Is This a Good IP?

[Will L.]

@Rockabillyrat
Awesome. Didn’t know that. Probably will forget it due to my nature of ds4 hatin. Haha

@emmott
So if they take the S out of the fuel, ya want an S at the end of you part number!

Is there a designated change like that for the db pumps? Could it be so easy as the same thing?

 

[emmott]

Drove and met the seller. He had two new pumps, one had the pmd pulled, otherwise both looked identical.
Turns out he was a former mechanic from a GM dealership in the territories. He said they were new old stock from the dealer that he got once the time warranty periods expired for the 6.5’s. He no longer needed them since he owns a new duramax truck and is out of the 6.5’s.
I bought both for $600CAD ($450USD). I plan to get them both rebuilt at a local stanadyne authorized shop to the ulsd 5521S spec, hope to never need another pump after.

 

[Stoney]

@emmott. Nice score on the pumps!! I have a spare pump a buddy gave me...he had installed it on 3 different trucks that came into his shop with owners claiming they "knew for a fact there pump was bad.."". He'd put new pump in. No fix problem... he'd put there old pump in and put a new pmd on a extension harness and they were good to go...same pump used all three times. Total run time on it is like 5 hours... He said if they wanted to pay for the labor to change then rechange the pump then he was willing to take there money.... He HATES when customer says they know for a fact...then insiste he do what they say .... thinking of getting rid of it and going manual but not sure how hard it is to convert the truck

 

[NVW]

Drove and met the seller. He had two new pumps, one had the pmd pulled, otherwise both looked identical.
Turns out he was a former mechanic from a GM dealership in the territories. He said they were new old stock from the dealer that he got once the time warranty periods expired for the 6.5’s. He no longer needed them since he owns a new duramax truck and is out of the 6.5’s.
I bought both for $600CAD ($450USD). I plan to get them both rebuilt at a local stanadyne authorized shop to the ulsd 5521S spec, hope to never need another pump after.
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If it were me, I would just us them, those threads under the caps have never been used. Nice find.

Unlike the first new/unused pump which didn't have the caps at all.

 

[MrMarty51]

So, I guess if a person can find a DS pump produced after November of 2009, he then most likely will have one with the low friction components and it should be okay for the ULS diesel fuel.

 

[Will L.]

@emmott
If you know for sure you will use them both and not jump ship to different truck later, or could get your money back out of both after buying then paying to upgrade to -S parts, yup do them now and store them or run one now and store the other.

As to storing an ip that bas been used- ideally I would say flush out the diesel fuel with a straight 10 wt oil. We know what happens to fuel with ethanol or methanol in it and it sits in carburetors for a while. Seals dont do well, jets get plugged, etc. Same thing is gonna happen in the ip. Now, in the case of these two- it has already sat for that long so don’t change it now, any damage has already happened if it is going to happen. If you are just going to store it as is- then seal it up from outside corrosion and your done.
If you are going to pay for them to be gone through now- then do it and leave the testing fluid from the bench in it and seal them up.


Idk what method you guys use to store long term, but I learned a method from guys that had ultra rare and expensive parts planned for loooong term storage. Get a metal ammo can big enough for the part, the kind with the rubber seal. Buy a metal valve stem or a/c schrader valve. Drill a hole and mount the valve stem in as if to air up and pressurize the ammo can. Cosmoline spray or whatever is appropriate for the part being stored and put in the can. Two option now based on what is available to you.
1. With lid down but not sealed, use nitrogen hooked up through the valve stem to purge out all oxygen and moisture then close the lid.
2. Close and seal lid, Hook up a/c vacuum machine and suck out all the oxygen and moisture.

There is special made containers the military uses doing this but it is rare to find them at auction.

@Stoney
You probably heard me saw 100 times loose the ds4 and go db2. But right now your tight $ situation- don’t do anything not required. The possibility of buying a ds4 and pmds is huge part of the issue. Now that a guy can buy 1 lifetime warranty pmd, which I think you already did, and you have a known good spare ds4- stick with it until you loose the existing ds4 on the truck. If you can gather the other throttle pedal, cable, other parts for free for conversion- start gathering them, But don’t spend the $.
I wouldn’t buy a used db2- and who knows the condition of any used one. Obviously free and known good like the ds4 is ok. But you still need to control the transmission and that costs $$$.
Honestly you don’t know if 10,000 miles from now the crank snaps- so don’t spend on unknown until your income is solid again. A db2 is not going to save you money at this point, so bad investment. You could sell the pmds, app throttle, ds4s, yes but probably not enough to break even so I say run what ya have for now.
Once you have a few months expenses saved up, a car for the wife and a different truck for work while this one is down for rebuilding- yeah buy a new db2 snd trans controller or tcm to replace ecm. Etc.