Let my start from the beginning!, I got it from my buddy, it has been sitting a while. A couple of years. Long bed, with a 6.5 turbo 4x4! I would say a 9 out of 10! From the factory 1/2 ton don;'t ask me why? Cause i;'m shock also! Fuel assumption? Anyway , i need someone with a computer that can diagnose precisely! I have changed the pmd, its getting fuel at the T, i did the paper clip reading said glow plug relay circuit. Forget the code! I actually installed a ford solenoid to bypass the glow plug relay! I have replaced the oil sending unit, the fuel shut off switch, all of the relays and fuses, and pretty sure ive gone thru every ground wire! I am trying so hard to get this truck going for a reason! I am not proud of it but , i lost my drivers license 20 plus years ago! I can get them back in 2 weeks, obviously learned my lesson. Someone please help me please figure this Chevy out! Thank You, and god bless!
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Is there anyone in Missouri close to Salem? Need a 1995 6.5l diagnosed, no start!
- Thread starter Asmsalem
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Welcome.
Not sure if anyone here lives near there but we can walk ya through getting it running.
DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!!! If you have let us know.
How old is the fuel? If you haven’t yet- drain and chuck it all. Start with 5 gallons new diesel. Any diesel since year 2000 isn’t the real stuff that is good for decades.
Replace the fuel filter also.
Get some CLEAR line to replace the 6” long piece of 1/4” diameter return lime that comes out the front of the ip (injection pump). It is in an upside down “U”. You can get it from any hardware store and it lasts about 5 years. Best is buy a piece from fuelline.com as it is rated fuel line unlike the stuff from hardware stores.
Have someone crank engine and watch for bubbles in the clear line. One small trapped bubble is ok. Anything more than that or any contamination is a problem to solve first.
Once that is done, crack a few injector nuts and wiggle the metal line to know it’s not stuck sealed. Then crank engine and watch for fuel to spit out. It won’t be much.
You said replaced glow solenoid- fine. What about glow plugs? ONLY buy AC Delco 60G glow plugs. If you used the fluid, buy them again- they are toast and can destroy your engine. But this time remove all the plugs and crank engine. You should get fuel misting out all 8 holes. This is actually a preferred method of dealing with dry fuel systems. It definitely lets you know when fuel is getting where it needs to be and is easiest on your starter & batteries.
Cranking:
What rpm do you crank at- this is crucial for diesels- especially this one.
Cranking to keep from burning up starter:
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 MINUTES off
Make video & post on YouTube or similar- then add link here of it attempting to start is always good.
Not sure if anyone here lives near there but we can walk ya through getting it running.
DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!!! If you have let us know.
How old is the fuel? If you haven’t yet- drain and chuck it all. Start with 5 gallons new diesel. Any diesel since year 2000 isn’t the real stuff that is good for decades.
Replace the fuel filter also.
Get some CLEAR line to replace the 6” long piece of 1/4” diameter return lime that comes out the front of the ip (injection pump). It is in an upside down “U”. You can get it from any hardware store and it lasts about 5 years. Best is buy a piece from fuelline.com as it is rated fuel line unlike the stuff from hardware stores.
Have someone crank engine and watch for bubbles in the clear line. One small trapped bubble is ok. Anything more than that or any contamination is a problem to solve first.
Once that is done, crack a few injector nuts and wiggle the metal line to know it’s not stuck sealed. Then crank engine and watch for fuel to spit out. It won’t be much.
You said replaced glow solenoid- fine. What about glow plugs? ONLY buy AC Delco 60G glow plugs. If you used the fluid, buy them again- they are toast and can destroy your engine. But this time remove all the plugs and crank engine. You should get fuel misting out all 8 holes. This is actually a preferred method of dealing with dry fuel systems. It definitely lets you know when fuel is getting where it needs to be and is easiest on your starter & batteries.
Cranking:
What rpm do you crank at- this is crucial for diesels- especially this one.
Cranking to keep from burning up starter:
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 seconds off
30 seconds on
30 MINUTES off
Make video & post on YouTube or similar- then add link here of it attempting to start is always good.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum Asmsalem.
Follow Will Ls instructions in that exact order and You will be on the right track.
Once You have done those steps report back Your findings and if the truck is, or is not yet running.
When You have backed off the injector line nuts at the injectors, as many of them as You can get to, then I like to use the wrench and gently tap the injector line and when it wiggles that line is then unseated and capable of leaking that small amount of fuel.
If You get three or four that begins to spit fuel then the engine should be getting close to wanting to start. Tighten those lines back down that have spit fuel and repeat as each line begins to spit fuel.
Follow Will Ls instructions in that exact order and You will be on the right track.
Once You have done those steps report back Your findings and if the truck is, or is not yet running.
When You have backed off the injector line nuts at the injectors, as many of them as You can get to, then I like to use the wrench and gently tap the injector line and when it wiggles that line is then unseated and capable of leaking that small amount of fuel.
If You get three or four that begins to spit fuel then the engine should be getting close to wanting to start. Tighten those lines back down that have spit fuel and repeat as each line begins to spit fuel.
@Asmsalem welcome to TTS.. glad to have you join. And congratulations on getting your license back.. I lost mine for a number of years and it was a nightmare!! Whatever the mistake you made was , it's in the past, leave it there.. !!
I see Will and Marty have got started guiding you on your truck problem and others will join in too. I'm personally not as good of a mechanic as these guys are so ill leave it to them. They've guided me through how to fix tons of stuff .
The only thing I will say is any electronic stuff that you change make sure it says AC Delco on it.. DO NOT by store brands or anything else.. these trucks are extremely finicky about their electronics and they will burn up aftermarket store brand stuff pretty much immediately.. also you mentioned that you changed the PMD... Do not rely on the new one being good. I think every one of us on here have bought a PMD at one time and it wasn't any good.. make sure it is grounded before you crank that engine..
Again welcome to TTS we're glad to have you here we got a great bunch of guys on here for any discussion...
@ak diesel driver @dbrannon79 @WarWagon @DieselAmateur
I see Will and Marty have got started guiding you on your truck problem and others will join in too. I'm personally not as good of a mechanic as these guys are so ill leave it to them. They've guided me through how to fix tons of stuff .
The only thing I will say is any electronic stuff that you change make sure it says AC Delco on it.. DO NOT by store brands or anything else.. these trucks are extremely finicky about their electronics and they will burn up aftermarket store brand stuff pretty much immediately.. also you mentioned that you changed the PMD... Do not rely on the new one being good. I think every one of us on here have bought a PMD at one time and it wasn't any good.. make sure it is grounded before you crank that engine..
Again welcome to TTS we're glad to have you here we got a great bunch of guys on here for any discussion...
@ak diesel driver @dbrannon79 @WarWagon @DieselAmateur
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Welcome to the forum @Asmsalem glad to have you join. Will pretty well summed up what you need to start with. the clear return line off the IP is a must when diagnosing a no start condition. a couple of things to add. on the 95 systems the LP (lift pump) mounted on the frame will no prime fuel from the tank with the key on. newer ones will. you need to verify it's working and pumping. with the key in the on position, get you a positive lead wire and apply positive battery voltage to pin G of the PCM connector under the dash. you might need a buddy to look for fuel coming out of the top bleeder on the fuel filter cap. that is also how you prime and fill the fuel filter after a change.
one other thing to do is with the key on, use a test light to make sure you have both power and ground to the fuel shut-off solenoid (round cylinder looking thing a top of the IP) you also might need to remove it and make sure the plunger is not stuck from sitting. if you run the LP or while cranking and you see no fuel moving through the clear return line, most likely the shut-off solenoid is not allowing fuel to enter the IP.
take pics and videos to post as we can help you and see what were working on.
Here is a pic of the PCM connector pin out under the dash to help.
one other thing to do is with the key on, use a test light to make sure you have both power and ground to the fuel shut-off solenoid (round cylinder looking thing a top of the IP) you also might need to remove it and make sure the plunger is not stuck from sitting. if you run the LP or while cranking and you see no fuel moving through the clear return line, most likely the shut-off solenoid is not allowing fuel to enter the IP.
take pics and videos to post as we can help you and see what were working on.
Here is a pic of the PCM connector pin out under the dash to help.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
one other thing, for what it's worth, running a manual solenoid to run the glow plugs, if you are not running the delco 60G's powering them for too long will absolutely make them swell and burn up to the point it will cause you a major headache to get them out of the head without breaking off into the cylinder! I would recommend you put back the glow plug relay and get that working. vs burning up glow plugs. but lets get your rig to bark off and start first.