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low coolant light after checking thermostats. air?

OK, so just went out to drive a friend home quick, no start (cold). I have no tried starting it since yesterday when I drove it home. Now it just cranks and cranks. The only place this truck seems to drive me is crazy.

I guess I am reverting back to the PMD. I did buy a tested used one ($50 instead of $350), and the store I bought it from is sending me a replacement because when I started having these issues I made sure I got the part warrantied before the warranty period ran out just in case.

But here is my trouble shooting check list:
I have replaced the OPS about 2 weeks ago
PMD has been relocated with a tested used (another one on the way just in case the one i got is faulty)
Fuel pump and IP both seem to be operating properly.
T-valve checks out
When it runs it runs smoothly which should mean proper timing, good compression, and internal components are all functioning.
Good oil pressure, good voltage, temp is just under 210 when running, and it has 3/4s of a tank.
No idiot lights to suggest a computer testable diagnostic.

I am at a loss. any ideas?
 
Sorry I am posting so much on here, but I think the PMD is the culprit (or the cable), I grabbed my old PMD and plugged it in, truck fired right up. How can I test the cable? And I want to make sure when the new PMD comes I install it properly. It says it is supposed to be torqued to 25 inch pounds... but all I have is a torque wrench for foot pounds, and it doesnt go down to 2.5 ft-lbs (the 25 in-lbs equivalent). Also, is there soemthing that should be put in between my heat sync and the PMD? I remember when I took the old PMD off the heat sync its appeared to have some white pasty like stuff on the bottom, wasnt sure if it was corrosion or something the is supposed to be there.
This is the heat sync I have: http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/8.html
It came on the truck bolted to the intake as it is intended from the seller, but I read that this was not a great place to have it, and I moved it behind the grille. I figured it should still be ok to use the same heat sync, but maybe not? They do say on the site that it can be used with an extension cable to cooler location. I guess I am just trying to cover all my bases.

thanks for the help again.
 
there are some inferior extention cables which could be your problem. You could test it by plugging the PMD in that didn't work directly to the harness. For testing purposes it's ok to plug it in without a heat sync. Just don't run it very long. Use artic silver heat sync paste which is available at radio shack. Just tighten the bolts snug as you feel you can without breaking them.
 
Yes, it needs thermal grease of some sort, I prefer Arctic Silver as AK said, that helps it transfer heat in the air pockets when metals are not machined flat. The screws I tighten as much as I can with a torx screwdriver.

25 in-lbs would actually be closer to 2 ft lbs, since there are 12 inches in a foot, so divide by 12 and not 10. However, I would not worry about that torque value.

How did we get on PMDs from air in the thermostat? :)
 
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