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Marine Injectors vs Stock: New

6.5L

6.5L

Old Iron Runner
Messages
1,177
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433
Location
Northwest Wyoming
So I may have to buy some new injectors soon. Running about 150K+ miles on mine and they are starting to have some issues I think. I was contemplating a set of Marine injectors, yet I have heard they don't make a difference. Does anybody have proof they work better than stock? I really don't wish to spend the extra money if I don't have to. Also with these old injectors, I don't think they are atomizing worth crap. I get a lot of smoke, I know it's a mechanical pump with added fuel and a manual but I think there is more than there should be. What should be I be doing with the timing to make the most of these old injectors as far as performance goes until I can get new ones? Timing is about 6-8* advanced right now. Would love some advice.
 
Stock injectors that have balanced pop pressures are all that is need in most cases. If you are going for a 350HP goal or something then maybe a marine injector is what you need.

On high mile injectors I just watch my EGT's but others might have suggestions on timing.
 
Smokes what RPM? Black or blue? Black could be too much load at low RPM. Black could be too much advance. It could also be bugs in your fuel and plugged tank sock and screens. Check the FFM screen.

I know the GMx will hide a lot of things so IMO you are on the right track with worn out injectors. Just beware of pushing them too far as my avatar pic is from a failed injector.

Marine injectors don't have a good rep for doing anything and Bobbie Martin burned a set of them up.
 
Yeah,I was thinking i would end up going with stock injectors from heath diesel. Does anybody know of any other trustworthy injector sites. And it is black smoke. Heavy black. unless i am building boost if i go beyond about a third into the pedal it starts smoking. I figure with the gm hiding that issue, it came to the surface with the ATT. I can build a little less boost than i was running with the Gm but it smokes more. I run about 10psi unloaded with the ATT where i was running 15PSI with the Gm-3. 5 pounds less but the ATT flows more air so my only idea was that the gm was hiding the issue by having higher cylinder pressure that covered up the lack of atomization from the injectors. Thats a theory. Im no expert. Sumbody correct me please! During usual cold starts it would fire up fine but lately it acts like its missing until it warms up, and i replaced everything but the injectors during the rebuild. I think one might be sticking open or closed. Who knows. Ideas?
 
Yeah. I think I am gonna get a set of stock injectors. I think it would be the best. My next question was where should I go with timing with these old injectors, until I can get them replaced, to reduce smoke, reduce turbo lab, and increase power? If at all possible
 
The problem with worn injectors is that they can leak, have poor spray patterns and/or fatigued pop pressures.

Timing isn't something that is going to fix/patch/cover worn injectors...if that's what you have going on that is.

Leaking/streaming injectors will also kill an engine by burning through the piston crown in a fairly short time. Just something to think about.....

It was recommend to me by an experienced individual to go with the stock injectors for normal driving and towing.

He also said marine injectors would get me higher egts and not much else...
 
I am getting 13-18 PSI on my ATT firewalled depending on the fuel as I mix it up #2 and Biodiesel up to B99.
Below ~2000 RPM you can't load the engine, aka add lots of throttle, with the ATT. This is where the engine is running NA and gaining MPG with the ATT. I suggest downshifting. I had the tuner change my 1995 tune to downshift sooner when the load and throttle crept up from a hill.

Retarding the timing will reduce power, reduce black smoke, and put more heat out the exhaust to spool up the turbo. Crazy high advance will pour the black smoke but generate SOP more power. As the mains on my 1993 are already cracked I don't want to risk it and want to keep the smoke down. Set now I don't get much over a haze from the 1993 after it spools. Of course this is with an auto and factory shift points. 1/2 turn on the IP and walbro lift pump.

I assume you have tested your lift pump?

Have you run the advance piston in at idle with a prybar to see if it is working by making the engine stumble? Fairly common area to fail on a DB2.

Again with timing set properly I had a big smoke problem from restricted tank sock and FFM screen. Due to algae/bugs in the fuel. I'd remove the tank sock if playing with timing doesn't help.

Seriously be late on the rent or whatever it takes to get the injectors rebuilt. There are cheaper places than Heath, but, he claims to have Germany nozzles. After the made in China cr@p I ran into failing after 30K I would say that alone is worth the extra cost. $560 to get a set built at a local Stanadyne shop.
 
Yeah, I literally have no income. I am a broke as hell college student. My only income will be my tax return, which I determine to be enough to cover the cost of injectors or damn near it. I really need them. I have been trying to drive my truck as little as possible and trying to keep it from sooting and have been really easy on it.
 
any update on those heath injectors? And just a quick question. Would a higher pop pressure, say 2400-2500psi, in theory, wouldnt that help bottom end responce before a turbo lights and still smooth out the top end?
 
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