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Looking for a jig for a bell housing for a 4L80E transmission. I need a plate with th

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jrsavoie

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Looking for a jig for a bell housing for a 4L80E transmission. I need a plate with the top 5 holes laid out.
Fits a GM 6.5 diesel and many other GM's
The top center on the bell housing of my 4L80E is broken. I have the piece and it looks to be easily repaired. I need a jig to make sure the piece is welded on in the correct place
I could make one after I pull my other transmission, but I would just as soon be ready to install this one when I pull the trans out of the Suburban
 
Hello jrsavi\oie. Did you get a jig yet? If not a small black or even a spare trans case will do ver well. I would suggest to TIG both sides of the case. I also would find why it broke. I would insure the lower trans cover bars are in place and torqued right. When you install all the powertrain I would highly suggest you loosen the trans/transfer case ount to X member and lower it to "rebed" the mounts. Seen some bound mounts cause this.
I see you have a Fleet to care for. I see you use a filter on a trans cooler. I suggest to use an A/C Filter (name brand). I investigated the use of filters on the coolers while I was @ GM and even talked to the filter eng. I got a load of info on filters and on the trans use of filters. I have a L80 in my truck and elect ot to have a filter. If I had to have one, I would use a twin filter A/C PF932. It's a long PF 25/35 and a PF 1812 with no ck valve. IT does flow a little more then a PF35 and the flow is critical for LUBE oil and TCC flow. If you use a ford type fliter you are at risk. I wouldn't use a filter on mine and I still have the filter base. I changed the trans cooler lines to a 3/8 steel and run a diesel oil cooler for my trnas. Cooler is a long industries stacked plate. Trans Star has them. 80 bucks. The tube coolers are 1950's design and are not efficient. If my truck had room I would use a oil to water cooler for the highest efficiency. In my race car I used an A/C evap core with tig welded pipe fittings for the best.
Hope this helps. Engine oil coolers are not efficinet. Look at HOW the oil flows. It is based off the pressure differential across the filter.I Run a PF932 on all my engines when I can. IF you thermocouple the fittings you will see a high drop in temp. If you add a flow meter it will shiock you on how LOW the flow is. If you do the real test and thermocouple the MAIN BEARINGS and run up a 20% grade with 10k load you will see only 2 degrees drop with the oil cooler in place as it is set up in your vehicle. Run Synthetic Oil all the time and have no worries.
 
I've been running Amsoil 5w30 diesel oil since the 90's. I also always use a bypass filter T'd off the engine oil cooler line.

I've been using Baldwin BT filter for the transmissions. I can't remember the number at the moment.

The trans got broke when they were pulling the engine I wasn't involved and I'm guessing they didn't get the bolt out, but manged to pull the engine anyway. As soon as I get to it I will round up a small block and bolt the trans to it. I will have to swap the transfer case so I don't have to mess with going from push button to floor shifter. Though personally I would just as soon have a floor shifter and old fashioned lock outs
Thanks for the advice. I will get that Baldwin number for your opinion later
 
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