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My new shop

Twisted Steel Performance

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Location
Pauline, SC
I'm starting to build a new shop, 30x30 with 12' ceilings. This is inside a pole building.

It won't be insulated no a/c, if I need heat I'll install a wood stove.

I'll be using "trusscore" wall and ceiling boards. https://trusscore.com/products/wall-and-ceilingboard.html

Anyone use this product?

I'm going with this stuff mostly for ease and speed of install and also I think Sheetrock would suck up moisture and bite me in the year's to come...
 
Sheet rock would be a mistake under those conditions.

Panels look promising. Probably better than steel interior panels due to less chance for condensation.

My ceiling and dad's ceiling are white steel. Walls are painted OSB
 
Another factor was the weight for different products, osb is heavy so my ceiling rafters would need to be beefy to span 30' , I don't want any post inside, the PVC stuff is lighter so I could go 2' on ceiling rafters. This stuff is slick and shiny so it will spread light well.
 
PVC based paneling will give a nice look, the thing I would be worried about is (depending on the climate of course) the temp at which the panels start to sag. if the roof of the building is sheet metal and no insulation. the sun can build up temps in the attic enough to soften the panels over time. again not sure how the summers get up in SC, here in Texas the later part of spring time turns into "hell's front porch" I would at least use some foam board above the panels and if not already installed, some attic vents.

looked up PVC heat distortion temps and found it to be around 134-176 deg F.

Heat distortion temperature - ECVM

pvc.org pvc.org

looking at the site link you posted, I didn't see anything on temp ratings other than fire safety testing. you might order you some samples and to a heat distortion test of your own.
 
Harbor Freight sells a decent drywall / plywood lift for doing ceilings. on the air framing hammer, most all of them will accept the same type in multiple lengths so long as you don't go too long for it. say if the max it will use is 3" 8D's you can go as short as 1.5' 8D's. the only thing is you have to stay with whatever style your air nailer uses. I hate the fact there are so many different types as to what brand and whatnot. I wish it was a universal standard like hand staplers use.
 
So a little info on nails 8d are 2 1/2", 10d are 3", 12d are 3 1/4" 16d are 3 1/2". The d stands for penny which was shortened from penny weight. So nails are sold by weight and the bigger the nails the more they weigh. Also nails come in common and box. The common nails have thicker shanks. Having said that nail manufacturers now days are playing fast and loose with nail terminology.
For the most part nails for nail guns come in just a few varieties. Up here the most common are what's referred to as paper taped or wire collated or plastic collated. It used to be paper taped nails had clipped heads to allow them to stack together tightly. Code has pretty much done away with clipped head so now the heads are offset to still allow for a full head. I shoot paper tape and have for probably 40 years. I dislike the plastic and wire collated because they are always spitting chunks of the collating material at you. Plastic one are somewhat fragile but paper ones don't like rain. Give and take pros and cons. Most framing guns will shoot down to a 6d nail or 2".
If I was Chris I would use a coil nailer and probably a 6 or 7 penny nail and ring shank galvanized. The framing gun he has should work.
 
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