Installing ARP Studs ???'s

[mangus580]

I will be installing ARP Studs this weekend, and have a question. What should I seal the studs with in the block? Hoping I can use something commonly found at the local parts store....

Also, should I just run the studs in hand tight? or should I double nut them and run them in snug like that?

Which studs on the passenger side do I have to put in with the head? (I presume these will be the bolts I cant get out without pulling the head first.)

I am so not looking forward to this project... I guess I can take solace in the fact that I just had most of that apart already, therefore it shouldnt be that hard!

 

[6.2 turbo]

I used high temp rtv on the threads,and installed all of them,and tighten them fairly snug with an allen wrench after the head was on. Some people use teflon paste,which is what ARP recommends.

 

[bk95td]

I used teflon tape and permatex 2 sealant. I pull the engine to do head gaskets.

 

[midniteplowboyy]

I used high temp permatex thread sealer on mine. The ARP studs have a allen head in the top to thread them down snug, not tight, just bottomed out.

Before lifting the heads off, take a stud and see which holes it wont drop into. IIRC, 2-3 on the pass side and 1 on the drivers side wont clear easily.

 

[bobbiemartin]

You should read this thread before you install them.

This is what I posted in the above thread:
I can tell you what I did. So far they are not leaking, but its early days. Anyway, I washed every stud in solvent, then rinsed in water and air dried them. I then washed them in dish soap and rinsed with water and air dried them - twice. There was no oil left on them when I was done. I also cleaned the block very well and chased every threaded hole with a tap. Another cleaning and blew out each hole with compressed air. So both stud and block were clean and oil free. I used GM thread sealer ($20+ a tube!) on the block end of every stud. Of course I used ARP lube on the nuts, washers and upper threads of the studs. Maybe a bit excessive, but I think the oil the studs ship with will not allow the sealer to seal to the stud, same with the block. You want clean metal for the sealer to bond to. At least, that's my opinion.

 

[Acesneights1]

This was on TTY's but i used aviation permatex. Good luck ever getting it off.

 

[mangus580]

bobbiemartin, do you have a part # for the GM thread sealer?

 

[bobbiemartin]

bobbiemartin, do you have a part # for the GM thread sealer?

12346004 its expensive, list price is $22.84 for 1.7 oz tube, but one is enough to do all the head studs. Seems to be good stuff though.

Oh by the way, hand tight on the studs. There is a small hex on the top for an allen wrench to help install them, no double nutting required.

 

[bobbiemartin]

And one more thing. My studs came with a packet of the new ARP Ultra Torque lube. They say its the bee's knees for fastener lube. That is what I used on the nuts and washers. You still use sealer on the block end of the studs! I torqued the studs per ARP specs, I can't remember what it was but an instruction sheet was packed with the studs.

 

[625fireman]

When I did mine I used the recommended permatex thread seal. I got it at Advanced Auto parts, but you should be able to find it just about anywhere I would think. As for running the studs in ...if the block is still in the truck you cannot put the studs in before the head goes on. I put the head gasket on, put the head on then installed the studs per torque order (no reason to really just OCD) I then torqued the studs to 10 lbs. ARP says put them in hand tight but I wanted to make sure they were down all the way. oing thru the head with them it is hard to tell for sure without something turning besides your fingers. The ones that will throw you off are the ones that go through the dowel pins the will go into the block farther than the others. And the back bottom 2 on the pass side are a real PITA. Good luck it not a bad job to do just takes time.