• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Intercoolers: ATA,WTA and WMI What's Best?

mfgguru

mfgguru

Makin' it better!
Messages
359
Reaction score
7
Location
Winkler, MB, Canada
Just wondering if those who have some experience could all give input as to what results have been seen with each type of setup: Air to air intercooler, Water to Air intercooler and Water meth injection. I am interested to know the pros and cons of each and maybe the best applications for our individual situations.
What are the power advantages of each?
What do you use your truck for?
How about fuel economy?(we all need that!)
Anything else?

I personally do not have any type of intercooling setup and am getting ready to put one in. I am lean toward a custom ATA setup of the big auction site.
 
ATA:

Pros - virtually maintenance free, one time installation, only one fluid to cool
Cons - limited space to stuff in a decent sized one

WTA:

Pros - easily fitted (I have one), can be turned on or off, can use ice at a drag strip
Cons - lots of parts to it, two seperate cooling systems (water and air), uses an electric pump

WMI:

Pros - can use water and meth for performance boost, easily installed, 6.5 kits available at Heath
Cons - have to fill up the tank, tank takes up bed space (for the big one)
 
Don't forget that with WMI, it would be best to run only distilled water because of minerals and stuff in tap water that may result in deposits in the engine.
 
Last edited:
I'm sure there's got to be some filter out there you can put on your garden hose, but that's still got to cost a pretty penny.
 
Distilled Water is about 1.30 a Gallon up here.
As far as a filter for your hose, I doubt it, as most will not remove minerals. You could buy yourself a distiller, but they are pricey. Maybe a Reverse Osmosis would work? They are cheaper than Distillers, but still cost for install...
A UV filter kills bacteria, a Carbon filter (i.e. Brita) is mostly for taste, A string-wound will remove particles...
 
1 Gallon cof distilled at walmart was like 70 cents.... How long would 10 gallons last? and what about winter cons for WMI?
 
Most high school chem labs have industrial distillers... if you're gonna pay $1 a gallon for the stuff, go talk to the chem teacher. I bet he could use some money to buy neat stuff for the lab, and he would pour you distilled water at a much better price than what you could buy it for.
 
My story...
During last 10month I have "updated" Suburban with Marine injectors, EM chip, K&N air, 3" downpipe, took off cat & orig. muffler, BoostFooler (resistor), optical sensor adjustment... and finally it was time to cool IAT's. Well, I'm not towing, if it gets over +25C... it's hot here... :cheers2:

Pictures; http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/1351952/

I did check IAT's before and after (GMTDScan Tech), when driving ~65mph it was ~130F (outside 60F) and WOT it jumped over 180F.

Now with the cooler, 65mph it shows 85 to 90F... and with WOT it slowly rise to 110-120F. So, there's a BIG improvement... (outside temp about the same)

Cooler is from Cosworth 4x4 (Ford), size about 7" x 7" x 20" (2 1/2" pipes).
EGT's are 400-500F, never exceeded 600F (post turbo).

Ok, I know WTA would be better... but this ATA was simple to install. Just modifying pipes... enough simple for me :crazy:

Dyno run is next...
BR. kane
 
Last edited:
kane said:
...Ok, I know WTA would be better... but this ATA was simple to install...
Click to expand...

I don't know that WTA would be better. It seems as though ChrisK has identified some capacity issues with the WTA that can lead to bigger and better problems in making a WTA work properly.

For the bulk of the DIY'ers, I would say that ATA is the most logical choice.

Where ram-air speed is a problem (as in alcohol-burning SS tractors) then a WTA is definitely the preferred method and will yield much greater satisfaction.

Regards,
 
RCpullerdude said:
Don't forget that with WMI, it would be best to run only distilled water because of minerals and stuff in tap water that may result in deposits in the engine.
Click to expand...

Use premixed cheapy windshield washer fliud. 1.50 ish a gallon.

That has the meth and water mixed together.
 
Last edited:
well.. i'm thinking ATA setup, i got one old cooler from my friend, i think this is enough big for 6,5... :sifone: http://kojo.wippiespace.com/images/album/cooleri/
Tape measure is in centimeters, if you want inches divide numbers by 2,5
i'm not yet sure will that core come to mu burbs roof or trailer :sick: maybe i should find little smaller cooler if i cant put it in front of radiotor by transferring oil and trans coolers to some other place
 
I just went ATA after running WTA for about a year or so.

ATA is much better at lower IATs.

The downside to my experience is that the WTA core and heat exchanger were too small for the 6.5 so a bigger core and exchanger may make the WTA a viable option...

My WTA did cool the IATs, it just didn't cool as much as the big ATA does.
 
chrisk1500 said:
I just went ATA after running WTA for about a year or so.

ATA is much better at lower IATs.

The downside to my experience is that the WTA core and heat exchanger were too small for the 6.5 so a bigger core and exchanger may make the WTA a viable option...

My WTA did cool the IATs, it just didn't cool as much as the big ATA does.
Click to expand...

ATA .. Set it and forget it... Too much hassle with WTA.

Now you need W/M/ATA combo it up. Combine that with a fender vent directly adjacent the air filter.

Speaking of this subject, Heath said they were coming out with something worth waiting for, fresh air intake wise by end of July. Now its almost end of Auguest anyone have any insights to this?
 
I asked him a few weeks ago, and he said a couple weeks. So it should be coming out soon. I waiting to see how it is and how much before I decide to make my own.
 
kane said:
My story...
During last 10month I have "updated" Suburban with Marine injectors, EM chip, K&N air, 3" downpipe, took off cat & orig. muffler, BoostFooler (resistor), optical sensor adjustment... and finally it was time to cool IAT's. Well, I'm not towing, if it gets over +25C... it's hot here... :cheers2:

Pictures; http://kuvablogi.com/nayta/1351952/

I did check IAT's before and after (GMTDScan Tech), when driving ~65mph it was ~130F (outside 60F) and WOT it jumped over 180F.

Now with the cooler, 65mph it shows 85 to 90F... and with WOT it slowly rise to 110-120F. So, there's a BIG improvement... (outside temp about the same)

Cooler is from Cosworth 4x4 (Ford), size about 7" x 7" x 20" (2 1/2" pipes).
EGT's are 400-500F, never exceeded 600F (post turbo).

Ok, I know WTA would be better... but this ATA was simple to install. Just modifying pipes... enough simple for me :crazy:

Dyno run is next...
BR. kane
Click to expand...

Very nice install(although I don't speak whatever language the website was in). Question...With all that nice work why are you still running stock vaccuum system on the waste gate ? A turbomaster would be a nice upgrade.
I love your install. Very neat. Really like the skidplate for it. Nice job
 
Thanks! Hih.. finnish language is not difficult... there's just not any other country speaking finnish. Just us... 5 million people, size of small city in US :thumbsup:

Hmmm... I do have boost fooler (adjusted to 9 K Ohms) and EM chip... What would it change... I don't know how turbomaster differs/effects? Can you explain...?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top