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I'm changing the water pump, engine pully and idler pully using OEM parts. Any tips?

Make sure you get the right parts...
If the AC compressor is on the passenger side you will need a dealer tesnioner. Auto parts stores stock the newer weaker spring unit for the later models, driver side compressor, and mistakenly cross reference it to the older ones. The diffrence is the AC compressor load going through the tensioner assy and slipping the belt with the weaker spring.
 
The OEM stuff is no better than aftermarket. Don't be suprprised if the bags the stuff comes in say Made in China or Made in Mexico.
 
If you are in that far do the timing chain and sprockets. They should be very loose with that many miles on them. I will only use cloyes timing sets; Melling is very loose right out of the box. cloyes is tight. I also had the factory anarobic sealer between the block and aluminum timing cover fail after just replacing the water pump. Put a gasket in it.
 
Acesneights1 said:
The OEM stuff is no better than aftermarket. Don't be suprprised if the bags the stuff comes in say Made in China or Made in Mexico.
Click to expand...

Better I give up on. I have seen those bags from the dealer. The right part the first time is all I want and the above is a scratch your head gotcha for the belt slipping and squawking when the compressor kicks in. Some parts are dealer items even with a local parts store listing.
 
New OEM water pump. Got the water pump kit as apposed to just the pump. The kIt comes with the gasket.

Installed Fluidamper, Cloyes Timing chain and gears a couple of years ago. Should have changed the water pump and crank pully then.

Actually I usually swapped the crank pullies when I do the gears and the Fluidamper. I had a pully left over on the shelf. Wonder what vehicle it went to? Oh, Maybe this one. Don't know why it didn't get put on.

I was wondering, Are you supposed to change the crank pully bolts when you change the pully?

I never have.

I'm getting a lot more into using the torque wrench for everything anymore.

For some reason I can't find a torque spec for the crankshaft pully in my books

What is the torque for the crank pully bolts?
I also heard 200 ft/lbs, not 100, thats a big difference. I'm gonna research this now. Brb.

Crankshaft:
Bearing Cap Inner Bolts:
Make Two Passes--55 (75)
Bearing Cap 12mm Outer Bolts:
Make Two Passes--48 (65)
Bearing Cap 10mm Outer Bolts:
Single Pass--30 (40)
Pulley Bolts--37 (50)
CKP Sensor--17 (23)
Harmonic Balancer Bolt--200 (270)

I've never torqued the bolts before either. I'm getting more into torqing things as I get older.

What sealant does everybody use?

I finally read the book and it said to use anaerobic sealer. I've always used RTV. No leaks and the last one was done at least 2 years ago.
 
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