then i blocked the EGR while I was at it. There is three EGR codes that always come up that im not worried about.

Also the other codes dont come back only when the truck acts up. As soon as it stalls it trips all those codes. /other than that just the usual EGR.
 
But what was the EGR delete? On a 95 EGR doesnt code unless vacuum is gone or wiring is messed up, just have to plug the vac line to the EGR and it wont code. Was vacuum pump removed? Nothing in signature to suggest.

The vacuum pump is still there. I am going to fix the conection at the Solinoid and block the line to stop the code.
 
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