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Interior coolant leak.

??? So the screws you missed, could you have gotten them or did breaking the case save you from haing to pull all that stuff ??
If you would've read my post, it tells exactly where the bolts are against the firewall,one of them is up at least 2'' between the cover and firewall,you might be able to see it with a mirror and a flashlight.
But WTF do i care:rolleyes5:
 
??? So the screws you missed, could you have gotten them or did breaking the case save you from haing to pull all that stuff ??
Yeah, I could have gotten it had I taken about three more minutes to feel around for it. There was about a fingers width in there to guide a 7/32" deep socket on a 2" extention.
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Still it was one of those blind hit and miss efforts. I took it out so I could join the pieces back up prior to replacement. Had to quit on trying to get that one back in though...class A wench and I was getting frustrated.
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The new Heater Core from NAPA used 5/8" piping with one flared to accept the return hose which is 3/4". That being the case, I had to fill the gap left in the fire wall by the smaller diameter piping with calk. I replaced the spring clamps with the correct hose clamps.
Otherwise, road debris, water, fumes etc would be invading.
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I'm removing the carpet to lay down new insulation and sound proofing. I'll have the carpet cleaned in hopes of saving $150 ish and getting rid of the smell. In the mean time, I have an empty distilled water jug under the carpet with it positioned so that the hot air I'm pumping through the floor vents circulates under there and will help dry out the padding.

Yes Matt, it's an Oldie and I don't hesitate to haul lumber, dirt, sod or manure. I just like to keep it clean between beatings....which will continue until moral improves.

Big T. No problem on the missing links, so long as you're feeling better and survive the wife's wrath at giving her the gift that keeps on giving. Get Well Soon.
You too Great White, glad ya'll survived the incident.
 
But WTF do i care:rolleyes5:

:rof:
I did read your post and once I got under there it almost all became very clear (almost being the one I missed) and try as I might, I just couldn't re-read the post through three walls, two doors and a flight of stairs and once I was under there I wasn't coming out. I had the one in front, one on the right side, two on the left side and the one between the pipping all out and was wiggling the thing, had the core in sight and was figuring out how to get at it without removing the panel all together when it snapped. :eek: To be honest, it wasn't until the thing cracked that I remembered the part about the one in the back. My bad and I'll own the mistake.

But you're a prince of a fellow and I know that deep down inside you do care deeply and I appreciate it.:hihi:
 
If you would've read my post, it tells exactly where the bolts are against the firewall,one of them is up at least 2'' between the cover and firewall,you might be able to see it with a mirror and a flashlight.
But WTF do i care:rolleyes5:

I did but wasnt sure if you were talking about the same ones. Wanted that clarified. The pics he posted afterwards make more sense. I'm a kinda need pictures kinda guy...
 
I did read your post and once I got under there it almost all became very clear (almost being the one I missed) and try as I might, I just couldn't re-read the post through three walls, two doors and a flight of stairs and once I was under there I wasn't coming out. I had the one in front, one on the right side, two on the left side and the one between the pipping all out and was wiggling the thing, had the core in sight and was figuring out how to get at it without removing the panel all together when it snapped. :eek: To be honest, it wasn't until the thing cracked that I remembered the part about the one in the back. My bad and I'll own the mistake.

But you're a prince of a fellow and I know that deep down inside you do care deeply and I appreciate it.:hihi:

I think he meant it towards me.
 
Paveltolz, I went searching for my dash removal thread and I too could not find it. However, I did find pics in my "umm" album:

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The broken evaporator:
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Dryer that led to broken evaporator:
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I think he meant it towards me.
You are probably 100% correct but I couldn't help responding for the heck of it. Bison is good people, very direct, spot on and his advice/contributions are very welcome.

As for Pictures, I'm a picture kinda guy too. My answer to the condescending comment, "What, Do I have to draw a picture for ya?" is "Heck yes, two pictures if you can and add some arrows too."

The crap in the manuals like for this job that say, do this with reference to section 8C which referes you to section 10B etc. drives me nuts. Especially when it is only a matter of a half dozen hex head screws.
 
Paveltolz, I went searching for my dash removal thread and I too could not find it. However, I did find pics in my "umm" album

Thanks and al I can say is wow:eek: and :???:
Looks like a car wreck or some of the vehicles I see in the strip lots. Thanks for sharing though, I would have pulled the steering column all the way out but I see that you just dropped it. That was what, 4-6 bolts? I need to refere to section....:rolleyes5:

I'm tempted to ask how many hex head screws, bolts etc had to be removed prior to beging able to roll the dash back like that. But I see AK DD posted the 'missing link'


Thanks, I swear it didn't come up with a search of "Dash" with Big T as the author... I've bookmarked it for future reference though. Just in case.
 
Yeah that's the post. Maybe I couldn't find it because I really did not want to relive it. It wasn't a step-by-step how to thread with pics. Bunch of little screws not really conducive to that. The big deal is fully dropping the steering column which involves removing brackets and bolts holding it and the dash under it, plus fully removing the driver's seat. Then it's a juggle lifting the dash off the pins and dumping it down. I needed the wife's help doing this. I never really disconnected all the wiring, nor did I disarm the airbags like they say you should. I did disconnect the batteries. The big difference comes when you lift the dash off the side pins as opposed to just tilting it forward. That is the difference seen in the photos of the dash with the two different sized gaps at the firewall. The big gap provides all the room you need to work on everthing in that box. I also see that I noted that I could remove the heater core from underneath. So glad I'm done with that job.
 
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Hey Bison, you got any head mounts of the buffs?

Been working in Broomfield, CO and the Sportsman's Warehouse there has several cool buffalo head mounts. I was teasing the wife that I want one.

Also I took the wife to dinner at the Flagstaff House overlooking Boulder. Very high end restaurant. The wine list is on a iPad and prices go up to $20k a bottle. Notably they served a buffalo confit between courses and it was delicious. Dinner set me back the equivalent of a new set of Bosch injectors, but it was worth it.
 
Screw locations for removing heater core

I had the whole heater/a/c assembly out of a 91 in my shop today so, I thought I'd add a pic of the screw locations for removing the heater core. They have the big white marks by them. I have a couple 97 heater boxes somewhere that I could get pics of if anyone is interested.Bottom left is the coolant tubes ,top is floor heat duct.
 

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Wrap up

To finish this off. I covered the rest of the floor with RAAMaudio's BXT II panels and ordered the EVA sound mat and Heat reflecting insulated pad and waited for FedupEx to figure out their own tracking software...anyway, the rest of the material for the floor showed up today. I’m unimpressed with the “fitting” and the thickness. Suffice it to say the concern I had for the carpet fitting over the added sound dampening mat and the insulated ‘pad’ was unfounded. Sound mat wasn’t rubberized but more of a heavy tar paper. The insulation pad was maybe ¼” thick. Save your money honey and get something else.
It went in easy enough but it wasn’t form fitted in the least and holes for seats, seatbelts, 4x4 shift and console mounts had to be cut.
“Sound dampener went down first and then the heat reflecting “pad” with the shiny side down.
Once the carpet went in it was clear that getting it back into position was going to be a win – lose situation. I was able to get it in well enough to line up bolt holes, seat belts etc but it isn’t factory but I’m willing to bet I’m the only one that will really notice.
Now that it is all back together, it looks pretty good. Still needs a few trim pieces and a final vacuum but it’s too late tonight.
The drive to work will have to suffice for the first Sound Check as well. Should be interesting and I’m really hoping for positive results.
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Wouldn't you want the shiny side up? Or are you trying to keep the heat out?
 
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