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Lots of white smoke (video)

If you unplug the circuit from the IP it would do that, but can you just unplug the coolant temp sensor which would make it infinate resistance at which point it would think it was really cold. When its plugged in it warms up the resistance drops and switches the solenoid off?
 
It's not a resistance setup like the sensor's in the 6.5TD.

Your thinking 6.5TD in which the ECM controls the timing and uses the resistance of the temp probe to "decide" where the timing should be.

There's no ECM what-so-ever in a DB2 injection system. It's fully mechanical. I can run two wires, hot and ground, from a battery to the shut off solenoid and the truck will run and drive(unless you have an electronic trans of course) until the battery goes dead.

It's a thermal switch with two positions, open or closed. Lets say it's set at 120*F (because i don't have my book in front of me to check the actual setting). At 119*F the switch is still fully on. Once 120*F is hit, the switch goes fully off. It's a single pole/ single throw switch that's temperature activated.
 
I know theres no ECM, I just did not know the coolant sensor is the switch and cold = continuity and warm = open. That helps.

Its a test worth doing just to see if timing effects the smoke at all, not necessarily that cold advance is the only issue.
 
buddy said:
I know theres no ECM, I just did not know the coolant sensor is the switch and cold = continuity and warm = open. That helps.

Its a test worth doing just to see if timing effects the smoke at all, not necessarily that cold advance is the only issue.
Click to expand...

very true buddy. i wonder could the timing marks for the cam and IP gears are off?
 
I know this is simple but did anyone check the case pressure regulator? Little fitting on top of the housing. Little glass ball gets stuck in the housing and will act like a cold advance stuck shut.

Also if the advance piston sticks in the bore it will cause the same scenario.
 
#5 & 7 is 100psi below the rest. 250 vs. 350 on my gauge...Yay

Will a stuck injector clear out after a while?- as in, white smoke goes away some?

What actually causes the IP to pump way too much fuel when it wears out?

Cold advance disconnect made no difference in the smoke quantity, and yes this a mechanical IP in a '93.

Reviewed my timing chain install. All is good with the marks. IP, cam, crank.

Yes, new Bosch nozzels and hand lapped parts in the injectors. Pops set @ 2100.

Maybe I should yank the heads.
 
With 5 and 7 both being low, I'm betting blown headgasket in between the cylinders.

Last gasser(patooie!) that i worked on with a blown HG was a 2.2 Cavalier. Started as a misfire on cyl 4, then spread to cyl 3. comp test showed normal psi on 1 and 2(150 psi or so) and 60 psi on 3 and 4. When the head came off there was a huge gap in the headgasket in between cylinders 3 and 4.
 
There is no coolant loss whatsoever, so the cross leak between cylinders could be the cause. I'm still wrestling with the idea that I could have two hosed IP's...read, NO good backups... this sucks.

At the last firing of this heap, I cracked the #5 and #7 injector lines and didn't hear much of any change with the chugging. I even went as far as pulling the #5 injector to check for a sticky pintle, but it was free and clean. Noted a wet unfired precup, held a Mag-lite in the hole, wet.

The white/blue smoke will not clear up no matter what RPM. This points towards IP on top of the other CRAP...:mad2:

The learning curve is steep indeed.
 
small update

Welp, D-side head gasket is perfect (was perfect)... Heads are beautiful, checked all the valves and seats. Good there. This is on the 'problem' side.

#5 bore is not the greatest. Has some scratches that can be felt. I can attribute the low comp numbers to this. Can't really make myself think this would cause a misfire.

No holes in 1-3-5-7 pistons.

If it's not the IP overfueling (that's next) then I have another boat anchor.

I am gaining a wealth of knowledge the hard way.:mad2:
 
Well, I suppose you need to make sure that cylinder 1 was at TDC when you put the IP in. As I guess it may have been turned some times before you installed IP.
 
Yeah I had the front off the engine to check/review this very thing. Cam timing and IP timing is spot on. All marks align. I am confident on this.

Unless a 6.2 will run with the cam 180* out? But the dots were spot on. Cam 6 o'clock, Crank 12 o'clock. Cam key at 3 o'clock.

Impossible to install the gear any way but right to the IP hub. Marks on the IP gears are dot to dot.
 
Well shit

Dead 6.2. Yay I have matching boat anchors...:rolleyes5:

I just can't seem to hone this CRACK out of #5 cylinder.):h

Can you say DO-OVER?

click for larger pics

#5 piston
picture.php

and
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this
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sucks
picture.php
 
Did you get a warranty with the engine?

I know what a relief we had when our 6.2 repower finally ran right with the air out of the lines.

Then 3 weeks later I pull it out of a totaled truck...
 
WarWagon said:
Did you get a warranty with the engine?..
Click to expand...

Yes, but all I paid was $150.. I figure I have just that in parts. The bottom end is perfect except for the piston and block.

Bummer indeed.

I need to stop pissing around and get out the wallet and build a worthy 6.5... My goal of a good tow rig for under 2 grand is getting a little long in the tooth. Starting to get impatient.

Then there's that 454 on my shop floor....:33:
 
I know, I know...:disappointed:

Just tonight I strippd the 6.2 down to the block. Sometime within the next week I will make a trip to the local machine shop for a SLEEVE in #5. What the hell.

The easiest way out for now.
 
3500GMC said:
I know, I know...:disappointed:

Just tonight I strippd the 6.2 down to the block. Sometime within the next week I will make a trip to the local machine shop for a SLEEVE in #5. What the hell.

The easiest way out for now.
Click to expand...

Been running a 6.2 block with two sleeved cy;inders for quite some time now. Best way out.
 
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