My 6.2/6.5 Hybrid (NSF 56K or slower)

[Anubis]

Picked up this engine for $75 off Ebay ... cost me $35 in gas to go get it. I am calling this a 6.2/6.5 Hybrid ..... but it is actually going to be a 6.2 with a DS4 fuel system and a GM4 turbo......

looks like a pile of crap..... couldn't find the casting number..... it was beginning to look like my search for a block was going to continue.

Looks can be deceiving.

Passengerside with the valve cover off. Look how clean this is

Driverside with the valve cover off.

After we (my brother was helping) got the heads off we put the short block on the engine stand.

look how clean this engine is considering it spent 10+ years in a shed.

This came apart 10x easier than I thought it would. Could not find evidence of a blown head gasket, no slop in the timing chain, and very little wear on the lifter bodies. As of yet I don't see any cracks, but I have to wait till the pistons are freed up to get the crank out........ it was nice of Detroit to hide that bolt behind the shield in the timing cover ........ Eventually found the casting number and it is a 660 block, can anybody tell me which pre-cups those are?

 

[Woody35]

nice find. guess that guy didnt know what he had

 

[Anubis]

nice find. guess that guy didnt know what he had

Thank you. I got it from Accurate Diesel. Its more like he didn't want it. He bought it from a guy that had a bunch on GM 5.7 and 6.2 diesels...... this one had sat in a shed before he got it and it sat in his shop till he sold it to me, didn't know anything about and didn't have the time to tear it down..... Nice guy, he rebuilds fuel fuel injectors for most IDI engines..... gonna make me a deal on a set for my build.......

BTW ...... if these pics are too big you need to let me know ..... I am viewing them on a 32" monitor (Finally found a use for my TV)

 

[Woody35]

he is a great guy. i bought my fuel return lines from him. good quality product

 

[ak diesel driver]

score

 

[3500GMC]

Is the #4 rod bearing spun? Better check 'er out.

 

[Anubis]

you talking about the 4th one back in the 7th pic? Could be why it was pulled......... I had planned on a complete disassembly and sending the block in to be FLuxed and Tanked ....

 

[bk95td]

Did you find the date code on the block? Never seen one with the short dipstick like that. Looks like it didn't leak much oil. You don't know if you got a good deal untill you're shure it has no cracks. Looks like it has potential. I've bought 2 sets of medallion injectors from accurate and the install kits. All good so far.

 

[3500GMC]

you talking about the 4th one back in the 7th pic? Could be why it was pulled.............

Yep. And the 6th one back. Either way you have some parts to work with. $50 is a deal.

The un-oily finish clued me in- looks like it's been hot. But, you never know.

 

[bk95td]

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=11778&highlight=precups I feel generous today. Enjoy!

 

[Anubis]

Yep. And the 6th one back. Either way you have some parts to work with. $50 is a deal.

The un-oily finish clued me in- looks like it's been hot. But, you never know.

I think in the 6th one it is a trick of the light ...... it was wet..... the 4th one back was dry though, this could be why it was pulled.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=11778&highlight=precups I feel generous today. Enjoy!

thank you.

 

[Anubis]

Did you find the date code on the block? Never seen one with the short dipstick like that. Looks like it didn't leak much oil. You don't know if you got a good deal untill you're shure it has no cracks. Looks like it has potential. I've bought 2 sets of medallion injectors from accurate and the install kits. All good so far.

that is because we had to cut it off ......... we couldn't get the exhaust manifold bolts loose so we just left them on..... the dipstick tube had a bracket on it and would not go through between the exhaust manifold and the head .....so I cut it off with a cut off wheel ........ I damaged it in the Suzuki so it was going to need replacing anyways.

 

[bk95td]

Chances are that the bolts are stuck in the manifold not the head. Heat the manifold around the bolt and impact the bolt. I've had a few that the bolt head was rusted so bad I had to pound a 1/2" impact socket on them.

 

[Anubis]

yeah ..... got to get the shop teacher to trust me with the torch ..... this is the same guy I took welding from 18 years ago ....... I have a small Wal-mart gas torch I bought for heating rusty brake lines ...... think that'll do it?

all the disassembly so far (cept the oil pan and oil pump) has been done with the impact ...... I love having access to the Academy's shop ....... going to miss that when my wife graduates and goes into the Army .......

 

[bk95td]

yeah ..... got to get the shop teacher to trust me with the torch ..... this is the same guy I took welding from 18 years ago ....... I have a small Wal-mart gas torch I bought for heating rusty brake lines ...... think that'll do it?

all the disassembly so far (cept the oil pan and oil pump) has been done with the impact ...... I love having access to the Academy's shop ....... going to miss that when my wife graduates and goes into the Army .......

Any heat will help. Whaking on the manifold around the bolts may help break up the rust. If you had all kinds of time, I'd say soak them with pb blaster.

 

[Anubis]

If you had all kinds of time, I'd say soak them with pb blaster.

the shop class is spraying them down for me ..... I get to use the shop to rebuild my engine, they get to look at the engine in various stages of disassembly, and even install it ...... with my (and the shop teacher's) supervision....... I am just not allowed to work on it during school hours (until the install) ...... I wont be able to get back to it until sunday ......

 

[Anubis]

well basketball practice was cancelled today so I got to work more on my engine...... this is what I found.... this engine was locked up before it was pulled, I doubt they drove very far on it.

#4 Rod had indeed spun a bearing. Torquing to proper specs IS important. The nunber 4, 6, and 8 rods took no effort to break the nuts loose .... as in not torqued properly..... number 4 could have been loose because the bearing was melting away... bot not 6 and 7 ..... those bearing while burned and scarred were intact.

number 4 rod bearing

number 4 rod cap

this is what the crank shaft looked like..... how far can it be turned before its junk ..... or is it junk now......

this was typical of the mains....... huh, forgot to take a pic of the main caps. But they looked brand new anyways........ so did the other 5 rods and bearings...... like not even broken in yet ....... like it spun the bearings when they were doing the run in.

don't know how I did this ..... but it left the broken piece just close enough to the top to get it with a magnet.

now to the bad........

I don't think I need to tell you what these are..........

The shop teacher thinks maybe we can drill a hole at the end of the crack to keep it from spreading and use a main stud girdle to hold it together... as long as I keep the boost down to 7 or 8 psi ..... maybe 10 max.... what do you think?

some other random pics below

 

[ak diesel driver]

Talk to MGW about her lock and stitch crack fix

 

[bk95td]

Look along the oil pan gasket surface. There may be more. Time to magnaflux the whole block before going any further. I have a "660" parts engine that had the starter broke the block. Crank may be good. I haven't disassembled the bottom end yet. Top looked good.

 

[Anubis]

whats the crank shaft weigh ...... trying to think what its worth in scrap.......

the crank shaft from my 599 6.5 is fine ..... could a 660 be machined for a 1 piece rear main seal and then be able to accept a 599 crank?......