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Ignition Switch

Silverado6.5td

Silverado6.5td

Diesel Powered Chevy
Messages
36
Reaction score
0
Location
Wetaskiwin, Alberta, Canada
Hello, I am new to this diesel forum and have learned allot by reading posts over the last 4-5 hours while my truck was plugged in and had a battery charger hooked up to it because it wouldn't start, although it has been parked for a few months and it is has been up to -40C around here, but only -18C today.

I was surprised when I went out and it started like it was +30C. I let it idle for about 45 minutes and then started out on a little drive and realized my vehicle registration expired on December 31/08 so I got back home right away.

Anyways, since I have owned this truck(about 2 years now) the ignition switch does not go back to the accessory position like any other vehicle. I thought it might be normal for a diesel truck so never did anything about it, but now I believe it is not normal.

Is my ignition switch buggered up? Do I need a new one? Any suggestions would be greetly appreciated.

Thanks
Rob
 
Welcome to the site! The ign. switch should behave like any other. Try spraying some WD-40 into the key slot and see if it frees it up. Leo
  • Edit: Nice to see another fellow Albertan here. It was a nice warm day wasn't it?
    :D
 
Wait, are you saying it stays in the "start" position? Or, does it jump back to the "run" position? There are 4 positions: Off-Acc-Run-Start.

Medicine Hat??? You "way north" guys are definitely an interesting bunch! :)
 
the actual ign sw is under dash, actuated by a rod from the keyswitch, bolted to the column. when I replaced mine I found I had to adjust the mounting for the key to be in the appropriate position. it was a pain to loosen and tighten those 2 bolts. sounds like a little adjusting is in order.
 
No, everything ahead of the "off" position on the keyswitch works just fine, the problem I am having is I cannot turn the key backwards to the accessory position if I wanted to listen to the radio without the truck running. I will try a little lubricant on it and if that doesn't work I will check the actual ignition switch for adjustment. If that don't work maybe it is time for a new key switch.

It is nice to drive the truck again and even nicer that diesel is less than a $1.00/litre or under $4.00/gallon which ever conversion you are familiar with. Either way, it is still too much. I was as high as $1.35/litre back in October, but I never really kept track of it since then because I was driving my 2001 Grand Prix which on Saturday the factory security system (passkey III) locked me out from running my car. It starts up fine and in a few seconds it shuts down. I guess the key has some sensor in it that when inserted into the ignition it sends a signal to a BCM modules that sends a signal to the PCM that if it accepts the signal it will allow the fuel pump to pump gas to run it.

I tried to do a relearn of the keys to the computer(PCM) as suggested by a GM mechanic friend, but it did not work. He said if it doesn't work I would need to put in a new PassKey III system which will be about $500 or more touch(thanks GM).

Aside from that the car has treated me very well and at least it didn't happen when I was in Medicine Hat.
 
Well, you got me wondering (I'm not at the truck right now). But, unless my memory is failing, there is no "turning the key backwards". It is off-acc-run-start as you turn the key forward.
 
The older trucks do have a 'backwards' position. My 94 does. You have to push in the little level to unlock the bolt (the same one used to remove the key) to get it back there. Not sure if your rig has that or not, though.
 
Every vehicle I've owned including the 98 in my sig. has the acess. backward position. Leo
 
I tried the lubricant with no success. I will try adjusting the ignition rod when I have a warmer place to do it. From the off position, the next position is the run position where the glow plug light comes on.
 
OK, you're right. I do have an acc position if I turn it backwards. However, I have to push in, first. I still have 3 positions past off, though. The first one doesn't do much, then there's the run and start positions like you are talking about. Sorry for the confusion.
 
On mine I have to go forward real fast, then back, and i can get it to work into ACC. Its an art. Can feel it all line up when it works. Hard to explain. Give it a shot, when it drops into acc it goes in easy.
 
Matt Bachand said:
On mine I have to go forward real fast, then back, and i can get it to work into ACC. Its an art. Can feel it all line up when it works. Hard to explain. Give it a shot, when it drops into acc it goes in easy.
Click to expand...



LOL


Way too funny....mine is the same way....definately an art to it....
 
Well, I tried the art of key manipulation and failed at that, neither method worked. I never was good at art though.

I have two keys for my truck and since I used the lubrication one key doesn't turn the cylinder any more and the other I have to use the art of key manipulation to get it to turn to start the truck. I am losing ground on this one.

Maybe it is time to put in a new cylinder, something I don't want to do. I also noticed the hazard switch doesn't work now either. Not sure when that screwed up as I never use it.

Maybe that is why I ain't any good at art, no time for it, gotta keep fixin' the wagon.
 
They all get like that as they get older, key cylinder is wearing out.
WD-40 is not good lubricant for that, you should use dry graphite.
But first you need the WD-40 out - get a can of electrical cleaner,
spray it in the lock good, wait about 15 minutes, spray it again and
let it sit a couple of hours to be sure it's all evaporated, then squirt
some dry graphite in there, and put a little on the key too.
To be honest, when they wear, the graphite might not cure it completely.
But it's worth a shot.
 
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