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Lost All Dash Lights And Truck Will Not Run Need Help!

DZZ71

DZZ71

"Living The 6.5 Dream"
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Location
Alberta,Canada
I was driving home the other day and my truck just died. It cranks and cranks but no start. I have eliminated the PMD and the ECM being bad. Also checked my grounds on rear passenger head and all fuses seem okay. Now from reading it seems like I have a bad ignition switch. Now I don't feel like spending $253 on a new one if I don't half to. The parts truck I have is a 1997 3/4 tun 6.5 so are these switches interchangeable from 1995-1997? Thanks....
 
My truck did this the other day and the problem was one of my battery cables was lose.
 
Really? But it still cranked over and over? I'm pretty sure that's not the issue with mine but I will double check to be sure
 
Did you just look at the fuses, or pull them and look/clean the legs? The underhood panel has a bad habit of corroding, especially the ECM-B fuse, which would do that you're indicating.

A while back, this happened to one of the Oregon guys, as I recall, and he cleaned the panel up with NalOx and solved his problem.
 
DZZ71 said:
Really? But it still cranked over and over? I'm pretty sure that's not the issue with mine but I will double check to be sure
Click to expand...

Sorry, I really have to stop trying to help people after a long hard day at work. My brain and body is fried after work and I turn into no help for anybody.

I misread your statement. Mine was fully dead when one was lose and when I popped the hood the under hood light was on. I tightened the battery terminal and it fired right up.

:mad2:
 
Try hooking a code reader to it. If it connects and reads the ecm has power. If it doesn't.....
253$ for an ignition switch ?? From where GM ? Try Napa. That sounds very high. Never did a switch n a 95+ but it's pretty easy on <95. Donw on the column. I can't imagine the 95+ is much harder.
 
I swapped my spare ECM into it already with no results. I called parts source and a local supplier they were in that $246-$253 range. Yeah I had the same reaction about it being that much. I'm gonna try source out some other supplyers. But if I can use a 1997 ignition switch would be just great. I have 2 trucks I can get it from for free.........
 
Loosing interior lights and PCM power definately sounds like a bad ignition switch or a fuse popping that provides power to all of it. You can check if there is power at the fuses. Several should have power at all times. I dont know the underhood fuse box, but are there some big ones like a supply from the battery? Does anything inside work? radio?
 
The $250 price for a new switch is accurate[guess how I know] The 97 switch should be the same. I'd swap the whole steering column. It's easier than swapping just the switch.
 
Use to be u could pop the thing out and just jam a screwdriver in there and start it. Can u still do that or am I stuck in the 70s again? Even wire a push button starter!
 
The start contacts in it are working, so its not that the switch is stuck or anything that a screwdriver is needed, just that the internal contacts for the interior lights and PCM power are burnt or something causing it to not pass current. When its the switch, usually jiggling and repeated switching results in getting that contact, when the problem first pops up and then it gets worse. I guess when they designed this one they didn't think that the truck would be around for over 10 years or not concerned with the hassle to change it out once in its life.
 
How hard is it to swap the steering colum? I just asked a friend who has experience in body shops. He said you need a special tool for the removal and installation. Also what kinda time frame am I looking at for the swap? And for the interior lights im not to sure if they work or not buddy. It's just the dash lights that are out. The glow plugs, check engine, air bag lights ect usualy come on but I got nothing at all.
 
I don't thin k it is difficult except discharging the SRS. Be real careful with that. I don't know if my 95 manual has the procedure but supposedly if you leave the batts disconnected for atleast 30 mins it should be ok.
 
Just my old-timer opinion, but don't go changing stuff out until you know what the problem is... swapping ignition switch or changing out the column (which is MUCH easier, if you have a donor) is still much more expensive than changing out fuses.

After you have checked the underhood fuses with a multimeter and cleaned the contacts, you can get the wiring diagram for the switch plug and jumper the things you need to have jumpered in order to test it...

If that works, THEN change out the switch or column. Popows in Lacombe should have one.
 
Thanks for the responce Jifaire. I'm gonna pull the truck to the shop next week and go right through it. I'm in the process of installing my new engine in the white truck so it's pretty busy around here. Where abouts in Alberta are you located?
 
Cowtown, mostly ... on the road lots though. I had to buy parts in Lacombe once, so I know about the wreckers... I think there's 2 of 'em there.
 
Yup there is powpos and reggies in lacombe. Your a little over 2 hours south of me. Also thanks for the picture buddy. I will try that when I go through everything.
 
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