Long, slow build of my truck

[FellowTraveler]

Not sure. I’d be willing to bet launching in 4wd for the first time didn’t help it. It also has about 100k on it with unknown origin parts. It was originally bought off eBay as a new/reman HX40/H1C hybrid. A friend of mine had it on a 93 12 valve and put probably 60k on it. Hard miles too. The thing was getting tired id imagine.

Interesting because the HX40 is mostly known for snapped shafts then again its an hybrid.

 

[Will L.]

Do you have an inner cooler where the debris might be caught in? Wouldn’t be the first time I have seen that. In always like cac designs in semis that the tank unbolts from The core assembly for that reason. Also nice that you could tig back together cracks from vibrations much easier.
Thats one of the hazards of the hummer and van centermount desin, anything off the turbo is a direct shot into the valves. The parts fly far enough, dont even need to be blown or sucked in. At least pickups have a little diatance let the chunks fall first.

Being real holset, were the wheels aftermarket? Of they were changed did you have it balanced ?

Scares me some because isn’t this one of if not the main kind of failure everyone that buys authentic holset avoids the cko ones for?

I understand 4wd boosted launch breaking the truck components, but how should that make a difference in turbo failure unless the added shacking dislodges a part into the intake system?

Other than worn bearing, loose oil, F.O.D., I don’t understand turbo failures, providing assembly was ok.

Just say so if this is taking your thread off topic, I am on the fence right now on doing a holset or cko, so forgive my questions plz

 

[FellowTraveler]

IMO CKO failures are not any more frequent than Holset's failures I suspect Holset are commonly made in China. Wheels hitting the compressor or turbine housing is always failed bearings. Blades flying apart could be anything from poor balance to substandard materials to pushing it to self destruct.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

The first pic looks like something got in it from the front, it doesn't look like blade failure until what ever it was broke the blades.. looks like something was bouncing around in the front of the blades..

 

[btfarm]

That looks outstanding! Nice work.
I made your pics full size.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Now that I've seen an enlarged image it does look to be damage from a foreign object however; tips of blades could have simply failed breaking into small fragments due to fatigue at high wheel speed and bounced around the compressor port evidenced by the little dings before being ingested by the diesel and expelled out the exhaust.

 

[Husker6.5]

Thus, adding a little roughage to the diet!

 

[pacificdrumma]

I doubt it ate anything, it had an AFE filter on it that was in good shape. I'd put money on shaft play causing contact with the tips of the wheel, tips breaking off and bouncing around.

Will - couple things to remember with this turbo: it's got probably 100k on it +/-, it was purchased as a "new" HX40 hybrid off of ebay in Jan '12 so its anyone's guess what is inside it as far as bearings. I believe the wheels to be stock, however I do not know if it was balanced, and how it was balanced if it was. That turbo doesn't owe me anything.

 

[pacificdrumma]

I got some good work done today. I installed my T4 0.81a/r open scroll turbo from Boost Lab and fabricated a new down pipe adapter elbow. I cut the divider out of the BD Diesel T3/T4 adapter as well. Turbo side flange and clamp from SDP and down pipe side flange and clamp from Quadstar. All in all about a 3hr job, not bad at all.

The goal was quicker spool, but without overboosting on the top end. Mission accomplished. I get about 5psi at 2000rpm versus 3psi from the .91 divided housing. Even though the new housing is smaller, the open scroll seems to make up for the difference in size. Peak boost is 23psi. 20 is pretty easy, 23 you gotta push it. I was able to crack 1000* when lugging it on a hill in OD - 1900rpm/68mph/9psi. Other than that, it operates between 600 and 900* mostly. 5-15psi happens in the blink of an eye. I ran out of time to drill the manifold for drive pressure, probably try and tackle that next week. All in all very happy.

One thing I will point out, with the purchase of the new housing, my total investment in the turbo is slightly over $1000. If someone was looking to swap on an S300 frame charger, $1000 buys a 362sxe with a billet wheel, and your choice of housing. So while my setup seems to work and I think I will be happy with it, I could have an SXE for similar/same money. ALSO, I am now within $200 of a Quadstar turbo, which would be a very good option for most anyone.

Pictures on the way, as well as a video in the works.

 

[pacificdrumma]

As promised

 

[n8in8or]

That downpipe adapter looks like it will flow much nicer than your old one. Nice.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Is that a peninsular intake hat? Doesn't really look like one from the picture, but I don't know what else it could be

 

[FellowTraveler]

I doubt it ate anything, it had an AFE filter on it that was in good shape. I'd put money on shaft play causing contact with the tips of the wheel, tips breaking off and bouncing around.

Will - couple things to remember with this turbo: it's got probably 100k on it +/-, it was purchased as a "new" HX40 hybrid off of ebay in Jan '12 so its anyone's guess what is inside it as far as bearings. I believe the wheels to be stock, however I do not know if it was balanced, and how it was balanced if it was. That turbo doesn't owe me anything.

A 12 point nut usually indicates a turbine shaft that is already balancing thus no rebalance is needed if installing a balanced compressor wheel. 6 point nut indicates a required balance no matter what wheel is used.

 

[MrMarty51]

A 12 point nut usually indicates a turbine shaft that is already balancing thus no rebalance is needed if installing a balanced compressor wheel. 6 point nut indicates a required balance no matter what wheel is used.

Well that is interesting to know.
So if a person purchases the Wicked Wheel, it is probably already balanced and just needs to be installed ?

 

[FellowTraveler]

Well that is interesting to know.
So if a person purchases the Wicked Wheel, it is probably already balanced and just needs to be installed ?

You have to check with whomever manufactures the wicked wheel if its balanced or not. I know turbo labs balances their custom wheels so they are ready to install on a balanced turbine wheel as is.

 

[Will L.]

Some places say ues and others no. It seems people that build turbos say yes, parts sellers say no. Either one could be lying for profit.

Cost of balance wasted vs cost of new turbo and anything else the flying wheel pieces damage.

Gamble only if you are the house, the house always wins.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Some places say ues and others no. It seems people that build turbos say yes, parts sellers say no. Either one could be lying for profit.

Cost of balance wasted vs cost of new turbo and anything else the flying wheel pieces damage.

Gamble only if you are the house, the house always wins.

Its the consumer left to their own devices that must confirm if a turbine is balanced or not when installing a balanced compressor wheel that is just a bolt on affair. I had mentioned one builder/vendor that I have no affiliation with other than I've used their balanced turbo products.
It's great when you live in or near a large metro area so getting a turbine and wheel is not a big deal and usually you can wait for a price its when you are remote that you have to travel or use mail or delivery services and wait for your balancing to be done and returned....I live in the ass end of nowhere so everything is hurry up and wait so balanced turbines and wheels are a necessity for me.

 

[pacificdrumma]

Update on the new housing. I love it! Boost comes on more quickly as hoped, and there is a slight increase in boost on the top end as well. I get about 3-4psi at 2000rpm in normal driving, and 23-24psi on the top end vs 20-21 psi with the bigger housing. I reset the max temp. reading on my EGT gauge, and in the 2 weeks since the swap, the max temp I have seen is ~1025. I have only been able to crack 1000 by lugging it on the highway and not giving the truck enough pedal to downshift. Cruising at 75mph and roughly 2200rpm I get 5-6psi and about 700. So all in all, it runs great! I've put probably 800 miles on it since the swap and I'm very happy.