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Mobil 1 in nv4500?

my boss ran it, dumped it all out within 100 miles. it is not approved or ok to use. maybe if it was rebuilt with aftermarket brass synchros I would give it a try.

Castrol Syntorq LT (not castrol Syntec, also different) is what you need. you wont find it branded as castrol (unless purchased in no less than a 16 gallon barrel IIRC) you will find it in 1 qt bottles at your local dodge or GM dealer.

12346190 is the GM part number.
4874459 is the dodge part number


you can also run Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube, stock number MTGQT it was designed to meet NV4500 specs, and is the only aftermarket oil that I would ever consider using in an NV4500. plus, a few site vendors sell it, or you can buy it through amsoil, and use their reference number to help them out.

I havent done a full change yet, but I am using it to top off a few leakers, and I have noticed no difference in shifting or noise, so I would personally recommend it.

finally, if your GM dealer makes those recommendations, find a new one! there are two in our local town, and the one's shop foreman thinks E85 is 85 percent gasoline. needless to say, I do all my business with the other dealer. it is a shame though, I miss picking up GMC brochures. :)
 
I've run it for about 2,000 miles and have no complaints, but I am worried about future probs so I am looking to switch. And it's pretty sad that gm gives people like that a job when there are sooo many competent people that need work that should have his job. And the shop said that the Mobil 1 is what they put in nv4500's and they haven't had any probs but I still don't trust it myself that's why I asked.
 
I used to b a huge gm fan, well still am because it's all I own and ever will but the 5.3l in the wife's burb has lowered my respect for them it is a junk motor that never should have made it off the drawling Board. I mean y would a company make a piston too small and compensate with bigger rings? It's pure stupid. I wish I could kick that engineers ass myself!!! Sorry for the rant but I had to get that out!!
 
the reason he dumped it within 100 miles (or so, might have had to suffer through one load) was the shitty shifting. the NV4500 from the factory has carbon fiber synchonizers. this is part of the reason for the special oil. no special oil, not very good shifting.

an aftermarket set of synchros could be brass, and that will behave with most oils. that may be why you are getting along fine.



as far as the 5.3L comment, I must ask, has it blown up? I would much rather have a little slack in a piston than have a piston that is too tight, and score the bore and/or lock it up.
hot rod magazine did a bit of valve train work to a 500 dollar LS junkyard motor, strapped it on a dyno with a pair of ebay chinese turbos, and IIRC laid out 1000 HP on a otherwise stock motor.

Ford triton motors dream about growing up to become vortecs. If you want to experience a truly shitty motor, buy a Triton. no power, no fuel economy, short life, the list goes on and on.

a little piston slap isnt much to worry about, the LS is a wonderful motor. couple that to the best automatics in the industry, and you got a family hauler that is second to none (ok, maybe second to a duraburb, but otherwise)
 
I TRIED to blow my 4.8 and the tranny went out twice and the engine still ran PERFECT.

I might have to look into the brass synchros. Both my NV 4500's went out and my 94's tranny had to get rebuilt 5 times so far and recently i drained the fluid out and it was 90wt gear oil (synchros are out now too).
 
I haven't heard many NV4500 horror stories of excessive rebuild or wearing out early. Most common failure is loosing 5th gear due to nut backing off from vibration. Seems to have a good reputation for durability.

The wrong oil might cause premature synchros wear. The story that seems most common is poor shifting especially in cold weather with the wrong lube. Castorl Syntorq was developed for improved shifting. Last refil I used Mopar oil because it was a few dollars cheaper than GM labeled stuff.
 
I have 2 1/2 gallons of Amsoil for my NV4500's for when I get them rebuilt. My 94's tranny lasted 220K on the original and ate 5 in the next 130K this truck was ONLY driven with a large trailers in tow, swather (17K), 17 5x6 Round bales of hay on a 40ft floater, tractor (22,000k on the big floater), and alot of fertilizer hauling. In other words the tranny never got a break and with the wrong oil it was a synchro eating beast and locked up gears due to over heating and impropper oil.

Brass synchros might be tougher than the carbon jobs that are normally in rebuilds, add high quality amsoil into the mix (1qt extra through the shift hole) and it should be better than ever.
 
Well what I'm sayin is that with the 5.3 on initial start up u can hear the piston skirt slap the cyl wall for about 20-30 seconds. And it's not just mine everyone I know that has one dose the same thing. Now tell me how many other motors have u heard do this? Because I haven't. It's been reliable other than the wife thinks she's dale Earnhardt and can eat a trans faster than u would believe. So the piston slapping cannot b good or doing the motor any good is what I'm saying.
 
My buddy has a 5.3 in a 1500HD with 4L80 and EFI live tuning. Pulls everything and anything he wants and is nearing 300K on a nearly untouched engine. Yes it knocks and so did my 4.8.

I thought is was only a problem in some of the earlier engines though.
 
Yea it was mostly the early ones but that's what I have, a 00 burb. And for cranking out 1000 hp sure it'll do it once on the dyno maybe twice even but how long will it last on the street. Not long enough to justify all the work involved in it I'm guessing. I guess I just saw no reason to scrap the 5.7
 
hey tanman, do you think that the extra quart through the shifter hole will raise the oil too far and cause excess churning and aerating? if you need extra oil capacity, as well as cooling capacity, this is what we ordered for my boss on his 4500. http://www.ebay.com/itm/251046665318?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

he was getting by without them, but figured extra protection wouldnt hurt. he only used one, and will use the other on the DRW 03 Dodge. (the one that got to haul a 9230 Steiger! :) )IIRC, he will be putting both on the left side, away from the exhaust, as long as the front driveline doesnt interfere.

there are a few others out there for more money, but IMO this is by far the best bang for the buck. Quad 4x4 has a filter system that mounts to a PTO cover that looked better than nothing, so maybe consider that.

searching "NV4500" no more, no less, no spaces yields about all the aluminum coolers you can get, NV5600 might yield a few more results as well smae PTO pattern on both, so no worries on compatability.

good luck!

@ Aaron1505 (which, btw, does that stand for 1505 massey ferguson?) I think the extra clearance was for soccer moms that fire up, and lay in it hard without allowing warm up. IIRC, they are aluminum pistons, which expand quicker than iron, so maybe a few scored motors from soccer moms may have prompted the sloppy clearance?

IDK, just heard of a guy that has an F-150 with a triton, never towed in its life, and was his baby. didnt rod it hard, or abuse it much, and cruising down the highway, it locked up. full of oil, 120K on the clock. plus all the spark plug changing fun, etc. makes me glad I am a GM owner, no matter the motor.

the one biggest pet peeve I have with the 5.7L (and it may have been only in the vortec) was akward intake clamping angles, aka, the bolt didnt go straight through the intake, and that caused a wedging effect that was partly to blame for its love of intake gaskets. IIRC, the OEM head gaskets werent very dex-cool compatable either ( I know ours sure werent). basically, the 5.7L was a good motor, but in the quest for more performance, they went to the LS series.

GM didnt abondon the 350 though, it is still being produced, and I got a brochure at a far show for an GM Powertrain 5.7L V8 power unit for use on a irrigation well. :) they wont completely kill a good thing, unlike ford, 300 inline 6 is not obtainable in any way shape or form. that is also my opinion of fords last good motor.

everything has its faults, but they are all good motors (5.7L and LS)
 
No the 1505 are my old motocross numbers my last 3 on the AMA card were 105. I ran 105,05 and 15. Had to run 105 at big events like regionals, Loretta Lynn's, and mini o's in gainsville Florida because that was my real number. Anyways the 5.7 came with dexcool but wasent a good mix like u said, just don't try to use standard coolant after dex has been in there for a while. When I bought my Yukon someone had mixed the coolants so I thought it would b ok to switch back. Wrong!! Almost Instantaneous water pump failure heater core perportioning valve and head gasket all went out. So don't try it unless u like making more work for yourself. And I didn't know they still Made it that's pretty nice. And I agree on the 4.9 ford inline 6 a pure workhorse of a motor did what it was intended good torque decent mileage and bullet proof.
 
I've read a few times its recommended to overfil the NV4500 some through the shifter.

I don't know but I think the shaft connection to a transfer case likes the extra oil by helping ensure splash lube. And heard it helps the shifting (lubes the shift tower???).

When I did my clutch several yrs ago I discovered my transmission/transfer case mating shafts had been packed with grease. The grease was dried out and it appeared the lube doesn't get to this area very well???
 
I'm sure it would help the Tcase (never thought of that) since it is high than than the fill plug. I always heard it helps cool 5th gear by providing extra oil to the gear.

Those cooling fins would be nice to try but I would still overfill it from the top! lol
 
When I just pulled mine I thought the output seal was leaking(2wd) but the bolts that hold the shifter were loose on the driver side and it was leaking pretty good. So it splashes up there fine. I only have 4 quarts.
 
schiker said:
I've read a few times its recommended to overfil the NV4500 some through the shifter.

I don't know but I think the shaft connection to a transfer case likes the extra oil by helping ensure splash lube. And heard it helps the shifting (lubes the shift tower???).

When I did my clutch several yrs ago I discovered my transmission/transfer case mating shafts had been packed with grease. The grease was dried out and it appeared the lube doesn't get to this area very well???
Click to expand...


the one that I have heard loves being overfilled is the getrag in first gen cummins', the tranny before the NV4500 in dodge's

My 4500 seems to get plenty of oil to the coupler, the t-case input shaft seal is bad, and I will transfer about a quart to the t-case.

IIRC, GM's lube the coupler, since the only seal between the two is on the input of the t-case. dodge seals on both sides, and so that is a trick to get a bit more in there is to leave the output seal out.

as far as top cover lube, dad's 98 sure pissed the oil out with just a small piece gone out of the corner of the shifter, so I think they get enough lube slung up there.
 
AFAIK, all rebuild kits these days are going to be brass (Havent confirmed this though) , and only factory New Venture synchros were Carbon Fiber. new venture has been out of business for a while now.

do a search on Blumenthals down there in your neck of the woods. I got to talk to the owner himself, late 70s early 80s, nice old guy, said when NVG went broke, they had to lease a few warehouses (14 IIRC, down to the last 2 now) and IIRC, dont quote me, 2 semis a day of parts? anyways, they have a shit ton.
they might be able to assemble a rebuild kit, and if you dont like the "scratchy" (my best way to describe the shifting) top cover of the early NV4500s, they will surely sell you a newer style top cover with the removeable shift tower.

they are the folks that sell the finned covers I linked off ebay.

speaking of that, one of us needs to find out how to pull that damn lever on 92-94s(unless you allready know). I had to hack through the floorboard with a pair of aviation snips when I pulled the last one from a junker. me personally, I dont want to cut on any living truck like that, so I need to find out how to unhook that lever.

finally, one other place to check for rebuild kits is quad4x4.com
 
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